and so it starts... have my machine :)

[mr lee]

.....my venture into another RC discipline

I have been on this site for around 8 months or so now, asking questions and researching the diiferent options and possibilities with this platform, and have finally pulled the trigger . Thanks to all for answering the questions and providing some guidance here and there. I was also looking into the Wraith but decided that the SCX was more what I wanted.

Grocery list:

SCX10 Dingo kit
Tekin FXR 45T motor/esc combo
Hitec HS5645-MG
Axial 8-hole 1.9" beadlocks black
Axial 7x60mm posts
Axial 7x20mm posts
Axial 3-link connector
Proline Jeep wrangler 2 door

I have had the Jeep body for nearly 5 months now. Saw it at my LHS and decided to grab it while I could.

The posts and 3-link connector are to make up the aluminium upper links as the new kit only comes with a plastic upper front and rear links. I will start by making the front a 3-link and the rear a 4-link and then see about changing the front to a 4. I am not so keen on the way the steering servo plate comes in contact with the front uppers in the 4-link configuration but I suppose I will be a better judge when I get it together.

Going to run the kit 20/87 pinion/spur with the 45T and see how it goes. I was trying to weight up the 35T and 45T but as I was leaning more towards the crawlability of the rig, went with the 45T.

Also got a 14T pinion as well if I want to slow it down even more .
If I need more wheel speed I will run a 27T silver can with 14/87. It will be a little slower than the RTR with the 20/87 but a little more torquey and still have some wheel speed.

I did see that most use the 35T for trailing but they opt for a 3s setup as well.

3s is not an option for me as I want to run the stick pack lipo's I already have for racing. The other reason why I wanted to go with the FXR esc is that the BEC is rated at 6V 3A so I do not have to run an external BEC. Keeping it simple and affordable.....if that word actually exists in the RC hobby at all

Now for the wait......

[mr lee]

So while I wait for things to get here I thought I would add a little to this thread

Apart from the hop ups (you can tell I am from a racing background ) or mods listed above, aluminium upper links - 4 linked rear - beadlocks, I will do the following mods while putting it together:

1. Mirror transmission.
2. Leave out shock bump stops.
3. Flip servo over 180 degrees to have the splined output on the right side instead of the left to get more weight that side which should help reduce torque twist (haven't seen anyone do this yet but I am sure it is possible, even though it may only make a difference of a couple of grams). Basically mirroring the steering link setup as per the instructions .

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by mr lee

So while I wait for things to get here I thought I would add a little to this thread

Apart from the hop ups (you can tell I am from a racing background ) or mods listed above, aluminium upper links - 4 linked rear - beadlocks, I will do the following mods while putting it together:

1. Mirror transmission.
2. Leave out shock bump stops.
3. Flip servo over 180 degrees to have the splined output on the right side instead of the left to get more weight that side which should help reduce torque twist (haven't seen anyone do this yet but I am sure it is possible, even though it may only make a difference of a couple of grams). Basically mirroring the steering link setup as per the instructions .

Checked when I built mine and the servo is heavier on the side opposite the splined output shaft...don't think the aluminum steering link is heavy enough to offset the servo weight.

[mr lee]

Ok thanks, will look into that. If it is not going to make a difference then I will leave it as per the original way

[mr lee]

Received my new toys yesterday. Am super excited

At the time of placing the order there were no 7x20mm posts in grey so I went with the green ones. If I don't like them I can always just paint then black or grey or colour them in with a black permamnent marker .





Messed around with the beadlocks and got one mounted up to see how they look against the Walker evens glue-on wheels....







One good reason to have beadlocks....they are almost 20grams heavier than the kit wheels. Note that I only have 2 screws per ring here so adding the complete set should add another 2 grams. Not a lot but it is better than nothing if not additional weight is added!







Now I just need to get my Tamiya cup cars off the bench so I can start putting it together

[Titus]

Glad to see you starting to get yours built. race to you a finish...?

Cheers
T

[throttlejock27]

Originally Posted by Titus

Glad to see you starting to get yours built. race to you a finish...?

Cheers
T

You will never finish. You will always want to add more

[natskiboy]

^^ True. I started building mine then I thought about upgrading some parts in the middle of the build so now Im waiting for parts again.. LOL

[mr lee]

Originally Posted by natskiboy

^^ True. I started building mine then I thought about upgrading some parts in the middle of the build so now Im waiting for parts again.. LOL

he he...that is why I got as much as I could afford that I thought I would need from the get go. I hate stripping things down after putting them together....unless it is to repair

[mr lee]

So I noticed something that put me off a little. I know there are some mistakes in the instructions but kind of expected everything to at least fit where it is supposed to.....

The diff gasket holes do not line up with the holes in the diff casing and diff gear. The holes are arranged in a rectangular shape and not square as the gasket is supplied. You can open the holes a little or just force the screw past the gasket. Not really the right way but it works!

