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Old 08-29-2011, 09:08 AM   #1
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Default New to crawling

Hey guys im about to order my first real Rc for crawler. I have decided to go with the axial SCX 10. I was eounderiung what parts should I order with my purchase. I was thinking of getting this with it. I don't want to get it and it break right away. http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/ckrcs-ba...be399c46459fdd

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Old 08-29-2011, 10:14 AM   #2
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I am also in the same boat you are in. I asked this same question a few days ago and most people said to buy it and then fix things once they break. I have read about a few guys having some problems from the get go running them but from what I can see most people have no problems with most of the stock stuff for the first while.

I was planning on buying upgraded stuff as well but Ive decided to hold off until I am able to buy and run my Honcho for a while to see what all will break first.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:14 AM   #3
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Mine is stock except for driveshafts. Got 2 summers on it now and no problems.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:14 AM   #4
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Depends if you are getting the rtr or kit. That package will do good. You said it is your first crawler, what other rc's have you owned?
The kit would benefit you due to the knowledge you gain on the build. Makes life easier when you have to repair it. If you are getting the rtr the stock electronics would be the first to go. They work great for a while but won't last too long.

My Wifes scx is mostly stock her tx/rx came from my wraith, servo is stock for now ( I have a pair of spares) , I swapped the motor for a Novak spec class 21.5t sensored bl with havok esc ( excellent results with stock gearing ) save you money for a good battery ortwo and charger.

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Old 08-29-2011, 10:18 AM   #5
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I guess I should have specified that I have the kit with the aluminum links. My kid had trouble with the 3 link so you might want to get a 4 link mount right away.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:42 AM   #6
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Love the Underdog avatar!

Anyway, I have both a brand new SCX10 kit (I added all the elctronics...none come with) and just got a slightly used SCX10 RTR (has stock motor and ESC, but servo has been upgraded by previous owner) that I am returning to stock (previous owner had bigger shocks and 2.2s on it), and have not upgraded any of the knuckles, driveshafts, etc on either rig.

While I can't speak to the newly acquired RTR (that is in pieces right now and I hope to get it into my 6 year-old's hands by the weekend), I can say my Honcho kit has been great, so if I were you, I would hold of on dropping another $80 on "upgrades" from the start.

If something breaks right away, get in touch with Axial and they will take care of you...great company to deal with. If you later decide you want to "upgrade" some parts, buy a star on this site so you can post in the Classifieds. I have already bought a bunch of stuff from members here...you save money and meet great people that way.

Just my two cents.

Enjoy the new truck!

Last edited by MarkThomas; 08-29-2011 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:19 AM   #7
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Thanks guys for the input I have been into everything Rc except crawlers for about 15 years with. Question with the kit I see there isn't that much price difference so what do I gain from buying kit besides building it. It seems like for not much more you get alot. Thanks again.

-Chance-

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Old 08-29-2011, 11:24 AM   #8
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You don't get any electronics with the kit but you'll end up buying new esc shortly any how.
The kit has aluminum links too.

Last edited by Super; 08-29-2011 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:40 AM   #9
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You get the aluminum links and spacers instead of plastic. The link kit alone runs $50. The spacers run 5-7$ per bag of 6 at my lhs.
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:00 PM   #10
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Im going to have to think about it. I do love building kits but you get alot for just a few extra bucks. I know I will replace the motor and esc but don't have the money to do it all right now. Its a hard decision. If it came with more than just upgraded links then I might be more willing to do it.

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Old 08-29-2011, 12:51 PM   #11
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Yeah, I was swimming in this sea of info a few weeks ago myself. Here is the lowdown:

Kit - About $50 to $60 cheaper and has aluminum links and spacers, along with hex screws. Comes with nothing needed to run...no motor, no ESC, no servo, no radio, no batteries, no charger. You also have to cut and paint the body/bed.

RTR - Comes assembled and "painted", with Axial motor, Axial ESC (make sure you get one with the AE-2 ESC), and 2.4ghz two-channel radio (again, the 2.4 is the newer one, the older ones have AM). Also, the RTR is 100% plastic (aside from axles, of course) and most of the screws are phillips-head. Another nice thing about the RTRs is they come with basic LEDs, so you have lights...the kit contains NO lights, just light buckets to put lights into later. With the RTR, you will still need to buy batteries and charger.

