02-02-2009, 08:40 PM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: maple ridge
Posts: 627
| rear suspension work.
bent delrin links. turned the pinion WAY up!! new upper link mount. puts the rod ends horizontal. the delrin links are about 1/2 the weight of the threaded rod and brake line ones. i will be re doing the uppers with 1/4" delrin. right now they are 3/8" |
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02-02-2009, 09:00 PM | #2 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: orange county
Posts: 59
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You need to shorten those uppers by at least a quarter inch.... that will bring your pinion back down to earth!
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02-02-2009, 09:01 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: In the Dark Edges of your Mind
Posts: 6,386
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pinion up a little is good, but that may be a little much . You are going to make the new ones shorter right? And at flex, do your lowers hit the uppers? |
02-02-2009, 09:15 PM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Santee
Posts: 81
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Where did you get the upper links and mount?
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02-02-2009, 09:16 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: maple ridge
Posts: 627
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haha bring the pinion down??? your joking right? no. the arms will be the same length. they dont' hit when its flex'd. whats you rreasoning for wanting the pinion down? |
02-02-2009, 09:17 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: maple ridge
Posts: 627
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02-02-2009, 09:29 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: !! MOAB !!
Posts: 373
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No joke about the pinion angle. You will go through those nice mip shafts quick if you dont. You can bring it down so it points straight at the tranny output, then raise it only by a degree or two. any more than that, you will want to stock up on mip rebuild sets. trust us we have all been there before..
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02-02-2009, 09:43 PM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: maple ridge
Posts: 627
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i'll rebuild the shafts. good point. i'll let you knwo how long it lasts. |
02-03-2009, 12:09 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: centennial
Posts: 230
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your universals are gunna die....bring the pinion up to hide that drive shaft under the links but thats a littler excessive
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02-03-2009, 01:11 AM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: c-wood
Posts: 90
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i would serosly consider lowering that pinon a little i run the back pretty high(not as high as you) but not the front if you run your front pinion angle to steep it will cause handeling problems for instance when you are climbing that hard off caber line the tires will "push" and wash off the rock it is called ackerman angle look it up now on the other hand if you have clockable "c",s and you can get the steering arms as close to flat as posible (or a dagree or two forwad) would be best hope this rambiling helps ps dont be so stuburn its called constructive critism it is supposed to make you a better person/crawler |
02-03-2009, 02:05 AM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: East Mids, UK
Posts: 362
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Those are beefy links! I would definately bring the angle down, just to relieve the shafts! It looks good though.
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02-03-2009, 03:20 AM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Secret Crawl Location Deep In England
Posts: 546
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You could just turn the bracket that holds your top rods at the axle round the other way. That would bring it down a little. Matt |
02-03-2009, 04:30 AM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Fraggle Rock
Posts: 302
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I am new here. And the first thing I see is the driveshaft angle looks way off. I would think you are putting a lot of stress on the driveshaft. Does the front look like that? And if so, the steering has to be affected in a bad way. I would think.
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02-03-2009, 08:08 AM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Cen Cal
Posts: 148
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I see what he is trying to do.... I like it. Trying to keep the pinion out of the rocks is a great idea. And as far as the angle of the joint, it is no a high speed rig so as long as it is not binding on compression or droop it should be just fine. Sweet thinking.
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02-03-2009, 09:43 AM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned.
Posts: 2,011
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There's no dig unit, so I see backing up going forward over and over in his driving. Which spells disaster for the drivelines. That is way unneccessary. It will cause more trouble than it is attempting to fix, so what's the point? The front looks to be the same way too. Great way to kill a rigs parts and ruin steering.
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02-03-2009, 11:11 AM | #16 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: BC Canada
Posts: 69
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Gotta love the hobby guys beatin up on the "newbie" 1:1 guy. Kraqa -- I think you better look up ackerman, and castor and such. Evidently you have no idea what you are doing. :-P In fact you must have stolen that avatar pic of that buggy from someone and it can't be yours. Further if it was you must have bought it and couldn't possibly have built it yourself. Jeez people. Guys, he doesn't care about RC part distruction, only performance. So unless it blows up the first time he uses it... I wouldn't get all worked up about it, especially the newbs. Dude's been wheeling a looooooooonng time and learning stuff the hard way since the beginning. Let him try and then report back on how long it lasted. That way anyone who reads it can see if this also fits there needs or is just a waste of time/money etc... Last edited by DMC; 02-03-2009 at 11:21 AM. |
02-03-2009, 11:50 AM | #17 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maple Ridge, BC, CANADA
Posts: 592
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No big deal kris!! | |
02-03-2009, 11:59 AM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: West Seneca
Posts: 770
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How come his full size rig isnt set up the same way??
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02-03-2009, 12:24 PM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: maple ridge
Posts: 627
| Well. I’m not being stubborn. Its exactly the fact that I don’t’ care about breaking shit. I like playing with it to get the best performance. The drive shaft is level with the arms. My arms just have a stupid bend in them to get them as fart off the rocks as possible. My 1:1 isn’t set up that way because: -if you look I have rear steering and I want the caster to be at ZERO. -in a 1:1 you have oil in your dif and pointing the pinion up doesn’t oil that great. You over fill the dif to compensate but that doesn’t always work. -and my last rig Was set-up that way. Non rear steering dif. (PS lots of guys do this in the 1:1 world for comp only rigs, but with the introduction of XRRA and high speed rock racing they have gone away with this due to oiling issues and drive lien vibes. To the guy that was attempting to explain to me Ackerman angle, telling me to go look it up……I think you should do some more reading. I know what it is and unless your just confused or can’t explain your self in writing your wrong. It is the length and angle your steering arms are in relation to the plane in which your tire is mounted / rotates. Basically speaking, depending on what you do with your arms you can make the inner tire turn sharper to account for the smaller diameter turning radius of the inner tire. Although this is only really applicable to a vehicle with an open differential. With a locked dif it really doesn’t matter. If you look at the stock AX10 knuckles as well as the after market ones. The inner tires actually turns less then the outer one. I modded my aluminum ones to give me 0 Ackerman and they both turn at the same angle. And yes I have done a cut and turn on the front knuckles so no my CASTER is not super positive (forward) like all of you suspect. Thanks for the constructive criticism. |
02-03-2009, 12:48 PM | #20 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mission, BC
Posts: 101
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Your an idiot and dont know what your doing... Guys, dont talk to this guy about suspension and do's/dont's about it. He lives and breathes properly tuned suspensions. Also, his truck is mostly droop, so its not like the angle is going to get worse, its only going to get better as the suspension droops down. Keep it up Kris, your really gettin a hang of it. |
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