Picking Bomber parts, please help and suggest

[Antsiranean]

I have just finished building an Axial Yeti (Snowman, the Abominable) and really enjoyed the process. It turned out to be lots of fun to drive, but if I am ever to hold that control again, I need another car for my children to drive. Wife willing, a Bomber shall be born and I will call it Oryx.

With the Yeti, I was aiming to make it bombproof from the beginning instead of upgrading as things broke, since I didn't want to spend time waiting for parts. Reading this forum, it seems to me that the Bomber is a more durable kit, and so I will have a different approach to it. In addition, having built a Yeti means I have some spares for a Bomber as well, like an RR60 axle and rear links. So, although I love the SSD centered axle, I won't get it until something breaks. Same goes for aluminum rear lower links.

The bomber will be used as an all rounder, mainly running on trails, doing some easy crawling and a bit of dirt bashing. I intend to equip it with a 2-speed gearbox and a Mamba ESC. I know some people say that a 2-speed isn't needed running this motor and ESC setup, but it will ensure that I (or my 6-year old daughter) can't drive it at maximum speed with the crawler mode on, hence saving us a lot of front tumbles.

So far, I have ordered
Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro BL 540, this seems to be THE motor for an all round Bomber
Savox SW-0231MG servo for the 2-speed gear box. Waterproof and strong enough.
Vanquish 20mm servo horn, an obvious upgrade from what I've read
Vanquish Aluminum servo clamp and
Vanquish AR60 servo mount, since I've understood a strong servo might break this.
Vanquish Yeti motor cam and
Vanquish yeti motor plate, not really needed I guess, but couldn't help myself.
A Castle BEC will go in there, somewhere

To be considered, please comment on this:
ESC: should I get a Mamba X or a Mamba Monster X? A lot of people seem to be running the Monster X, but is it really needed? The Mamba X is rated for up to 9 lbs, while the Monster is rated for up to 15 lbs. Looking at the weight of a standard Bomber, I guess a Mamba X should do it, but would appreciate some input on this. The Monster X has a rather large footprint - is it difficult to fit in? If not, I might as well get it.

Steering servo: either an Xpert 7701 (99$, waterproof IP67, 380 oz-in @ 7,4V; 485 oz-in @8,4) or a Promodeler 470 (99$, no waterproof rating, 440 oz-in @ 7,4V; 470 oz-in @8,4). I can't really see any reason to get the Promodeler over the Xpert, except that the Promodeler seems to be rather popular among the Bomber crowd.

Vanquish stage one kit - is it worth it? Is it needed? Is it good? Or should I go with the SSD knuckles and C-hubs? SSD also have the Pro knuckles, what about those?

Incision Stainless steel link kit - are they worth it? Are they needed? Are they good?

Wheels and tires: what do you think, should I just go with the stock, or should I get a set of SSD wheels and Hyrax tires from the beginning? Are those money better spent on other upgrades?

[durok]

Great choices so far!

Mamba X is definitely plenty - and you'll appreciate how much smaller it is than the Monster X, as there isn't a lot of room for electronics in the Bomber. Both of the Castle ESCs have a strong built-in BEC.

Personally I really like the Promodeller - it is O-ringed everywhere, but the company is really an aviation servo specialist so I think that's why they doesn't bother specifically trying to get an IP67 rating.

The Xpert line is not well-known here, seems to be quite popular in Europe. They might be a better choice for you if it's easier to get support in Sweden, as Promodeller is based here in Florida.

I'd go SSD, they are excellent and less expensive. The Pro version has a double-shear high-mount steering link for more strength and clearance. The newest HD version has a larger bearing size (included).

Incision links, yes - recommended.

You will get many arguments here about wheels & tires - I say just get wheels and better foams (two-stage Crawler Innovations or Proline) at first, but Jato will be here shortly to say Axial tires suck.

I personally would replace the trailing arms with SSD branded ones, they are priced fairly and much better than stock plastics - but that's my opinion.

[mikemcE]

Agree with Durok..... only thoughts I have is your links..... Incision use 3mm , the strong ones all use 4mm..... vanquish here. The SSD and Hyrax are fantastic, I would also choose the PM470 servo


Hang up and Drive

[durok]

I've not bought the Incision links, myself - just had heard mostly good about them. For mine I went a little (!) overboard and got JEC Racing SS links all-around. They are extremely beefy...

[Antsiranean]

Thanks for the input so far, seems as if I'm not too far off. Any thoughts on the Vanquish stage one kit vs SSD knuckles and C-hubs?

Originally Posted by durok

I've not bought the Incision links, myself - just had heard mostly good about them. For mine I went a little (!) overboard and got JEC Racing SS links all-around. They are extremely beefy...

Do you have a link to these, I can't find them and would like to have a look. Both Vanquish and Incision use M3 rod ends. Does JEC use M4?

Originally Posted by durok

Mamba X is definitely plenty - and you'll appreciate how much smaller it is than the Monster X, as there isn't a lot of room for electronics in the Bomber. Both of the Castle ESCs have a strong built-in BEC.

