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02-11-2011, 12:53 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
| B1G's Axial AX10 Scorpion
Hi all, New to the site and wanted to share my latest purchase with you all. What I believe I have here is a competition level Axial AX10 Scorpion Pro-Kit (part # AX90001) which includes:
I then bolted on the following parts / upgrades:
Upgrades and Spare parts picture: Bit of a random assortment of spares, some I have been able to use, some are just stock and have been added to the stock parts pile, the others still have me confused about how to install them, for example the alloy 3-links, looks like I have to take the axles apart which I don't really want to do In my opinion the ESC / Motor combination is what makes this so special, the precision of the Novak GOAT Crawler kit is just unbelievable, I've only driven the AX10 around the house so far but plan on taking it outside in the snow / ice a little later today. As far as the body goes, I threw on this smaller scale Hummer body: Which will do for the moment, I will be spraying it black and I think once done it will look pretty decent. |
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02-11-2011, 01:09 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Farmington
Posts: 142
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Nice rig other then the huge battery mounted on top. You really need a smaller pack that you can fit on top of your front axle. Might as well upgrade to lipo while your at it. |
02-11-2011, 01:18 PM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 596
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yea get that huge battery off the top of the truck, then toss a litttle lipo on the frotn axle and itll be a WORLD of difference.
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02-11-2011, 01:19 PM | #4 | |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
| Quote:
I have the CF plate for the front axle that moves the servo over and allows you to mount a lipo pack when money allows I'll get the few extra pieces I need for the servo move and go lipo, the stick is all I've got at the moment I want to install the rear steer pieces also.... | |
02-11-2011, 01:39 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 445
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Looks good, I like that chassis but I'm kind of a sucker for C/F. I would suggest also inboarding the lower links and of course the already mentioned Lipo. I just (2 days ago) switched from NiMh to Lipo and cannot believe the difference, It's an amazing upgrade when you can go for it.
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02-11-2011, 01:52 PM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
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02-11-2011, 02:40 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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get some tire, id suggest rovers. you'll see a huge gain in preformance from the rock lizzards, they suck!
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02-11-2011, 03:20 PM | #8 | |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
| Quote:
I keeping loosing the bedlocks, repositioning the tires and tightening the beadlocks, works for a few minutes but then they start letting area in. I can use the same wheels right? Just get some 2.2 tires?? | |
02-11-2011, 07:16 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 445
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You could always cut or drill a small hole on opposing side of the tires, right in the center of the tire. Always it to breath alot better. Also by inboarding the lower links I meant moving them to the inside of the chassis instead of having them outside were they can grab things your crawling over.
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02-12-2011, 01:04 PM | #10 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Augsburg
Posts: 17
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Yup, move the lower links inboard, your STRC skid plate has a holding fixture for them. Compare the two skid plates and you'll get it Remove the body posts on the side, mount the body on top. Get some new tires, HB Sedona, Panther Leopard, Panther Cougar, Losi Boss Claws... You'll believe you have another car Get some MIP center drives, the stock ones will capitulate to the goat sooner or later Then you can get some Felsenfest spools, cvd's and knuckles - you'll get a superb steering angle! So long, Martin |
02-13-2011, 11:57 AM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
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OK so for this inboarding to work it looks like I have to move the links to the other side of the shocks, than attach them to the cut outs in the chassis plate, seems simple enough - I just need to check that I have some slightly longer screws as ill need to use a nut to secure the links in place.
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02-13-2011, 03:04 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine
Posts: 400
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INTEGY parts DETECTED |
02-15-2011, 12:01 PM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 197
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02-15-2011, 03:48 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
| lol really? I think I have the stock link (plastic and aluminum versions)... would that be better?
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02-15-2011, 03:56 PM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
| yes! integy is a terrible brand! ive also broken thier alum. parts faster than stock plastic! made from very very low grade alum. they also have poor desins, and there are much much better products out there!
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02-18-2011, 03:35 PM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
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Few minor improvements: 1. Discovered that what I thought was a spare stock link is actually the high clearance steering link and given as how a lot people expressed concern over the quality of the Integy link I was running I decided to switch to it: 2. Took the posted advice and the tires have had airholes drilled into them, two holes on opposite sides of the rim: You can see the tires under load in the above photo. 3. Adjusted the ride height, the Xtreme Racing SSG Carbon Fiber chassis is insanely adjustable so I dropped down a level. Have been trying to figure out how to inboard my lower links and finally realized that I just don't have enough screws to do it, need 12 I believe but only have 6, so need to order some extra hardware. Oh also bound it to my GT3B TX which is working out really nicely. |
02-18-2011, 03:51 PM | #17 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mtz
Posts: 196
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The truck seems like it coming along good. Like others have posted, lipos are the way to go. If and when you get the spare money, switch to lipos, you wont regret it. The only thing that I can say is a must is new tires. The stock rock lizzards are absolute junk. It doesn't matter what you do to them, you can drill holes, add weight, put different foams in, nothing changes the fact that they are garbage. You cant go wrong with HB rovers, white dot(soft), or HB sedonas(never used them, heard lots of good things).
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02-23-2011, 08:17 AM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
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Guys, Can you help me identify a part? I know that it's a wider servo mount but I've seen it used in a few different ways, i.e. servo center mounted with cells on either side or servo mounted on the left with lipos on the right, but I'm not sure who makes it or what other parts are required by it. Any information is much appreciated. [EDIT] Part identified as the 3Racing AXIAL AX10 Scorpion Chassis Graphite Battery & Servo Plate. 3Racing part # AX10-18/WO, What I don't appear to have is the little piece that lets you build the shorter link to account for the re-positioned servo, anyone got any suggestions on that? Last edited by TheB1GDude; 02-23-2011 at 11:24 AM. |
02-24-2011, 10:30 AM | #19 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
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Made a few more changes to my setup: 1. Added wire weight to my front wheels: Wire length in both rims is identical, both cuts came from same spool of wire, pre-cut sticky pads used to secure, so hopefully the weight of the rims with the wire is almost identical. 2. Installed the 3Racing carbon fiber servo plate: This moves the servo over to the side giving me room to mount a lipo pack, don't have the pack yet but hopefully will soon then I can shift even more weight to the front of the rig. Biggest issue with this piece was that I didn't have all of the parts it originally came with, so I had to ghetto-rig it by flipping the servo and using the stock link connected to an offset servo horn, seems to work just fine though 3. Inboarded all of my lower links, this involves moving the mount point for the shocks and links and is made possible by my lower chassis plate, it gives me some extra room when turning the wheels and obviously moves the links so they don't catch as easily. Apologies for the crappy photos but only had access to the camera on my phone and it isn't the best. |
03-08-2011, 11:30 AM | #20 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Pittston
Posts: 45
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It snowed Sunday and yesterday I figured as I was already outside shoveling I may as well make myself a little course, so I put together about a 4ft long 1ft wide track of packed snow, I added a few dips and humps and ran the AX10 over it, I also blasted it across the fresh powdered flat top which was fun as it was kicking up rooster tails as it went. Here are a few photos: Overall I am a little disappointed with how the AX10 handled my course, maybe the snow consisted of to much powder or maybe I made it to aggressive or maybe I just can't crawl for jack... actually I am inclined to blame it on what you guys told me would fail first and that's the tires, they don't hook up well on snow and no matter how I mod them they just don't seem to be very good.... guess I need replacements Anyways it was a blast and I am going to get the AX10 recharged and back out on the mountain a little later today, hopefully now my snow pile has had time to sit it will be a little more compacted and easier to navigate. |
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