Newbie looking into a crawler

[electricrc68]

Hey there guys. So I'm new to the crawler scene and have been looking for one for quite a while. I think I would like the SCX10 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon SCX10 Kit, and have a few questions:

1. Which servo would you guys recommend I use?

2. Which ESC/Motor Combo would be best for scaling and mild to moderate crawling?

3. Will the Futaba 4PLS work as a radio for this rig?


Thanks for any help!

[lemonhead]

reading the stickies at the top of the page will help answering your questions

[electricrc68]

Thanks. I actually did look there, but didn't find anything about servos, and there weren't really any combos listed...just individual escs/motors.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by electricrc68

1. Which servo would you guys recommend I use?

I use a Hitec HS7954SH in my SCX10. You will need a external BEC unless you are running a ESC such as the BR-XL that has a higher amp capacity internal BEC.

Originally Posted by electricrc68

2. Which ESC/Motor Combo would be best for scaling and mild to moderate crawling?

Look at the HH TorqueMaster Expert 35T combo. Holmes Hobbies LLC

Originally Posted by electricrc68

3. Will the Futaba 4PLS work as a radio for this rig?

It would work really well, it is a nice radio but expensive. A cheaper alternative is the FlySky GT3B. Flysky GT3B

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

I use a Hitec HS7954SH in my SCX10. You will need a external BEC unless you are running a ESC such as the BR-XL that has a higher amp capacity internal BEC.

Look at the HH TorqueMaster Expert 35T combo. Holmes Hobbies LLC

It would work really well, it is a nice radio but expensive. A cheaper alternative is the FlySky GT3B. Flysky GT3B

Thanks! Is there a cheaper servo option? That is a little steep for me. The combo is at a good price though. The main reason for the Futaba is because I also am going to be racing, so its a good radio for that as well.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by electricrc68

Thanks! Is there a cheaper servo option? That is a little steep for me. The combo is at a good price though. The main reason for the Futaba is because I also am going to be racing, so its a good radio for that as well.

As with a lot of stuff you get what you pay for. One option is to buy a stock SCX10 servo off of ebay. You can them under $15 with shipping.

Another option is the solar D772.
Solar Servo D772 High Voltage 0.17sec@7.4v 64g Digital Metal Gear

I haven't used one but in the posts it is kind of a mixed bag on the reviews. Some people really like them and others report back they only last a few runs.

[TacoCrawler]

OP...

why don't you just get the RTR ?

You can change things as they fail...
or if you get bored with them.

The RTR e stuff works good...
It's not the very best mind you...
But at least you're up and running day one.
The stock electronics hold up to 3s LiPo use/abuse...
So tho' I'd like to purchase a Swinder3 esc...
won't be doing that 'til the stock e stuff fails.

Fried my AS3 servo only a few weeks in...
was due to water intrusion tho'

Besides not being waterproof...
the plastic bearings on the output shaft need
be exchanged for bearings to make the gears last awhile.
Because of the bushing failure issue/probability...
Axial shipped me a futaba S3305 as a stock replacement.
The Futaba comes with both upper and lower bearings
on the output gear... Still not waterproof tho'
The performance specs of the S3305 are not much different from the original AS3 servo. (was an Axial warranty replacement)

I bought a Solar 772 servo to replace the S3305...
but haven't installed it for use... yet.
Disassembled it to further waterproof it...
and was just finishing that up for the install.

Did plug it in tho'.. sounds like sizzling bacon as it hunts for center.
I'll live with that little annoyance... as long as it don't burn up during the first day's use. Lol

was cheap at only $ 17.00 so I won't shed many tears if it fails.

* keep in mind...
a high torque servo would likely require the use of a BEC...
so add another $ 20. to the cost of high torque output servos.
( ^ 200 oz/in and up )

Here's a link to the D772

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

As with a lot of stuff you get what you pay for. One option is to buy a stock SCX10 servo off of ebay. You can them under $15 with shipping.

Another option is the solar D772.
Solar Servo D772 High Voltage 0.17sec@7.4v 64g Digital Metal Gear

I haven't used one but in the posts it is kind of a mixed bag on the reviews. Some people really like them and others report back they only last a few runs.

Thanks! Yes, I'm aware of you get what you pay for. A lot of low cost stuff has been good to me though.

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

OP...

why don't you just get the RTR ?

You can change things as they fail...
or if you get bored with them.

The RTR e stuff works good...
It's not the very best mind you...
But at least you're up and running day one.
The stock electronics hold up to 3s LiPo use/abuse...
So tho' I'd like to purchase a Swinder3 esc...
won't be doing that 'til the stock e stuff fails.

