Plugging in the castle link

[thatchvol]

OK.
After reading on bere, I've purchased the Holmes Hobby trailmaster BLE , a puller pro 2200, and a castle link to set it up.
Can I just point in the ESC and tune it without the motor plugged in or should I mount everything up first, except the battery?
Also, I am thinking the castle link chip plugs into the yellow/orange/brown lead from the ESC, but I can't tell which way should be up. The prongs on the chip are labelled +, -, and ground, but the triwire plug from the ESC is not labeled.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by thatchvol

OK.
After reading on bere, I've purchased the Holmes Hobby trailmaster BLE , a puller pro 2200, and a castle link to set it up.
Can I just point in the ESC and tune it without the motor plugged in or should I mount everything up first, except the battery?
Also, I am thinking the castle link chip plugs into the yellow/orange/brown lead from the ESC, but I can't tell which way should be up. The prongs on the chip are labelled +, -, and ground, but the triwire plug from the ESC is not labeled.

No need for a battery. Plug it in and program.

The white or Orange is usually your signal

[maslin]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

No need for a battery. Plug it in and program.

The white or Orange is usually your signal

Unless you have removed the red pin to run a BEC. Then you need a battery to power the ESC.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by maslin

Unless you have removed the red pin to run a BEC. Then you need a battery to power the ESC.

My bad. You are 100% correct but no mention of a BEC from OP.

[thatchvol]

I don't have an external BEC.
The ESC has the two battery wires and the three motor wires and a yellow/orange/brown triwire that ends in a female plug. Orange is in the middle.
The castle link has three male pins that will plug into the triwire plug either way you flip it.
I don't want to fry something by flipping the castle chip the wrong way.

[SPLATT]

Originally Posted by thatchvol

I don't have an external BEC.
The ESC has the two battery wires and the three motor wires and a yellow/orange/brown triwire that ends in a female plug. Orange is in the middle.
The castle link has three male pins that will plug into the triwire plug either way you flip it.
I don't want to fry something by flipping the castle chip the wrong way.

If you plug it in incorrectly it will have a solid red LED lit up. Plugged in correctly it will be green and red.

[HahnsB2]

Originally Posted by thatchvol

I don't have an external BEC.
The ESC has the two battery wires and the three motor wires and a yellow/orange/brown triwire that ends in a female plug. Orange is in the middle.
The castle link has three male pins that will plug into the triwire plug either way you flip it.
I don't want to fry something by flipping the castle chip the wrong way.

Servo/ESC lead wire colors vary. Yellow/white is typically the signal wire, black/brown is the negative and orange/red is usually the positive. Sometimes orange may be the signal wire, in that case, bet on red being the positive. The positive is always the one in the middle.

[thatchvol]

Got it.
Thanks

[altd896]

It seems you got it but just in case, this may help.
If nothing else it may help others

[thatchvol]

That's exactly what I needed. Simple
THANKS

[GEISSE-RC]

If you notice from the picture there are positive and negative marks on the castle link.

[altd896]

Originally Posted by GEISSE-RC

If you notice from the picture there are positive and negative marks on the castle link.

Yeah he mentioned that in the first post, I think he just wanted it confirmed regarding the wire colors.
When they use black/red/white it's a pretty safe guess its -/+/s
When they go & use other colors & your new to this stuff it could be more confusing.

[GEISSE-RC]

Yes you are correct. I was going to mention the bypass from HH those work great and make programming much easier.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[F1GHTF1R3W1THF1Re.]

How are you guys typically setting up your ESC's?

Obviously drag brake would be 100% but what about punch control & brake strength? I'm running a MMP w 2200kv Puller Pro on 3s.

[GEISSE-RC]

I personally go high on the on most settings but its a personal preference. But I'm the first to admit i don't know as much as a lot of the people on here I haven't been into it long enough. As i said above by using the HH bypass you are able to make changes much easier and faster. If something is a hassle to do most people wont change things to much (Me included lol).

[F1GHTF1R3W1THF1Re.]

Yep already have the HH Bypass! Puller Pro is "out for delivery" can't wait!

[maslin]

100% drag brake never works for me on faster cars, I like to be able to let off and not have them front flip instantly. I know I know... throttle control and it won't. But that gets annoying. 30-40% seems to work best, holds fine for crawling as well. I've never needed my truck to sit still on a ledge while I eat lunch.

Setting a nice parabolic curve on the throttle helps a lot, makes low speed control much better.

[F1GHTF1R3W1THF1Re.]

Originally Posted by maslin

100% drag brake never works for me on faster cars, I like to be able to let off and not have them front flip instantly. I know I know... throttle control and it won't. But that gets annoying. 30-40% seems to work best, holds fine for crawling as well. I've never needed my truck to sit still on a ledge while I eat lunch.

Setting a nice parabolic curve on the throttle helps a lot, makes low speed control much better.

That's how I feel too, definitely don't wanna to be jolting to a sudden stop all the time. Thanks for your input. I'll have to play around with the field link a bit, until I can get onto a Windows machine (all macs here, cba install vm)