Personally I really like the Promodeller - it is O-ringed everywhere, but the company is really an aviation servo specialist so I think that's why they doesn't bother specifically trying to get an IP67 rating.

The Xpert line is not well-known here, seems to be quite popular in Europe. They might be a better choice for you if it's easier to get support in Sweden, as Promodeller is based here in Florida.

A Mamba X it is then. Concerning the servos, I think customer support will leave a lot to be wished for in both cases. It makes sense that Promodeler wouldn't bother about IP ratings, as you say. I'll guess I'll just look for a good deal then and let the wallet choose between Promodeler and Xpert.

[durok]

I mentioned preferring SSD, myself - of course I have several Vanquish parts (that SSD does not make a version of) - SSD are perhaps less pretty, but very strong and functional, as well as almost always being less expensive.

I have SSD Pro C-hubs & knuckles, differential covers, and titanium steering links. The axle trusses, servo mount, servo horn, clamping wheel hexes, bearing caps are Vanquish and 1 set of wheels are Vanquish Incision Method MR307.

JEC Racing is the only company I have ever ordered from that only has a FaceBook page... all my links and trailing arms are stainless steel from them - they make custom parts so you can ask for something you don't see.

They use Traxxas Revo rod-ends (included) - drilled links are lower fronts - trailing arms can also be bought from Super Shafty in 7075 aluminum (or stainless - lifetime warranty on all metal parts):

https://supershafty.com/collections/...i-score-bomber

What I have:

[84yoda]

VP, incision and jec uses 4mm threads. The pivot ball hole is 3mm. Just go with VP incision SS link kit.

Edit: and jec/super shafty SS rear trailing arms.

[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by durok

I have SSD Pro C-hubs & knuckles, differential covers, and titanium steering links. The axle trusses, servo mount, servo horn, clamping wheel hexes, bearing caps are Vanquish and 1 set of wheels are Vanquish Incision Method MR307.

Why do the Pro C-hubs and knuckles require a Wraith steering tie rod or SSD Titanium steering link? I suppose that means that I would have to get an SSD steering link in addition to the Incision link kit, if I go for the Pro version? And what's better with the SSD Pro stuff than with the SSD HD60 knuckles and hubs?

What tires do you have on the Vanquish Incision Method MR307 wheels? Can I fit Proline Hyrax on them?

[durok]

It's because of the higher steering arm location...

I'd just get the new SSD HD AR60 knuckles, they should work fine with Incision steering links AND the Pro C-hubs, they are the newest release. They come with bigger bearings installed...

Yes, I confess that I have Axial R35 compound kit tires mounted on the MR307 wheels - with Crawler Innovations Double Deuces foam. I soaked the tires in degreaser and they are extremely sticky. But I do have these, as well:

Wheel Pics - No talking

tires as yet undecided.

2nd pic with "beauty rings" installed:

[Antsiranean]

Thanks a lot for all the advice so far, I've made a few adjustments on my shopping list accordingly.

One more question come to mind though. On the Yeti, a lot of people experience problems with the rear drive shafts, that bend due to the rear lockouts and RR60 axle being to flexible. That's why I got an SSD wide centered axle for my Yeti from the very beginning. Now, the Bomber uses the exact same setup, but I can't remember anyone having this problem. Haven't I been careful enough in my research, or doesn't the Bomber have any rear axle issues? Do you think it will have with a PullerPro 3500kv?

The SSD axle is a really nice piece of work, but rather expensive, so if I don't need it I won't get it. In addition, I have a spare rear axle setup from my Yeti kit. But question remains: should I upgrade the axle from the beginning? And, if so, which route would you consider the best: either buying an SSD axle and be done with it, or just (maybe gradually) upgrading the stock axle with beef tubes, Vanquish clamping lockouts and maybe an SSD diff cover and Vanquish bearing caps?

When it comes to wheels and tires, that's a rather confusing subject to me. I really like some of the Vanquish wheels, like these OMF beadlocks, or the method race wheels, but can I fit ProLine tires on them? Like Hyrax? SSD wheels might not look fully as trick, but Proline tires are a breeze to mount on them, and I know they fit.

[durok]

One good thing to keep in mind - if you strengthen a plastic housing, when you wear it out you can just move the metal parts to a new one very cheaply!

Inside my Dlux Fab plastic axle housings (with the bigger pinion bearing), I myself went with the beef tubes (stainless Boom Racing Kroniks), aluminum lockouts (forgot the brand), aluminum truss and bearing caps (Vanquish), and SSD diff covers. There are "HD" axles available if I start bending axles that I will try out - Vanquish and Locked Up RC both make a set that are inexpensive:

Vanquish Products AR60 Rear Axle Shafts

Locked Up RC OT Shaft - AR60

(I learned my lesson and am providing links now... )

You did not list aluminum trusses - they do provide even more support to plastic axle housings:

Vanquish Products Axial Wraith / Yeti HD Truss Black Anodized (2)

Available also in silver and grey anodized.

As far as mounting Proline tires - some people have troubles mounting them, I do not have any to report about my experiences with. I do know that they have been successfully mounted on Vanquish wheels.