There is also no cut-out for the locating pins that key the diff gear to the diff casing. This is no biggie as I just cut them but it was irritating

Does Axial not build their new kits and make sure that everything fits correctly before releasing them?

[Thingsandstuff]

Originally Posted by mr lee

So I noticed something that put me off a little. I know there are some mistakes in the instructions but kind of expected everything to at least fit where it is supposed to.....

The diff gasket holes do not line up with the holes in the diff casing and diff gear. The holes are arranged in a rectangular shape and not square as the gasket is supplied. You can open the holes a little or just force the screw past the gasket. Not really the right way but it works!

There is also no cut-out for the locating pins that key the diff gear to the diff casing. This is no biggie as I just cut them but it was irritating

Does Axial not build their new kits and make sure that everything fits correctly before releasing them?

Probably just a random defect. Mine fit perfectly. Can't wait to see it finished!

[josborne024]

I see you have pulled the trigger , now back to the servo plate on my honcho I did four link the front and it dose not touch the plate its close at full flex but dosent hit on the dingo I don't know its a shorter wheel base so good luck and ill be following your build

[mr lee]

Thanks for letting me know Jos!

I have decided to do the front in a 3 link config at first and see how it goes. The rear will definately be 4 linked.

I have also seen that if I am to use the 4 link bracket on the axles that I need two additional M3x8 self tapping rounded hex head screws per axle, which there are no extra's included in the kit. Will have to visit the local HW store and see what is available.

Semi built one of the axles this morning.....wish I had more time to do more!

[josborne024]

That's my only problem not enough time in the day :(

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

[mr lee]

Which way do you all install your drive shafts?

The instructions show to have the splined part exposed towards the bottom end but this would mean that if it rubs against a rock that it would deform the splines thus hampering the inward and outward movement!

One reason I can think of why they have it like this would be that if dirt or sand were to go up that it would not neccessarily stay there whereas if they were mounted oposite to the instructions they may hold the dirt, which over time may cause it to stick!

Any thoughts or advice?

[steele42]

Originally Posted by mr lee

Which way do you all install your drive shafts?

The instructions show to have the splined part exposed towards the bottom end but this would mean that if it rubs against a rock that it would deform the splines thus hampering the inward and outward movement!

One reason I can think of why they have it like this would be that if dirt or sand were to go up that it would not neccessarily stay there whereas if they were mounted oposite to the instructions they may hold the dirt, which over time may cause it to stick!

Any thoughts or advice?

Both valid points. I am also interested in what everyone else thinks. In theory they are both important things to avoid, but after having two scx10 rigs for the past 8 months and spinning the drive shafts on rocks all the time, I am yet to have hurt any splines. Mine are installed with the splines down.

[TrailDawg362]

If you install them with the female end near the axles, there's a slightly less chance of hangups on the rocks and the beefier end will take most of the abuse. Just my thoughts on it .

[mr lee]

Axles done. Purchased some M3x6mm pan head hex screws to plug the holes where the four link bracket normally mounts for the front axle. If not done and you drive through water the entire axle housing will fill up with water.
Got some M3x8mm screws of the same type for either end of the 4 link bracket of the rear axle. These mentioned screws are not included in the new Dingo kit.
Also needed an M3x30mm screw and lock nut to join the upper links to the four link bracket.

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Links done. Going to leave the green and decided not to colour it in.

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Steering links and shocks done. Servo mounted, flipped it over so the link is on the right hand side to help with the reduction of torque twist. Mounted the female part of the drive shaft on the axle side after above feedback and seeing some pics based on my reasoning above. Used the shock caps without the fake reservoir as I didn't like the fake look and also to reduce further top weight (only a couple of grams but it all adds up)!

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Basic frame finished. While putting the gearbox together in the mirrored configuration I realized that it is NOT possible with the new enclosed spur /pinion cover that is included in this kit and the new Honcho RTR (cover used from the Wraith platform). It has to be built as per the instructions. Flipping the transmission is the only option unless the cover and cover mount are left off thereby having the same open design that the older kits and RTR's had. I opted to use the cover so had to flip the transmission. The weight of the motor is now on the right side but the motor weight is moved slightly rearward!

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Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.....it is always handy

[mr lee]

I have some more questions....

Anyone notice that the front wheels will have quite a bit of toe-in with the kit steering link?

Is it better to have more toe-in for a crawler?

I have also noticed that the inner wheel will turn more than the outer (Ackerman). Is this also an advantage in crawling?

[natskiboy]

Hey man, we are on the same build steps. Thanks for clearing up the mirrored transmission, I do want to keep my tranny cover so I will use the orig config.

I noticed you went 3 link front and 4 way rear. I decided to go 4 way all around but noticed the servo plate touching the arms a bit but I have not finished building yet to see if it will bind