Deadbolt SCX10ii - Dazed and confused

[Flattie]

Hello

Like many here I am not a rookie. My first exposure to the RC world was in the early 90's. Panda Stadium Racer, Tamiya Blackfoot, Losi LXT which I raced weekly, and my favorite an OG Tamiya Bruiser that is still all there.

I recently jumped back into this by purchasing the Deadbolt SCX10ii. It sat for months without being running it. I wouldn't say I have buyer's remorse. I know there are better kits out there and I admittedly wish I would have bought a kit, or the trail honcho. But it tis what it tis.

As a side note I am watching the series on youtube about the budget trail honcho build. A lot of it carries over. I have several questions because I have purchased incorrect parts because I didn't relize there is a Deadbolt one and two

1. The axles are "different" than the older versions so
a. what is the correct metal diff covers, I can't find the correct ones
and have purchased the wrong one.
b. I don't understand which brass axle weights are correct. I just
need something that fits correctly. I feel I need a lower COG.
2. Shocks - are the traxxas big bores really the way to go, or are there better bang for the buck options. These shocks leak live a sieve and I have only ran one battery pack. I did the spring swap and moved the front lower mounts to the lower link area like the axial blog says to do. I hated it. It rubbed so bad, and nose dove. So for now I put it back.
3. Motor - I purchased a HOMES HOBBIES 35T torque master. Did I waste my money. I was misunderstanding and didn't realize I had a 35T motor. Live and learn.
4. Two speed trans - I purchased the xtra speed 2 speed kit. Again, did I waste money? I am not sure it works with transmission.
5. Sorry.... Trans gears, I keep reading about the $7 metal gear upgrade, but my head is spinning on what to purchase. I reached out the horizon hobbies and got an absolute canned response and said replace with the plastic gears.
6. Last one I swear - locker upgrade. So if the axles are locked, what is the screw upgrade I keep reading about?
I am not a forum poster by rule, but folks I am stumped. As a background I am a 1:1 scale off roader, with a decently built 1948 CJ2a.

My head is spinning and I am now feeling there are 2 classes of of SCX10ii, the "real ones" , and the Trail Honcho/Deadbolt

If need be, flame away, but I have read 20 pages or more back on the newbie section and this section. And have SEARCHED

[SStone]

Here are the “seven dollar” gears.

Part number - AX31585

https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...ctCode=AX31585


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[Flattie]

Originally Posted by sstone

here are the “seven dollar” gears.

https://www.rpphobby.com/productdeta...ctcode=ax31585


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awesome!!!!! Thank you

[revin9k]

I dont know the answer to all your questions but I would bet that the 35t motor from Hh has way more torque and better quality that whatever came in your kit. I would not consider that a loss at all. Secondly where is this axial blog you are talking about? I just bought a scx10ii kit and would love to read about upgrades and tricks. I agree with you on the shocks, just poor quality. I think in will either use my old losi xxxt shocks or buy some boom racing piggie back shocks.

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[Col_Sanders]

Originally Posted by Flattie

Hello

Like many here I am not a rookie. My first exposure to the RC world was in the early 90's. Panda Stadium Racer, Tamiya Blackfoot, Losi LXT which I raced weekly, and my favorite an OG Tamiya Bruiser that is still all there.

I recently jumped back into this by purchasing the Deadbolt SCX10ii. It sat for months without being running it. I wouldn't say I have buyer's remorse. I know there are better kits out there and I admittedly wish I would have bought a kit, or the trail honcho. But it tis what it tis.

As a side note I am watching the series on youtube about the budget trail honcho build. A lot of it carries over. I have several questions because I have purchased incorrect parts because I didn't relize there is a Deadbolt one and two

1. The axles are "different" than the older versions so
a. what is the correct metal diff covers, I can't find the correct ones
and have purchased the wrong one.
b. I don't understand which brass axle weights are correct. I just
need something that fits correctly. I feel I need a lower COG.
2. Shocks - are the traxxas big bores really the way to go, or are there better bang for the buck options. These shocks leak live a sieve and I have only ran one battery pack. I did the spring swap and moved the front lower mounts to the lower link area like the axial blog says to do. I hated it. It rubbed so bad, and nose dove. So for now I put it back.
3. Motor - I purchased a HOMES HOBBIES 35T torque master. Did I waste my money. I was misunderstanding and didn't realize I had a 35T motor. Live and learn.
4. Two speed trans - I purchased the xtra speed 2 speed kit. Again, did I waste money? I am not sure it works with transmission.
5. Sorry.... Trans gears, I keep reading about the $7 metal gear upgrade, but my head is spinning on what to purchase. I reached out the horizon hobbies and got an absolute canned response and said replace with the plastic gears.
6. Last one I swear - locker upgrade. So if the axles are locked, what is the screw upgrade I keep reading about?
I am not a forum poster by rule, but folks I am stumped. As a background I am a 1:1 scale off roader, with a decently built 1948 CJ2a.