Fried my AS3 servo only a few weeks in...
was due to water intrusion tho'

Besides not being waterproof...
the plastic bearings on the output shaft need
be exchanged for bearings to make the gears last awhile.
Because of the bushing failure issue/probability...
Axial shipped me a futaba S3305 as a stock replacement.
The Futaba comes with both upper and lower bearings
on the output gear... Still not waterproof tho'
The performance specs of the S3305 are not much different from the original AS3 servo. (was an Axial warranty replacement)

I bought a Solar 772 servo to replace the S3305...
but haven't installed it for use... yet.
Disassembled it to further waterproof it...
and was just finishing that up for the install.

Did plug it in tho'.. sounds like sizzling bacon as it hunts for center.
I'll live with that little annoyance... as long as it don't burn up during the first day's use. Lol

was cheap at only $ 17.00 so I won't shed many tears if it fails.

* keep in mind...
a high torque servo would likely require the use of a BEC...
so add another $ 20. to the cost of high torque output servos.
( ^ 200 oz/in and up )

Here's a link to the D772

Thank you for your reply! I appreciate the information. Main reason I'm going with the kit version is because I would like to build it myself.

[csb510]

I think for scale to moderate trail/crawling you don't need a super torquey servo. As for the radio I had the 3PL and it is decent, I'd imagine the 4PLS is leaps above it.

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by csb510

I think for scale to moderate trail/crawling you don't need a super torquey servo. As for the radio I had the 3PL and it is decent, I'd imagine the 4PLS is leaps above it.

Thanks! Yeah thats what I was thinking about the servo. The solar servo doesn't look bad though.

[6sharky9]

Don't know about the Solar sevos but a Hitec HS645MG is a great replacement servo..no BEC needed..Uses bearings and a little stronger than a stock servo.

If on a budget the RTR esc is a great ESC..Its made by Castle and has plenty of power and control with a 2s battery

For a motor The Holmes Hobbies 27T or 35T are great quality brushed motors for the 35.00 dollar range.

You will get better wheel speed however with the 27T motor to help up that pesky hill or through the mud.

Gearing wise for a 27T I know first hand a 16T pinion with a stock 87T spur works great and wont overheat on you.
If you get a motor heat sink and heat sink type motor plate you can gear for even more torque.

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Don't know about the Solar sevos but a Hitec HS645MG is a great replacement servo..no BEC needed..Uses bearings and a little stronger than a stock servo.

If on a budget the RTR esc is a great ESC..Its made by Castle and has plenty of power and control with a 2s battery

For a motor The Holmes Hobbies 27T or 35T are great quality brushed motors for the 35.00 dollar range.

You will get better wheel speed however with the 27T motor to help up that pesky hill or through the mud.

Gearing wise for a 27T I know first hand a 16T pinion with a stock 87T spur works great and wont overheat on you.
If you get a motor heat sink and heat sink type motor plate you can gear for even more torque.

Thank you very much! That sounds like it would be a better choice for me. Which motor are you talking about from holmes hobbies by the way? Is this the motor you are talking about?

Holmes Hobbies LLC

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by electricrc68

Thank you very much! That sounds like it would be a better choice for me. Which motor are you talking about from holmes hobbies by the way? Is this the motor you are talking about?

Holmes Hobbies LLC

Yes..For the money you wont beat it..youll get from what ive seen amazing support as well with your purchase.

You can choose what turn you want as well for the same price I believe.

27 turn will give you the best combo of speed and torque on a 2s Battery.

35 turn will give you some added torque but take away some speed.

Anything higher is really not needed.

I cant tell you how to gear for a 35T as I haven't tried one yet in my truck..I honestly haven't felt the need for more torque than I already have with my 27T motor.
But with a 27T you can gear any where from 21T to 16T on the pinion depending how much speed or torque you want...I personally Use a 16T for my set up and love it......Nothing wrong with An RTR...Its a give and take between it and the Kit...You get upgrades with the Kit you can put on the
rtr when youre ready...You can get from what I understand an RTR right now at tower hobbies for 269 dollars with the check out coupon code and it ships free..If you go this route just check out some of the builds in the SCX10 section..A lot of us will try to get you going with some needed changes...We don't all think alike but we all have good intentions of helping those who need it or ask for it.

[Johnnysplits]

I would recommend getting a kit. RTR (ready to rebuild...ready to replace) Building it yourself allows you to build it correctly, with the parts that YOU want. You will also know it inside and out, which is very helpful for maintenance. If a vehicle is available in either RTR or kit, I always recommend the kit. The only time I would suggest a RTR is for an absolute newbie to r/c that has no clue.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

The only time I would suggest a RTR is for an absolute newbie to r/c that has no clue.

Been building kits since 92..lol...Has nothing to do with not having a clue for some to decide on an RTR..I decided based on I had no electronics
and didn't feel some of the upgrades you get were any better than RTR parts as 99 percent of the Kit is RTR plastic parts anyway..lol

what do you get?..Aluminum shocks that don't perform any better than the plastic versions?..Only half the links as upgrade?

