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06-08-2009, 10:41 PM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
| Help me turn my faller into a crawler UPDATED PICS ADDED 6-11-09
I recently purchased a RTR AX10, first mod was to install Traxxas Revo toe links for lower links, this did very well but was seemingly too long of a wheel base, Purchased every thing needed to make the suspension on my RTR the same as a ARTR or kit, So i now have Axial Green aluminum links and all the necessary hardware installed. Now how to make it crawl over rocks?, I have 7.5 ounces of lead wheel weights on each wheel. ( thats how i found out Oreilly auto parts sells a box of 30, 3 OZ strips for $25) I have not yet cut my foams as i am trying to figure out the best pattern to cut them into. I still have the stock RTR springs on it, 40wt shock oil. The torque twist is unbearable, but hoping that when i finally switch to lipo and mount the battery on the front axle that will be reduced. What follows are some pics of my rig the way i have it setup now. Please feel free to pick it apart and let me know what i am doing incorrectly. EDIT: I just ordered aluminum upper axle swivels because the plastic ones flex alot. that causes some serious rear drive shaft binding issues. I hope they will help stop the extreme pinion angle change that the rear axle exhibits under high loads. Thanks to the patient ones who will answer and not just post "DO A SEACRH". I have searched and havent come up with anything that completely answers my question. Sorry if the pics are huge ill fix them asap Last edited by brokeitagain; 06-11-2009 at 02:43 AM. |
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06-08-2009, 10:47 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Punta Gorda, Flo-rida
Posts: 453
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Here you go http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...temID=12001.72 that will help a bunch, save up for the lipo but buy this now.
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06-08-2009, 11:00 PM | #3 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
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There are little aluminum plates available that are required to attach these to front axle? i know i saw them before | |
06-08-2009, 11:00 PM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chula Vista
Posts: 971
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This is what I would recommend 1. 4 Link front and rear (TCS has a great set) 2. New Tires (Comp Claws. Panthers or HB Rovers) 3. Saddle Pack (TCS, Max Amps, CKRC or cheap battery are great places to go for batteries. You want saddle packs) 4. Losi 4" crawler shocks or the new Axial RTC Shocks 5. Left rear 60 wieght and the rest 35 weight oil in the shocks 6. Limiters on the pistons inside the shock. 7. New Servo. (Hitec 7955tg, 8711 or other 400+ servos. I would recommend getting a good servo the first time. Just my .02. Good Luck Star Cut the foams. When I first started out that's what I did. Another good thing is to inboard your lower links. This will help you in not caught on everything. Last edited by treday619; 06-08-2009 at 11:05 PM. |
06-08-2009, 11:10 PM | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
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OK im gonna go to Fast Lane Machine tomorrow, I know he has the center skid and motor plate i need to do the inboard lower links. I got the servo in the mail already, that was a given to get that crappy stock servo off there
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06-08-2009, 11:46 PM | #6 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 96
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I see you're using the Tekin ESC, so I'd go for 8 cell saddle packs. I run the 8cell Elite on my Axial and it works great. Lots of power and torque, but the equipment is still "cold" after an hour of crawling.
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06-09-2009, 05:27 AM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: I don't think theres rocks in Florida
Posts: 1,228
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you gotta get that battery off the top! its making it top heavy. I'm with treday619, take care of tires and change those 3 links into 4 links
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06-09-2009, 06:09 AM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: drillin Holes for the man
Posts: 2,736
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I would start with 4 linking it out back and inboarding the lowers. Then either 3s lipo or 8cell saddle packs on the front axle. Then get yourself some new shocks. (Losi, the new axial's, and Traxxas big bores are all good) Oh and flip the trans arround so the motor is on the right side. You will need to flip the motor leads as well. That should get you crawling pretty well. Oh and don't cut your stock foams. Just get new tires. I would suggest either Panthers, Hot body rovers, or the new Losi comp claws.
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06-09-2009, 05:49 PM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
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well heres what i got today i am installing it now |
06-09-2009, 06:38 PM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Behind the wheel
Posts: 1,107
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Sweet. Why would you swap the motor around? TT?
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06-09-2009, 06:43 PM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
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i read the mirriored tranny doesnt do much to counter TT
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06-10-2009, 08:20 AM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: drillin Holes for the man
Posts: 2,736
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I am not talking about a mirrored trans. I am saying turn the intire trans arround 180 degrees's. The motor will be on the right side instead of the left side. This will help reduce your torque twist some as the side that is lifting will now have the weight of the motor on it. |
06-10-2009, 06:28 PM | #13 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
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i have done the trans flip, i think its more a suspension issue, mine was an RTR and has the extra hard spirings on it. Now that i have the battery on the rear axle there isnt any weight on the chassis to keep it from lifting the right front tire during a climb. Getting it to shift weight onto that tire is more difficult now, thinking of trying Traxxas Tmaxx springs since i have a few spares from my recent tmaxx build. i also need to limit some of the suspension down travel with spacers in the shocks, as it is now it sits way too high and causes the FLM drive shafts to bind when driving on flat ground. no real biggie the chassis is too high anyway, i guesstimate about 3.25'' of belly clearance.
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06-10-2009, 08:15 PM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: here
Posts: 109
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Pics, pics we need more pics! I am curious about the chassis. Is it a Hot-Racing chassis? I just built a crawler using a Hot-Racing chassis and really like the performance over the stock AX10 kit. Good luck with the transformation and build of your crawler. I'll bet it will crawl most anywhere. |
06-10-2009, 09:20 PM | #15 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Prescott Valley
Posts: 189
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I have an rtr and the springs were the issue with weight shifting wrong. Check out my thread "Think springs make a difrence?" and you can see pictures.
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06-10-2009, 10:21 PM | #16 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Portland
Posts: 550
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What I suggest is buying my panthers with axial foam. PM me if you want them. Dont want to get the mods mad for selling in the non classifieds. Also just practice and tweak your setup until it works the way you want. Hope this helps
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06-10-2009, 10:30 PM | #17 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chula Vista
Posts: 971
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Get some fuel tubing in the shocks. This will help lower your rig and also help your drive shafts from rubbing. I would recommend getting the Losi 4" Springs (Red front whites back) or upgrading to 4" Losi Shocks. | |
06-10-2009, 10:37 PM | #18 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chula Vista
Posts: 971
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06-11-2009, 12:03 AM | #19 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Union
Posts: 99
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the chassis is a SPV-2 from FLM im trying to get pics up but photobucket is down for some reason The new rear mount battery plate, this was a massive improvement Last edited by brokeitagain; 06-11-2009 at 02:27 AM. |
06-11-2009, 11:32 AM | #20 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: drillin Holes for the man
Posts: 2,736
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your trans isn't turned arround. You need to flip the trans and skid 180 degrees. That and turn your upper links into 4 links and mount them on the plates you already have installed. |
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