RCCrawler Forums

es79 · 03-29-2010, 08:24 PM

I have taken the Manta Chassis that was available for printing, took some dimensions from the print, modified it and now I need to know if I'm going in the right direction as far as my design. Take a look at the picture, give me suggestions, feedback what ever you can offer. Thanks in advance.

*UPDATED TO REFLECT SUGGESTIONS* 3.31.2010

version 1 (not legal)

Duuuuuuuude · 03-29-2010, 08:57 PM

The top and bottom could be thinner...you've got it at 12mm if I have it right.

What material are you going to be using?

Are you going to comp with it?

monkeyracer · 03-29-2010, 09:42 PM

You are headed in the right direction, but if you are going to comp with it, at least in any USRCCA sanctioned events, you'll need to make it a bit taller. 77.96mm is only 3.069" where the minimum is 3.75" (95.25mm)

As Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude said, you could go a little thinner than 12.7mm (.5"), I like .375" but even .25" will work with proper bracing, but this all depends on what material you use. Lexan, Delrin, and Aluminum are all popular materials, and will depend on what you have available to you.

Also, how are you cutting it? Mill? Waterjet? Laserjet? Dremel? I ask because certain lines or curves will be hard to cut by hand.

As far as the rest of the design is concerned, your link placement and shock holes seem strange, you've got about a million holes for the rear, but only a few for the front. Also, what are all the holes along the roof for? All the holes are not necessarily a bad thing, but having options allows you more flexibility to tune and tweak your links and shock mounts to find what works best for you. However, the more holes you have, the longer machine time, or longer drill press time.

Keep tweaking and adjusting the design, but again, you're headed in the right direction.

I've gone through easily 100 variations of a bodiless chassis design and am still making slight adjustments to make it perfect.

es79 · 03-29-2010, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

The top and bottom could be thinner...you've got it at 12mm if I have it right.

What material are you going to be using?

Are you going to comp with it?

carbon, i work in at a carbon fiber shop, and it's easier for me to cut at home on the back patio.

and yeah, you have it right, 12mm(1/2")

Duuuuuuuude · 03-29-2010, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by es79

carbon, i work in at a carbon fiber shop, and it's easier for me to cut at home on the back patio.

and yeah, you have it right, 12mm(1/2")

How thick is the cf?

Personally, I wouldn't use cf. Yeah, it'd look cool, but once you start beating it on the rocks its going to go to hell pretty quickly.

You could do polished aluminum side plates with cf roof, hood, and side panels...that would look pretty badass.

Like monkeyracer said, if you're going to comp you're going to need to adjust its dimensions. 3.75" tall with at least 1" of that being the "cab" section, meaning the cab needs to be 1" above the lowest part of the hood.

es79 · 03-29-2010, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

You are headed in the right direction, but if you are going to comp with it, at least in any USRCCA sanctioned events, you'll need to make it a bit taller. 77.96mm is only 3.069" where the minimum is 3.75" (95.25mm)

As Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude said, you could go a little thinner than 12.7mm (.5"), I like .375" but even .25" will work with proper bracing, but this all depends on what material you use. Lexan, Delrin, and Aluminum are all popular materials, and will depend on what you have available to you.

Also, how are you cutting it? Mill? Waterjet? Laserjet? Dremel? I ask because certain lines or curves will be hard to cut by hand.

As far as the rest of the design is concerned, your link placement and shock holes seem strange, you've got about a million holes for the rear, but only a few for the front. Also, what are all the holes along the roof for? All the holes are not necessarily a bad thing, but having options allows you more flexibility to tune and tweak your links and shock mounts to find what works best for you. However, the more holes you have, the longer machine time, or longer drill press time.

Keep tweaking and adjusting the design, but again, you're headed in the right direction.

I've gone through easily 100 variations of a bodiless chassis design and am still making slight adjustments to make it perfect.

yeah, I know my holes are a little funny, lol. I don't really know what would be good, so I may just leave them undrilled till I'm ready for that.

the material will be carbon, and I will hand cut it, I do it everyday so no issue there, I can cut most anything by hand. Drill press, lol no I will have to go to the shop for that unless I can drill them both at the same time, which I don't mind doing.

the height measurment that means at some point i have to reach that 3.75" doesn't mean the entire top right?

