Pin Through Options For Drive-shafts?

[NFA Fabrication]

I started this thread yesterday (It got lost due to the server crash) asking if there is a convenient way to convert to a pin through vs. the set screw on the driveshaft connections. Note: I started this thread before I got my Honcho...

Well, I got my honcho today, and guess what happened halfway into the first run? 2 of these set screws came loose, and I was the proud owner of a 2wd honcho!

Is this just being accepted, or is there a proper update for this design flaw? Does anyone make a transmission output gear with holes on the shafts? Do the wheely king gears fit in the axial diffs as I have heard that they do? I'd love to be able to run Maxx shafts if possible. I am now afraid to take it on any lengthy trail runs.

My New Honcho!



Just gotta get that Ed Hardy T-Shirt decal off the hood.;)

[iamsuperbleeder]

I believe it is exactly what you're looking for

Axial Racing - Press : AX30794 WB8 Driveshaft Set (2pcs)


basically, stock Wraith parts

[AsILayDying]

its pretty easy since the stock outdrives are aluminum you can just drill it and tap it and put your own screw through. I drilled my rear set since loktite wasnt working. I drilled and then put a small cotterpin through it and locked it on there. No problems since.

[iamsuperbleeder]

Originally Posted by AsILayDying

its pretty easy since the stock outdrives are aluminum you can just drill it and tap it and put your own screw through. I drilled my rear set since loktite wasnt working. I drilled and then put a small cotterpin through it and locked it on there. No problems since.

yeah that's the DIY option

I have the slider mounting pins left over after I mounted my project boxes that house my electronics through those holes, and I've been thinking about to the same and using those pins

are the stock SCX10 diff inputs aluminum too or are those steel?

[NFA Fabrication]

All those axial parts would basically solve my issue, but it is a pricey adventure. I am going to look into just drilling and grinding flat spots to run Maxx shafts I think. I don't like that the wraith axles are so many pieces as well, just good old fashion Maxx u-joints will be good/cheap/only need to be done once. After looking at the rest of the well engineered truck, very surprised that the axial engineers let this one slip out the door! Still a very good package for $250 shipped!

[iamsuperbleeder]

I'm actually using Traxxas drive shafts at the moment. Pretty readily available at almost any hobby shop. You can get 6 complete shafts (Traxxas P/N 1953 for the kit) for $10, and they're a direct fit in place of the plastic Axials. Granted they're plastic too, but it's cheaper than buying Axial replacements or MIPs. And as far as the end yokes popping off, a second set screw on the other side seems to be doing me well. I couldn't find another 4 matching screws laying around to use (yes, they had to be matching... I'm OCD about things like that ), so I used some spare PC screws that I had laying around, and they're 3mm and short so they fit perfectly. Used locktite on all of them, and they're holding great!

Since the double set screws I haven't had an issue with the yokes popping off. But I can't say the same with the plastic drive shafts. This is what happened to my original Axial front drive shaft...





Now the Traxxes shafts, they take a beating, and I ran these things all day on a wheeling trip! Still going strong despite looking like hell

[Big Daddy]

I just loctited mine and put a screw in both sides and have never had a problem.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

I just loctited mine and put a screw in both sides and have never had a problem.

+1 chop down an m3 and use 2 per end. Tightening the flat spotted side first, then the other side. Prolly your cheapest option. I've run regular cap heads, they get some rock rash but it hasn't hurt anything. The 2.5mm drive allows you to really crank down on em.

[meatmonkey]

While a through pin is a very secure method of driveshaft retention, it is a real pain to drill through either the steel version of the trans output, or the steel pinion shaft. Much less drill it precise enough so that it all goes together without slop.

I use 3x5mm buttonhead bolts in place of the setscrews. You can really reef them tight and I've yet to loose a driveshaft since.

I hate to admit it, but using the smaller 3mm setscrews instead of 4mm setscrews or a through bolt is a bit of a design flaw, but at least it's easy to fix with some bolts!