Everyone keeps saying you will need to swap out the ESC on the RTR. I actually bought an Axial AE-2 for my KIT truck and so far I really like it. I have nothing to compare it to, but I like it.

And, for what it is worth, I bought a used RC4WD 45t motor on eBay for around $15, a used AE-2 ESC for around $30, a brand new 3ch 2.4ghz radio for $35, and a new metal-geared servo for $20. My batteries (2s LIPO 3300mAh x2) and charger (AC 6 Thunder) were $75-ish?

So, in the end, I spent at least another $100 on the kit AFTER it was built and painted...let alone the tools I have bought since then (scissors and Hex drivers). And I went the cheap route. You could easily spend more for motor, ESC, etc for the kit.

Last edited by MarkThomas; 08-29-2011 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:57 PM   #12
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AE-2 will outlast the motor from my exp. Runs great on 2s lipo and can handle down to a 19t motor. Only thing I didn't care for with the rtr is the radio. Feels rather cheap. The AR-3 that comes with the wraith is superior.

Nice thing about the plastic of the rtr is it is very forgiving.
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Old 08-29-2011, 01:05 PM   #13
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i have the RTR honcho. mine is fairly stock except for DIY steel links and a electronics relocation. i have run about 10, 5000maH LiPo batteries through this thing and definitely drive it like i stole it. it has survived several drunken backyard bashings by multiple careless adults, a few kids' bashings, a couple 4-5' vertical drops, some jumping and rolling over piles of rocks firewood and dirt, mild wetness from snow/mud, and two times i rolled it about a 15 vertical-foot distance down a mountainous granite outcropping when out on the trails last weekend in my 1:1

*knock on wood* - i have not yet broken a single part of this rig! the only thing that's happened is i have had the d-shafts slip off the trans the first day i got it, but then loctite'd them back on and really cranked the bolt down; and i think i broke a tooth off one of the plastic trans gears after doing a lot of full throttle slams from fwd/rev, because now it clicks but still runs just fine (that reminds me i need to take a look inside this week).

IMO, the RTR is a VERY durable rig right out of the box, and with $20 and a couple DIY hours you can ditch the plastic 3-link and upgrade all your links to metal - or just wait until they break and then upgrade. i did mine right away after watching the steering link bend like crazy. i could not justify buying the kit version seeing how the only difference is that it comes with metal links instead of all the electronics - wow oh yeah, and aren't the metal links a 3-link setup? so you'd have to go and buy a 4-link bracket if you want to upgrade your flex a tad - a part the RTR kit comes with in the parts bag. the ONLY thing i don't like about the RTR is that it doesn't come with the headlight buckets that are attached to the extra plastic on the body. i have around $500 total invested into mine (RTR, two Dynamite 2s 5000maH batteries, Onyx 235 charger, traxxas rod ends, and a trip to the store for hardware, threaded rod and brake line)

since you show concern for the drive shafts and plastic steering knuckles and gears failing on you - that might be a wise investment. i've been waiting for these parts to fail on me, but so far it hasn't happened after all the use and roll-overs it's seen. they are definitely parts that i could see breaking before any of the electronics, so i've got plans to replace them ever since putting metal steering links. oh yeah, MarkThomas mentions hex/allen-hardware - my RTR only has phillips screws mounting the servo, everything else is allen-head.

anyways that's my $.02, good luck with the purchase - you won't regret it no matter which way you go.
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:14 PM   #14
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Wow thanks guys for your in depth replys I really appreciate it. Well after thinking alot I decided to go with the rtr in my eyes its just to good of a deal. I guess the main thing is I love tinkering and if I buy a kit and out all the best stuff in it it will kinda take away the fun if upgrading your rig. Im really pumped to order it im going to tomorrow night. Also decided bot to get the upgraded parts for bow and buy an extra receiver and some more batteries. Can you guys give mr ab idea what kind of runtime I might see with a 3300 2c lipo on a stock set up thanks again.

-Chance-

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Old 08-29-2011, 02:16 PM   #15
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I got 30 minutes plus using 1650 mah 2s. All depends on how heavy your trigger finger is.