I can agree you learn about your truck from scratch but even if you can build a kit and enjoy it its not always the best route..I can assure you Axial makes more off the kit then they do the RTR version..Where else can you get a good ESC and a 2.4 set up for 50 bucks and have your truck assembled for you?l...Links are easy and cheap to make..Again the aluminum shocks mean crap and are way over priced to buy as an upgrade...Much better shocks for a lot less $ out there.

And who can argue 269 dollars out the door

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Yes..For the money you wont beat it..youll get from what ive seen amazing support as well with your purchase.

You can choose what turn you want as well for the same price I believe.

27 turn will give you the best combo of speed and torque on a 2s Battery.

35 turn will give you some added torque but take away some speed.

Anything higher is really not needed.

I cant tell you how to gear for a 35T as I haven't tried one yet in my truck..I honestly haven't felt the need for more torque than I already have with my 27T motor.
But with a 27T you can gear any where from 21T to 16T on the pinion depending how much speed or torque you want...I personally Use a 16T for my set up and love it......Nothing wrong with An RTR...Its a give and take between it and the Kit...You get upgrades with the Kit you can put on the
rtr when youre ready...You can get from what I understand an RTR right now at tower hobbies for 269 dollars with the check out coupon code and it ships free..If you go this route just check out some of the builds in the SCX10 section..A lot of us will try to get you going with some needed changes...We don't all think alike but we all have good intentions of helping those who need it or ask for it.

Thanks! Yeah the 27T seems like a good motor since I'll be running on 2s. I'm also thinking of a 16T pinion as well. Yeah I do see the RTR for a cheap price, but I like having the removable top on the kit version. Not too much of a reason I know, but still...

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

I would recommend getting a kit. RTR (ready to rebuild...ready to replace) Building it yourself allows you to build it correctly, with the parts that YOU want. You will also know it inside and out, which is very helpful for maintenance. If a vehicle is available in either RTR or kit, I always recommend the kit. The only time I would suggest a RTR is for an absolute newbie to r/c that has no clue.

Thats another reason. So that I will know the truck. This will be my first kit build though, and I'm wondering just how tough it may be for a first time kit builder? I have three years experience in RC, but no experience in kit building.

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Been building kits since 92..lol...Has nothing to do with not having a clue for some to decide on an RTR..I decided based on I had no electronics
and didn't feel some of the upgrades you get were any better than RTR parts as 99 percent of the Kit is RTR plastic parts anyway..lol

what do you get?..Aluminum shocks that don't perform any better than the plastic versions?..Only half the links as upgrade?

I can agree you learn about your truck from scratch but even if you can build a kit and enjoy it its not always the best route..I can assure you Axial makes more off the kit then they do the RTR version..Where else can you get a good ESC and a 2.4 set up for 50 bucks and have your truck assembled for you?l...Links are easy and cheap to make..Again the aluminum shocks mean crap and are way over priced to buy as an upgrade...Much better shocks for a lot less $ out there.

And who can argue 269 dollars out the door

This makes the RTR tempting. But idk....the thing is I'm going to be changing out the radio for a Futaba anyway, and then I also would like to paint the Jeep black. I also like the removable top. Tough decision...of course, I'm not sure how long I will have the stock body on there, but its still a tough decision to make.


The trail honcho does not look bad though. I just wonder that if I went RTR, how much money I could recoup by selling the included rx/tx...

[road_rascal]

I have 3 of the Solar D772 servos in my trucks (Ridgecrest, Trail Honcho and Wheely King/Crawler King). All use a cheapo 5A BEC. I haven't fried one yet and they're still holding up well after a year.

[6sharky9]

Good luck in whatever you decide to get...make sure you get pics and show your progress

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by road_rascal

I have 3 of the Solar D772 servos in my trucks (Ridgecrest, Trail Honcho and Wheely King/Crawler King). All use a cheapo 5A BEC. I haven't fried one yet and they're still holding up well after a year.

Cool thanks! Thats good to hear. They don't sound as bad then.

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Good luck in whatever you decide to get...make sure you get pics and show your progress

Thanks! Sure will!

[Johnnysplits]

Originally Posted by electricrc68

This will be my first kit build though, and I'm wondering just how tough it may be for a first time kit builder? I have three years experience in RC, but no experience in kit building

If you can read and your brain and hands are wired together correctly, you will have no problem whatsoever assembling a kit. I would say to get aftermarket screws mainly due to the fact that their all machine threads which grip plastic a ton better than the damn wood screws that come with it. And do use all hand tools. Some people use power drivers and that's your quickest way to stripping out plastic!! Remember...we're not building 572 chevy big blocks here...in r/c, snug is tight!! Don't overtighten even when going into aluminum...blue locktite is your friend, red is your enemy!