[NFA Fabrication]

Pulled all set screws and locktited them in place. Made it 2 more packs before 2 were loose again. I am done driving this until I have a pin through set up on this car. Can't believe the aftermarket hasn't covered this with all that is available. Anyone know anything about the rumor that wheely king diff parts are interchangeable? This would solve at least the diff side...

[meatmonkey]

I think you are overcomplicating the solution. Just replace the setscrews with 3x5 buttonhead allen drive bolts. You can get them much tighter without risk of stripping them out.

I run this setup without loc-tite, and they still don't loosen up, even after many hours.

I've used HPI part number: HPIZ350 with great success, and it's only three bucks and no fab work required.

[Big Daddy]

This is what works for me.
Set screw on the flat and a button head on the other. Loctite, tighten, let it set over night for loctite to set up, drive, forget.


Sorry about the dirty rig pic but I've been out driving it more than working on it lately. Looks like I'm not far away from a new drive shaft though, that hole is getting pretty wobbled out.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication

Pulled all set screws and locktited them in place. Made it 2 more packs before 2 were loose again. I am done driving this until I have a pin through set up on this car. Can't believe the aftermarket hasn't covered this with all that is available. Anyone know anything about the rumor that wheely king diff parts are interchangeable? This would solve at least the diff side...

Not to sound like a dick, but if this is keeping you from out having fun with your rig you'll really be upset if you decide to do any type of customizing. This has been covered since the release of the ax10.

[NFA Fabrication]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

Not to sound like a dick, but if this is keeping you from out having fun with your rig you'll really be upset if you decide to do any type of customizing. This has been covered since the release of the ax10.

Well, having my new rig fall apart right out of the box, and having it continue to do so when put together as the factory recommends is not my idea of having fun. I understand that I can put a screw in that hole that can be tightened more, but I don't want screws sticking out of the driveshaft.

I have several other crawlers, and RC cars that I can use in the meanwhile . I bought this one specifically to go on long woods runs with friends, and until I think it is going to make it a full trip without falling apart, there is no need to drive it. I do a lot of fabrication, and engineering in my job, and before I even had this thing in my hands, I knew this was going to be an issue.

I am probably going to buy the Wraith diff input shafts, and the transmission outputs, and mill flat spots on them to be able to run Maxx shafts. Not to expensive, and should be pretty bullet-proof.

Also, did anyone else notice that the driveshaft rubs the upper 3 link? Not really that big of a deal, and it looks like the 4 link conversion may solve this (Possibly needing one slightly bent link for the Maxx shafts). I will post pics of my final solution. Thanks for all the suggestions/input!

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication

Well, having my new rig fall apart right out of the box, and having it continue to do so when put together as the factory recommends is not my idea of having fun. I understand that I can put a screw in that hole that can be tightened more, but I don't want screws sticking out of the driveshaft.

I have several other crawlers, and RC cars that I can use in the meanwhile . I bought this one specifically to go on long woods runs with friends, and until I think it is going to make it a full trip without falling apart, there is no need to drive it. I do a lot of fabrication, and engineering in my job, and before I even had this thing in my hands, I knew this was going to be an issue.

I am probably going to buy the Wraith diff input shafts, and the transmission outputs, and mill flat spots on them to be able to run Maxx shafts. Not to expensive, and should be pretty bullet-proof.

Also, did anyone else notice that the driveshaft rubs the upper 3 link? Not really that big of a deal, and it looks like the 4 link conversion may solve this (Possibly needing one slightly bent link for the Maxx shafts). I will post pics of my final solution. Thanks for all the suggestions/input!

Ax30435 will do it for you on the tranny side, ax30408 on the axle side. The screw shaft on the revo shafts are m4x3mm iirc. The holes on the wraith outputs are 2.5mm, the screw shafts are anyway so be prepared for modding. Then again I could be making a mountain out of a molehill.

I migrated from revo shafts to mips at the same time I migrated from standard axles to wraith axles on my scx10 w/summit tranny. The central tranny output and offset input of the axles caused clearance issues with those huge shafts and upper links, the MIPS are a better fit. The upper links still needed slight bends.

