Cliffhanger's FF-4 build
 

So i started to build mine FF-4.
Got a question for DickyT:

I'm starting making mine links today and wondering if you have any pictures of yours rig i saw the revision 2 pictures and noticed that you have the stering servo facing inside the rig how do you manage to steer both sides?

Also where i can buy the shock mounts for rear axle?

And what are yours final lenghts for the links?

Thanks man if you can post some pictures that will be great thanks cheers."thumbsup"

Hera are some pictures.Will put links together today and the FF-4 chassis and decided to go with Big bore shock since i'll take the of my Slash,need to convert front ones to xxl long shock body which i got yestrday.Hopping to by done soon."thumbsup""thumbsup"

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/IMG_9758.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/IMG_9760.jpg

DickyT is at, "Nationals"...:)

Here's your "Razors"
http://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDetai...01044&CartID=2

You can also buy at Vanquish Products.
http://www.vanquishproducts.com/vp-s...nt-razors.html

You'll also have to cut front servo plate to run a BTA.
I'm sure some one will chime in. Good luck.

Did some more work today did the delrin rods and drill holes using Doug's bushings and they work like a charm(if u need some follow this link http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tools-supplies/150200-link-drill-bushing.html)
Next will be to build shocks and then i'll go onto top links.

Any one knows how to measure top links?What's the proper procedure when making top links?

Also what shock oil to use40 all around?and which spring are the best for big bores?(made by who?part number?)

Will apriciate anyones input this is my very first crawler so there is always ? in the air

Also which shock position is the best and which hole for top and bottom in the front and rear?

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/IMG_9762.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/IMG_9770.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/IMG_9772.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/IMG_9771.jpg

Your acetal rods look long and slender. Don't they flex?

they flex little they are short so they are a bit stiffer compare to full length 4'

The front one are 4 1/4" from middle of the eye to middle of the eye on other side of the link and rear is 5 1/16" from middle to middle of eye

Looking good so far, but your chassis is backwards...the long ends go towards the rear.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17.../ff-4-side.jpg

almost done
 

build shocks today,put them on now i just need to build upper link anyone can help me out how do i messure them and from where to where?Thanks a lot

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9784.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9786.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9788.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9789.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9778.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9778.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9779.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9780.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9781.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9782.jpghttp://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9783.jpg

i rebuiled shocks and put in 25 oil all around.

Well, this is how I do mine:

I take two things into consideration when measuring out upper link length:

1. Pinion angle throughout the travel range of the axle.

2. The link mounting positions on the chassis and axle that I have chosen to use.


Narly1

What you mean by Pinion angle throughout the travel range of the axle ?

He means so it doesn't bind when the suspension moves. That can happen if its to extreme, I (personally) like to run mine in a near straight line up to the transmission since it "tends" to work better and not get hung up as much. That said, just do it by eye and go from there "thumbsup" Remember to "measure twice, cut one" ;-)

I like to aim my rear driveshaft straight at the transmission, or just a bit higher. Once you have it set, measure the distance from your rear axle link mounting location to the upper link mounts on the chassis...I like to use dividers for this. That will be your rear upper link mount length.

The front is a bit more complicated, since your pinion angle will also effect your caster. For this, I suggest setting your caster angled back just a bit. Then measure again for your front upper lengths. The front lengths can be adjusted to change your caster angle as you start to figure out how you want your truck to steer...part of the tuning process that everyone enjoys so much "thumbsup"

I forgot to mention that negative caster helps with steering (say -8-10*) I have had good results with the "axle tubes" that KC Jones is making, they are handy since you can clock to any position. Also the axial aluminum c's help, they are tougher ;-). Other slight advantage of clocking the knuckles up is that the front "draglink" or "tierod" is less likely to bang into the rocks which is handy so you don't need a huge fancy BTA setup ;-)

so i build my upper link today i'm using VP plates for front and rear so for front 2.669" long(from eye to eye) and monted on front row on VP plate by the center and 3 hole on the frame from the bottom of the chassis.

Rear ones ar 3.648" long and they are monted on front row by the center and on the frame 2 hole from the bottom of the chassis.

The same link positions on the frame as DickyT's hope that i saw good in those pictures.

Can't wait to take it for spin :o)

Is those links appropiate length or I'm way off?
Need to buy some screws to attach them then i'll post some pictures tomorrow.

Build done
 

I have finnished build now i have to put some electronics in place!
I used in this build:
VP rear plate
VP servo/battery plate
Delrin from McMaster Carr 1/4" part#8497K133
5/16" part#8497K153
Doug's bushings
Traxxas Revo large rod ends part# TRA 5347
RC4WD 4mmx20mm set screws

remain to install
Tekin FX-R & 55T motor
spectrum SR3500
Tunder power lipo

and here are some final pictures

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9800.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9799.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9798.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9797.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9796.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9793.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9792.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9791.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...3/IMG_9790.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/IMG_9801.jpg

Looks good, but those upper links are too short, your pinion angle on the axles is very steep and may cause some binding. Try to get the center shafts as straight as possible, no hard angles at the axle. If you look in my FF-4 thread there are photos that show how straight my center shafts are.

For the front you will need to clock your C's back or the positive caster will give little steering on climbs.

ok thanks so u mean the longer the upper links are the more they will push onto frame so theaxle will get straigter(more in level with the ground)?

And how do i clock the C's?

Pretty wide angle on the uppers also, looks like your close to maxing out the travel on the rod end ball at the chassis. I'd lower that chassis mounting point down one or two holes also.

Don't look at my FF-4 thread, you'll go crazy.

You need to get the clockable C's to do it. I have the Axial ones on my rig, and gunnar is right, do not use his build as an example, it may may your brain do flips, it did mine.

Ok so i tried to do upper link biger by udjusting rodends and deepness off the set screw and what i find out is tha if i make rods longer both plates front and rear are turning(angling) towords ground.So i don't know if making them longer would be a solution.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks