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08-29-2010, 01:46 PM
| #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Stewartstown
Posts: 85
|  Home made 4 link with axial BTA kit
Does anyone see a problem with this? as in will it work and not break its 1/8" |
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08-29-2010, 02:38 PM
| #2 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Sedro Woolley
Posts: 440
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sure but all i see is a little red x in a box LOL!! can you repost the pics
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08-29-2010, 04:38 PM
| #3 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Stewartstown
Posts: 85
|    can u see them now |
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08-29-2010, 04:45 PM
| #4 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Lawrence
Posts: 31
| Quote:
Yes | |
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08-29-2010, 04:49 PM
| #5 |
| Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave   Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
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Looks like you just added a plate on top of the Axial BTA plate. It will work, but a neater way to do it would be to add a small plate under the Axial one, and use a few flat heads to secure it, providing you have some room for the tierod of course.
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08-29-2010, 04:56 PM
| #6 |
| No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
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Only time and testing will tell, but you seem to have quite a bit of leverage working against those mounting screws. Post up some updates...I'd be interested in seeing how this works.
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08-29-2010, 05:34 PM
| #7 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Alcobaça, Leiria, Portugal
Posts: 195
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if it work that's great! good work  |
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08-29-2010, 05:51 PM
| #8 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Stewartstown
Posts: 85
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i would put it underneath the axial plate but the tierod would be close to hitting and i have the screws from the servo mounts in the way i wouldnt be able to make it as big as i did and i thought that would take away from its strength. it does seem suprisingly sturdy tho i have done about 30 mins of crawling and it seems to work great and helped a lot. i just hope it doesnt eventually get weak and the right side/tab break off
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08-29-2010, 05:58 PM
| #9 |
| Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
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If the plate was smaller, and the screws attaching it were closer to the link mounts, it would be strong. It could be shaped to stay away from your servo mount screws-or you could use that screw to help attach it also(countersunk). You could also shorten the axle housing posts 1/8" and attach there too. Seems like you have enough fab experience to figure it all out, after all..you made the plate  |
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10-29-2010, 10:57 AM
| #10 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: sweethome
Posts: 452
| Hum
I would just get a hold of Don at bwd and get one of his mounts and hav hom make you a drag linc.it will look sweet and the longer arm will help your sterring and servo.But that should work.
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10-29-2010, 05:09 PM
| #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: McKinney
Posts: 344
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I used the servo/battery tray...not sure how it compares to a BTA tray. In any case, this was the solution RickM set me up with. Drill one countersunk hole in the back center of the plate. Then take a piece of raw plastic/delrin/whatever, and make a rectangular block, for one screw in the verticle (to the plate), and the other horizontal (for the links).  Just a thought. If your system is working for you, no problems. But I think if you ask others here, there are more elegant/simplistic means. |
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10-29-2010, 08:22 PM
| #12 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,848
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You know of all the shade tree work I have done, that one is probably the one (maybe the only one) I am proud of!! Thanks for the credit on this. Now if you could have all seen my plate for my rear upper link I had made. You would have thought I had fabbed it together with a pocket knife and a hammer.
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