[Odd-M]

OMF with Proline can be done, but it's a ****** **** to get them together. Been there, done that. OMF's are also too narrow to look right with the wider tires people tend to use. I'd look at something else. Went from OMF's to SSD Wide Assasins with PL rings. Mounting them up was a breeze, and in my opinion the combo looks far better.


Oh, and ditch the 2-speed transmission. No use for that anyway, and that motor will do just fine at both low and high rpms.

[Jboucher]

I also kept the plastic housings on my Bomber.
The dlux big bearing were out of stock and so were the vanquish bearing caps.

I could only get beeftubes and the wraith stage 1 kit.
It should be plenty for now and if they break, I can go with Dlux and more vanquish.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[mikemcE]

I read with interest , and will throw a point in here. By the time beef tubes, Dlux housings and a truss is added, and some HD axles, I’m going to save money and have looks with my SSD diamonds.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-...iABEgIaDvD_BwE
I run the black ones, they use any VP parts up front, I didn’t mention get a delrin skid , then rock !
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-...54/p498737?r=0


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Honestly, I don't think the Bomber kit needs a lot of upgrades until you bend or break something. Here's my input.

ESC: Mamba X. I got the Mamba Monster X thinking that was needed for a big rig like the Bomber. When I learned the Mamba X could handle the task I regret not getting that one since it's so much smaller. It's a PITA to find room for the Monster.
Motor: Holmes PP 3500kv is great for sure. I actually prefer the Tekin ROC412 3100kv for trailing, but it's not as fun to bash with.
Links: Stock links are pretty durable. I wouldn't upgrade those until needed. I did bend one almost immediately after building the kit, but Axial said it was a fluke and replaced it. I haven't bent one since.
Trailing Arms: The kit comes with metal plates to strengthen the plastic trailing arms. The are completely fine. I did rip one of the plastic ends off the trailing arm in a monster truck, but you don't need to upgrade until this happens.
Wheels and Tires: SSD and Hyrax is a great combo. I prefer Gear Head wheels for looks and ease of mounting ProLine tires, but you pay for them.
Axles: I think the stock plastic ones are fine if you get Beef Tubes. There are pros and cons to aluminum axles.

If you want aluminum pieces the Vanquish Stage 1 kit is a great deal.

Most of the other upgrades aren't needed IMHO.

[slowmethinks]

I wanna chime in and recommend the Wertymade electronics tray. It mounts in front of the battery and is an excellent place for your Rx, BEC, etc. Getting to the Rx if kept under the interior is a major PITA.

Wertymade RR10 Bomber Aluminum Electronics Mount Plate

Also, another +1 for the Mamba X. Hell of a ESC.

I run Incision links on our Bomber and have only had to replace stretched, worn links. I haven't had one break... yeah.

HD diff gears are a must if you get the RTR.

I hope this helps!

[durok]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

I also kept the plastic housings on my Bomber.
The dlux big bearing were out of stock and so were the vanquish bearing caps.

I could only get beeftubes and the wraith stage 1 kit.
It should be plenty for now and if they break, I can go with Dlux and more vanquish.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

SSD makes a plastic center pumpkin big bearing ar60 housing for the rear now, and I think they also have their own bearing caps... Wondering if they will add a front plastic housing soon...

I am not totally against metal housings, but plastic does ride over rocks much better... Even with the little delrin skids added.

[Jboucher]

I had to rebuild my axle housings 3 times to get the gear mesh "OK" and the beeftubes were so tight they are never getting out of there...

I will wait until something breaks before I re-open the axles

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by durok

One good thing to keep in mind - if you strengthen a plastic housing, when you wear it out you can just move the metal parts to a new one very cheaply!

Good point.

Originally Posted by mikemcE

I read with interest , and will throw a point in here. By the time beef tubes, Dlux housings and a truss is added, and some HD axles, I’m going to save money and have looks with my SSD diamonds.

Also a good point.

Originally Posted by Odd-M

OMF with Proline can be done, but it's a ****** **** to get them together. Been there, done that. OMF's are also too narrow to look right with the wider tires people tend to use. I'd look at something else. Went from OMF's to SSD Wide Assasins with PL rings. Mounting them up was a breeze, and in my opinion the combo looks far better.

Good to know. I'll stick with SSD wheels then. It'll match my Yeti as well.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Honestly, I don't think the Bomber kit needs a lot of upgrades until you bend or break something. Here's my input.
[...]
If you want aluminum pieces the Vanquish Stage 1 kit is a great deal

Most of the other upgrades aren't needed IMHO.

I appreciate your input and will probably do as suggested, doing most of the upgrading as things break. Maybe start out with either a Vanquish stage one kit or SSD C-hubs and knuckles (hard to choose between these) , and a nice set of wheels (I'll check out Gear Head) and tiresbut holding off on the rest. It think that should give me a good start without totally draining my wallet. It certainly isn't a cheap hobby!

[Jwalbiscut]

I'm in the same boat as Jato; if it ain't broke, don't fix it.