I am more worried about the length getting too long? maybe not, that can be over come with shock, links right...

thanks for replying.

es79 · 03-29-2010, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

How thick is the cf?

Personally, I wouldn't use cf. Yeah, it'd look cool, but once you start beating it on the rocks its going to go to hell pretty quickly.

You could do polished aluminum side plates with cf roof, hood, and side panels...that would look pretty badass.

Like monkeyracer said, if you're going to comp you're going to need to adjust its dimensions. 3.75" tall with at least 1" of that being the "cab" section, meaning the cab needs to be 1" above the lowest part of the hood.

ok, yeah I knew you were gonna say that about carbon. and that also answered my question about how much of the thing had to be at 3.75"

you are correct about looking badass with aluminum and carbon. as far as how thick i have like .060 stuff right now sitting in front of me, but I was thinking of making some .070 or .090 stuff with some uni-carbon(straight no weave) in it going length wise, which would make it nearly indestructible in head on collisions. I also could do it with hybrid(carbon kevlar mix).

maybe you are right, the more I think about it maybe aluminum would be better....

Duuuuuuuude · 03-29-2010, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by es79

maybe you are right, the more I think about it maybe aluminum would be better....

Don't let me stop you from making it out of cf. It would look awesome if done right, but I think you'll have issues once you start running it. If you have it readily available and have the time, go for it. I think we'd like to see it.

es79 · 03-29-2010, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Don't let me stop you from making it out of cf. It would look awesome if done right, but I think you'll have issues once you start running it. If you have it readily available and have the time, go for it. I think we'd like to see it.

what the hell, I'm up for it....i am making some adjustments, and I will post the changes to see what you all think...

monkeyracer · 03-30-2010, 07:48 AM

CF will be ok, but since there is no body protecting it, it will get some scratches, as long as you seal all your edges and keep up with it as it gets scratched (to prevent delamination) you'll be fine with CF. It's more abrasion than impact that you will be worried about, but impacts will happen in all directions, so you'll need the cross weave type.

I think it would look badass with white delrin and CF hood, roof, and side panels though... I'd lean towards .07 or .09 CF, the .06 may be a little too flexible, depending on what resin is used with it.

Heres a few threads of mine that may help with some of the same things I learned throughout the process:

My new chassis design - bodyless tvp design.

My Chameleon Bodiless Chassis Build

My new build - Karnage Bodiless Comp Crawler

And my thread in the rules section about the 2010 bodiless rules:

2010 Bodiless Rules Questions

Hope those threads help!

es79 · 03-30-2010, 10:48 PM

monkey, i fully understand Carbon and its downfalls I assemble and repair the Daytona Prototype cars and perfect example is after the 24hr race at Daytona, the car looks like it was sandblasted because it literally was from all the sand on the track. The panel i was thinking of making would have both uni and normal 2x2 twill, and the stuff I will be using is prepreg, aircraft quality, the panel would be isotropic so to be flat straight and very strong in all directions.

You did a very nice job on your chassis, those threads have a lot of useful info in them, thanks for sharing. Tell me what you think of the updated design. If I am understanding the rules then it should be perfectly legal?? I'm still reading your questions about the rules there are a lot there that was confusing to me as well.

Duuuuuuuude · 03-30-2010, 11:01 PM

It needs more holes.

es79 · 03-30-2010, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

It needs more holes.

oh, yeah I know, I just wanted to show what I changed to.

Duuuuuuuude · 03-30-2010, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by es79

oh, yeah I know, I just wanted to show what I changed to.

'k. Looks more comp worthy.

monkeyracer · 03-31-2010, 07:24 AM

Looking better, but it's reeeeeaaaaaaallly long, shorten it up some. I know it's going on an axial, and not a MOA rig, but at 12.5" long, you will probably have the servo and/or something from the axle get in the way of the chassis during suspension flex.

My first design was 10.25" long, and it worked ok for an AX10, but my new design goes right down to the legal limit of 8", which leaves plenty of space for MOA motors down the road. For this chassis though, I'd shoot for between 10" and 10.5" at least to see where the design goes.

