What am I doing wrong ?

[Stickx]

I am hoping someone can shed some light on this dilemma. I had some time today to make the upper links for my rubicon and now I ran into a snag. From what I have read on here the upper links are to be the same length as the lower ones. Well I did that and now the servo hits the chassis brace..

[Lentsnh2012]

Since your battery is in the back, Just remove it from the frame.


FYI, the servo will be working extra hard due to the extreme amount of caster. Instead of your tires turning "on top" of the ground, they will be turning into the ground. This is bad- you'll need to purchase some clockable chubs or Beef Tubes to fix this.

[Stickx]

The battery tray will be moved to the front.. Just haven't got there yet..lol.. Would it be a better idea to shorten the upper links front and back ? Possibly to stock upper length ?

[Lentsnh2012]

Originally Posted by Stickx

The battery tray will be moved to the front.. Just haven't got there yet..lol.. Would it be a better idea to shorten the upper links front and back ? Possibly to stock upper length ?

Take a file or a Dremel sanding drum to the brace and take out some material so that the servo has the clearance. That way, you can keep the support for the battery tray.

The rear is fine, don't mess with it at all; The front could be shortened by 2-3mm. It'll help with the servo hitting, but you'll still have problems with the caster.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Stickx

I am hoping someone can shed some light on this dilemma. I had some time today to make the upper links for my rubicon and now I ran into a snag. From what I have read on here the upper links are to be the same length as the lower ones. Well I did that and now the servo hits the chassis brace..

where did you read the uppers and lowers are the same length? my rubicon stock links, the uppers are shorter than the lowers.. shorten your uppers enough so that the knuckles are tilted slightly rearward at the top and you will be better off.

[JeepExplorer]

FYI if you where to look up Axial's kit, the Uppers are 96mm (rod length) and the lowers are 106mm... I have found this does rotate your axle back a little bit, and if you have the clockable hubs, you can make the angles damn near perfect.

[Odd-M]

Regardless of wheelbase, the upper links in a 4 link setup on the SCX10 should be about 10mm shorter than the lower. This is with stock Axial 4 link mounting on axle. You'd also want some caster angle on the C-hubs. DO NOT try to fix this with some flimsy do-it-yourself fix with your Dremel. Use correct length links.

[Stickx]

Ok.. I will cut 10mm off of the upper links and see where it falls..

When I was researching there are a lot of guys using the same length uppers and lowers, but I don't see how ... I know the stock plastic upper links were shorter than the stock lower links..

I will post some pics tomorrow once I get them shortened..

[Stickx]

Also I was thinking about removing the shock limiter but I have seen mixed reviews.. If I remove them what else will need to be done to the truck in order to allow the travel ? Because as I look at the truck now, if I remove them I will run into problems with the servo and steering linkages all over again..

[Jcplante]

Once you shorten the uppers you should be OK to remove the limiters. If you get problems with things hitting you can cut them down smaller to max out ur travel right before it hits. Also a cms would solve ur servo hitting issues. Its not a hard thing to make your self either. But you will need to go back to 3 link front and a panhard bar. It looks a lot better after tho.

[Stickx]

I couldn't take it anymore.. So I cut 8mm off each of the top links.. Everything fits now

[Jcplante]

Drive shaft angle looks a little steep now to me but it might be OK. Careful if you get in a bind tho. There is more leverage on that joint now. You might blow a driveshaft that way

[Stickx]

They are at stock angles.. By me taking 8mm off it put everything at stock lengths so the driveshaft angles are same as stock.. I may make another set up 3mm longer and see where they sit.. Because I really didn't care for the stock angles on the driveshafts.. But I will have these ones if all else fails..

[mr lee]

Swap your drive shafts around so the female side is mounted to the axle input!

[Stickx]

Mr lee ... What are the benefits of swapping them around ?

[DAHSEHONDA]

Less chance of rocks and dirt cutting up the splines on the driveshafts and making them bind up instead of slide freely.

[98sporttj]

I almost would have left the rear the way it was drive shaft angle was perfect and just gone 4mm on the ft instead of 8 and seen where she sat


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[JesterSpec]

Originally Posted by DAHSEHONDA

Less chance of rocks and dirt cutting up the splines on the driveshafts and making them bind up instead of slide freely.

Considering that the drive shaft only uses around 1/8" of travel, this would not make any difference.

I run my male on the axle and female on the trans- reason is when I'm in water, I don't want the female full of water all the time.

I also fill my male part of the shaft with all thread to help stiffen it.

[Arctic Fire]

Just opinions of course, not instructions or rules. The rear only needed 2-4mm to be absolutely perfect. Front, maybe 4-5mm. The front angle seems steep now (I find the factory angle steep)

It's amazing how such small increments can change things so drastically. I would leave it how you have it now, but remember for next time

as for the shock limiter, if the rig is heavy, leave it on, light rig, take it off. The logic? a heavy rig can bound down onto the shock pretty hard blowing a cap, light rigs never seem to make it that far. I have relevant experience with this. Blew 3 shock caps on my heavy CGR bronco before thinking to put the limiters back in, since then, no problems at all. That is what they are designed to help with, despite what others may say.

If you have battery up front, and your sprung weight is front heavy, just take them off the backs. I found this worked fine for me too, as all three times I blew front shock caps, the rig was coming off a drop front first (picture a log or a 6" drop)

[chattinfarms]

Don't flip the driveshafts. At full compression which is very rare in real life driving would you use most of the exposed spline. When you flip your dshafts you basically make a tube to fill up with crap and then they start sticking badly