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Old 08-29-2011, 02:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar32985 View Post
Wow thanks guys for your in depth replys I really appreciate it. Well after thinking alot I decided to go with the rtr in my eyes its just to good of a deal. I guess the main thing is I love tinkering and if I buy a kit and out all the best stuff in it it will kinda take away the fun if upgrading your rig. Im really pumped to order it im going to tomorrow night. Also decided bot to get the upgraded parts for bow and buy an extra receiver and some more batteries. Can you guys give mr ab idea what kind of runtime I might see with a 3300 2c lipo on a stock set up thanks again.

-Chance-

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Great choice...I think with the RTR you will be money ahead, especially at first. And if you are like me, the "stock" colors of the bodies aren't a big deal as cutting and painting the lexan was the one part I did not look forward to with the build of the kit.

The used RTR I just got a couple days ago has all phillips screws even though it had the 2.4ghz and AE-2, so you never know what "flavor" of RTR you will end up with. Kinda wish the kit had the phillips, too, cuz then I wouldn't have had to spend $30 on hex drivers. LOL.

And, if you end up not liking the RTR radio gear, spend a whopping $35 on a brand new FlySky GT3B...a great 3ch 2.4ghz radio. My second one is riding in a brown truck somewhere as we speak, to be put into the newly-acquired RTR.

Enjoy!

Last edited by MarkThomas; 08-29-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:01 PM   #17
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i easily get well over 1 hour run-time with my Dynamite 2s 5000maH LiPo's with normal trail driving/crawling. once i get heavy fingered on the flat stuff, 30-45 minutes.
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkThomas View Post
Great choice...I think with the RTR you will be money ahead, especially at first. And if you are like me, the "stock" colors of the bodies aren't a big deal as cutting and painting the lexan was the one part I did not look forward to with the build of the kit.

The used RTR I just got a couple days ago has all phillips screws even though it had the 2.4ghz and AE-2, so you never know what "flavor" of RTR you will end up with. Kinda wish the kit had the phillips, too, cuz then I wouldn't have had to spend $30 on hex drivers. LOL.

And, if you end up not liking the RTR radio gear, spend a whopping $35 on a brand new FlySky GT3B...a great 3ch 2.4ghz radio. My second one is riding in a brown truck somewhere as we speak, to be put into the newly-acquired RTR.


Enjoy!
You will get philips screws if you buy the RTR version of DINGO, if you buy RTR and KIT HONCHO it comes in both forms with only hex hardware.

I have originaly both the RTR version and I would buy another RTR again now when they come with the AE-2 ESC which is based on CC Sidewinder and is compatible with the castle link. The RTR will definatly save you money. The only thing you might want to upgrade stright away is the steering link and servo (gets sloppy quick) or put some beerings in it (3x6x5).
I have upgraded mines to all allu links and i somehow regret it. The plastic links are strong and slide nicley from roks where the allu likes to stick on them.

Anyway you go you cant get wrong. They are both bomb proof.

Thats just my $02.
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkThomas View Post
Great choice...I think with the RTR you will be money ahead, especially at first. And if you are like me, the "stock" colors of the bodies aren't a big deal as cutting and painting the lexan was the one part I did not look forward to with the build of the kit.

The used RTR I just got a couple days ago has all phillips screws even though it had the 2.4ghz and AE-2, so you never know what "flavor" of RTR you will end up with. Kinda wish the kit had the phillips, too, cuz then I wouldn't have had to spend $30 on hex drivers. LOL.

And, if you end up not liking the RTR radio gear, spend a whopping $35 on a brand new FlySky GT3B...a great 3ch 2.4ghz radio. My second one is riding in a brown truck somewhere as we speak, to be put into the newly-acquired RTR.

Enjoy!
Haha funny you say that I have the Flysky its a great controller. I expected it to be junk but I really like it. Also love the big screen on it

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Old 08-30-2011, 01:50 AM   #20
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With a Gens Ace 2s 2200mah pack and a Sv2 + 1200kv brushless I get more run time then I've ever used in one sittting. Not really sure how long exactly as it's never ran out on me. 30 minutes of crawling + some full throttle running around the yard letting the dogs chse the truck only drained it half way or so
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