03-29-2010, 08:24 PM	#1
es79 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Race City(Mooresville) Posts: 94	Need Custom Chassis Design Assistance. I have taken the Manta Chassis that was available for printing, took some dimensions from the print, modified it and now I need to know if I'm going in the right direction as far as my design. Take a look at the picture, give me suggestions, feedback what ever you can offer. Thanks in advance. UPDATED TO REFLECT SUGGESTIONS 3.31.2010 version 1 (not legal) Last edited by es79; 03-30-2010 at 10:26 PM. Reason: updated drawing

03-29-2010, 08:57 PM	#2
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	The top and bottom could be thinner...you've got it at 12mm if I have it right. What material are you going to be using? Are you going to comp with it?

03-29-2010, 09:42 PM	#3
monkeyracer I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden Posts: 2,588	You are headed in the right direction, but if you are going to comp with it, at least in any USRCCA sanctioned events, you'll need to make it a bit taller. 77.96mm is only 3.069" where the minimum is 3.75" (95.25mm) As Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude said, you could go a little thinner than 12.7mm (.5"), I like .375" but even .25" will work with proper bracing, but this all depends on what material you use. Lexan, Delrin, and Aluminum are all popular materials, and will depend on what you have available to you. Also, how are you cutting it? Mill? Waterjet? Laserjet? Dremel? I ask because certain lines or curves will be hard to cut by hand. As far as the rest of the design is concerned, your link placement and shock holes seem strange, you've got about a million holes for the rear, but only a few for the front. Also, what are all the holes along the roof for? All the holes are not necessarily a bad thing, but having options allows you more flexibility to tune and tweak your links and shock mounts to find what works best for you. However, the more holes you have, the longer machine time, or longer drill press time. Keep tweaking and adjusting the design, but again, you're headed in the right direction. I've gone through easily 100 variations of a bodiless chassis design and am still making slight adjustments to make it perfect.

03-30-2010, 07:48 AM	#10
monkeyracer I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden Posts: 2,588	CF will be ok, but since there is no body protecting it, it will get some scratches, as long as you seal all your edges and keep up with it as it gets scratched (to prevent delamination) you'll be fine with CF. It's more abrasion than impact that you will be worried about, but impacts will happen in all directions, so you'll need the cross weave type. I think it would look badass with white delrin and CF hood, roof, and side panels though... I'd lean towards .07 or .09 CF, the .06 may be a little too flexible, depending on what resin is used with it. Heres a few threads of mine that may help with some of the same things I learned throughout the process: My new chassis design - bodyless tvp design. My Chameleon Bodiless Chassis Build My new build - Karnage Bodiless Comp Crawler And my thread in the rules section about the 2010 bodiless rules: 2010 Bodiless Rules Questions Hope those threads help!

03-30-2010, 10:48 PM	#11
es79 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Race City(Mooresville) Posts: 94	monkey, i fully understand Carbon and its downfalls I assemble and repair the Daytona Prototype cars and perfect example is after the 24hr race at Daytona, the car looks like it was sandblasted because it literally was from all the sand on the track. The panel i was thinking of making would have both uni and normal 2x2 twill, and the stuff I will be using is prepreg, aircraft quality, the panel would be isotropic so to be flat straight and very strong in all directions. You did a very nice job on your chassis, those threads have a lot of useful info in them, thanks for sharing. Tell me what you think of the updated design. If I am understanding the rules then it should be perfectly legal?? I'm still reading your questions about the rules there are a lot there that was confusing to me as well.

03-30-2010, 11:01 PM	#12
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	It needs more holes.

03-31-2010, 07:24 AM	#15
monkeyracer I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden Posts: 2,588	Looking better, but it's reeeeeaaaaaaallly long, shorten it up some. I know it's going on an axial, and not a MOA rig, but at 12.5" long, you will probably have the servo and/or something from the axle get in the way of the chassis during suspension flex. My first design was 10.25" long, and it worked ok for an AX10, but my new design goes right down to the legal limit of 8", which leaves plenty of space for MOA motors down the road. For this chassis though, I'd shoot for between 10" and 10.5" at least to see where the design goes.

Sponsored Links

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Need Custom Chassis Design Assistance.