Also keep in mind only standard gearing/cast gears have output holes drilled. And as of now Axial has no plans to offer machined gearing with holes. This may or may not be an issue for some.

[NFA Fabrication]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

Ax30435 will do it for you on the tranny side. The screw shaft on the revo shafts are m4x3mm iirc. The holes on the wraith outputs are 2.5mm, the screw shafts are anyway so be prepared for modding. Then again I could be making a mountain out of a molehill.

I migrated from revo shafts to mips at the same time I migrated from standard axles to wraith axles on my scx10 w/summit tranny. The central tranny output and offset input of the axles caused clearance issues with those huge shafts and upper links, the MIPS are a better fit. The upper links still needed slight bends.

Also keep in mind only standard gearing/cast gears have output holes drilled. And as of now Axial has no plans to offer machined gearing with holes. This may or may not be an issue for some.

I have several crawlers, and plan on keeping this one mostly stock outside of tires/wheels, and maybe body in the future, as I have wanted a "Scale" rig in my stable for a while now. Only mods I am interested in are ones that will make the truck bulletproof, so long trail runs will not be a worry. And after a little research, it appears that the shafts are 5mm, so I'd have the option of running the Maxx, or the standard Slash size drive-shafts (Which may be sufficient with stock size tires). I am probably gonna try the smaller Slash axles first, as they are a little more scale appropriate, and feel like they will hold up good with 1.9 wheels/tires.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication

I have several crawlers, and plan on keeping this one mostly stock outside of tires/wheels, and maybe body in the future, as I have wanted a "Scale" rig in my stable for a while now. Only mods I am interested in are ones that will make the truck bulletproof, so long trail runs will not be a worry. And after a little research, it appears that the shafts are 5mm, so I'd have the option of running the Maxx, or the standard Slash size drive-shafts (Which may be sufficient with stock size tires). I am probably gonna try the smaller Slash axles first, as they are a little more scale appropriate, and feel like they will hold up good with 1.9 wheels/tires.

Slash 2wd/stampede 2wd shafts are pretty much identical to ax/scx shafts. Slash2wd vxl/Slash4x4/stampede4x4 shafts are a bit bigger and maxx/revo bigger than that. Imo its either maxx/revo or mip/junfac

[NFA Fabrication]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

Slash 2wd/stampede 2wd shafts are pretty much identical to ax/scx shafts. Slash2wd vxl/Slash4x4/stampede4x4 shafts are a bit bigger and maxx/revo bigger than that. Imo its either maxx/revo or mip/junfac

I recently sold my 2wd slash, and purchased a 4x4 slash a while ago, and have quite a supply of shafts for both, as well as a ton of Maxx shaft parts laying around, so I have some stuff to play with. I will probably end up with 4x4 slash or Maxx shafts on the truck with the Wraith tranny outputs, and diff inputs.

I'd think the 4x4 slash shafts would be able to hold up pretty good considering what I put my 4x4 slash through on 3S, and that the SCX10 would also have the gear reduction in the diffs taking the stress off of them even more. I'l most likely be staying 27T, and only running 2s or 7.2 NIMH.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication

I recently sold my 2wd slash, and purchased a 4x4 slash a while ago, and have quite a supply of shafts for both, as well as a ton of Maxx shaft parts laying around, so I have some stuff to play with. I will probably end up with 4x4 slash or Maxx shafts on the truck with the Wraith tranny outputs, and diff inputs.

I'd think the 4x4 slash shafts would be able to hold up pretty good considering what I put my 4x4 slash through on 3S, and that the SCX10 would also have the gear reduction in the diffs taking the stress off of them even more. I'l most likely be staying 27T, and only running 2s or 7.2 NIMH.

You must be taking it easy on your slash4x4

With those shafts and stock motor you should be good to go.

[NFA Fabrication]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

You must be taking it easy on your slash4x4

With those shafts and stock motor you should be good to go.

Lol! Don't get me wrong, they are starting to show twist, but figured that the SCX10 would apply far less stress than the 4x4 Slash on 3s.