Built my first rig, need some pointers

[Xoliul]

Hey guys, I hope I get some responses despite the total noob title. I just finished my SCX10 Honcho chassis build, just aesthetic stuff is left now.
I ran into some issues here and there, so I'll ask them all in one thread:

• The Y link connection point near the motor is blocked off by my Axial 27T motor. I can't get the nut on. What is up with that, this is an official recommended motor? See picture:
  
• Filling the (stock) shocks with oil is ... a very imprecise science. I don't think mine are actually dampening as they should, since they work like springs too (the more they compress the more they push back). The amount of oil I put in obviously made a huge difference, if I filled to the edge they would be almost impossible to compress. I just used the 30WT that came with it. I kind of expected these to work better...
  I'm thinking either the oil is too thick, or the slots in the damper piston are too small? Or should i just get new shocks?
• Not really SCX10 specific, but: i have a FlySky FSGt2B transmitter and a Hobbywing 1060WP. If the transmitter is turned off before the ESC is, it goes full throttle. WTF? I'm worried it's going to run off a cliff if my transmitter batteries die at some point. What can i do to just make it do err, nothing?
• Stock gearing and a 27T is a bit faster than I would like (like jogging speed). What pinion should I get to reduce this a bit?
• I really dislike the wheels that require glueing, feels really cheap compared to the rest of the kit. What's a good set of beadlock wheels? ProLine Denali?

[lonleycreeper]

[QUOTE=Xoliul;4942155]Hey guys, I hope I get some responses despite the total noob title. I just finished my SCX10 Honcho chassis build, just aesthetic stuff is left now.
I ran into some issues here and there, so I'll ask them all in one thread:

[LIST][*]The Y link connection point near the motor is blocked off by my Axial 27T motor. I can't get the nut on. What is up with that, this is an official recommended motor? See picture:


1) I usually mount the transmission and drive shafts after I mount the links.

[*]Filling the (stock) shocks with oil is ... a very imprecise science. I don't think mine are actually dampening as they should, since they work like springs too (the more they compress the more they push back). The amount of oil I put in obviously made a huge difference, if I filled to the edge they would be almost impossible to compress. I just used the 30WT that came with it. I kind of expected these to work better...

2)It actually is a precise science. Once you have shocks built\assembled you put a small amount of oil in, move the piston up to the top of the oil but not out of it. Add more oil and move the piston up and down a couple of times to remove air bubbles. Add more oil continuing to move the piston until the oil is near the top. Put the cap on and move the piston some more. You know when the shock is built and filled correctly when you push the shaft into the body and it rebounds approx a 1\4 inch.


I'm thinking either the oil is too thick, or the slots in the damper piston are too small? Or should i just get new shocks?[*]Not really SCX10 specific, but: i have a FlySky FSGt2B transmitter and a Hobbywing 1060WP. If the transmitter is turned off before the ESC is, it goes full throttle. WTF? I'm worried it's going to run off a cliff if my transmitter batteries die at some point. What can i do to just make it do err, nothing?
3) Recalibrate the esc.

[*]Stock gearing and a 27T is a bit faster than I would like (like jogging speed). What pinion should I get to reduce this a bit?
4)10 t pinion 58t spur (32pitch) 15\87 (48pitch)

[*]I really dislike the wheels that require glueing, feels really cheap compared to the rest of the kit. What's a good set of beadlock wheels? ProLine Denali?
5) Nothing wrong with proline beadlocks, personally I like the axial beadlocks $18 or so for a chrome pair.