My head is spinning and I am now feeling there are 2 classes of of SCX10ii, the "real ones" , and the Trail Honcho/Deadbolt

If need be, flame away, but I have read 20 pages or more back on the newbie section and this section. And have SEARCHED

This is one thing that is so messed up about Axial...The fact that they run so many different transmission setups and axle housing setups on the same line of trucks it can get confusing.

1. You have an SCX10 II, so any SCX10 II/AR44 axle parts should work. If you want to add weight to the axle itself, you have to buy the entire housing. Beef Tubes sells axle housings with brass tubes inside, SSD has some nice housings, so does Vanquish. There are also other housings from various overseas manufacturers. Depending on which housings you buy, you may have to buy C Hubs as well. Some housings have them built in, some don't.
2. Big Bores are the best bang for the buck. DLux Fab sells some that are modified and they are awesome. Pro-Lines are popular, but expensive and mine have all leaked.
3. You did not waste your money. HH builds motors that are far superior to Axial's. It will be a bit smoother and have more torque. 35T is a good turn for a 10.2.
4. Again with Axial's weird mix and match crap...The KIT has a different transmission. It is 2 speed capable with some add on parts that various companies sell. The parts for that trans will not work on the RTR trans.
5. There are various gear sets available that replace all 3 gears or you can just buy the steel idler gear. Any SCX10/AX10 transmission gear set will work. I have used Robinson Racing and Hot Racing with good luck.
6. Yay, more screwy Axial mix and match....The Deadbolt (and Honcho) have a different ring gear and locker setup. It is one piece, where the others have a locker that screws to the ring gear. As such, you do not need the screw upgrade. The kind that screw together are more durable, as they are hardened machined steel vs sintered metal. If you do decide to upgrade to those, you will need the ring and pinion, along with lockers. Vanquish makes a set that uses 6 screws instead of 3. Obviously that will be more durable than the 3 screw type.

[Flattie]

Originally Posted by Col_Sanders

This is one thing that is so messed up about Axial...The fact that they run so many different transmission setups and axle housing setups on the same line of trucks it can get confusing.

1. You have an SCX10 II, so any SCX10 II/AR44 axle parts should work. If you want to add weight to the axle itself, you have to buy the entire housing. Beef Tubes sells axle housings with brass tubes inside, SSD has some nice housings, so does Vanquish. There are also other housings from various overseas manufacturers. Depending on which housings you buy, you may have to buy C Hubs as well. Some housings have them built in, some don't.
2. Big Bores are the best bang for the buck. DLux Fab sells some that are modified and they are awesome. Pro-Lines are popular, but expensive and mine have all leaked.
3. You did not waste your money. HH builds motors that are far superior to Axial's. It will be a bit smoother and have more torque. 35T is a good turn for a 10.2.
4. Again with Axial's weird mix and match crap...The KIT has a different transmission. It is 2 speed capable with some add on parts that various companies sell. The parts for that trans will not work on the RTR trans.
5. There are various gear sets available that replace all 3 gears or you can just buy the steel idler gear. Any SCX10/AX10 transmission gear set will work. I have used Robinson Racing and Hot Racing with good luck.
6. Yay, more screwy Axial mix and match....The Deadbolt (and Honcho) have a different ring gear and locker setup. It is one piece, where the others have a locker that screws to the ring gear. As such, you do not need the screw upgrade. The kind that screw together are more durable, as they are hardened machined steel vs sintered metal. If you do decide to upgrade to those, you will need the ring and pinion, along with lockers. Vanquish makes a set that uses 6 screws instead of 3. Obviously that will be more durable than the 3 screw type.

Amazing information! Thank you for taking the time to clearly explain all that.

[Flattie]

Originally Posted by revin9k

I dont know the answer to all your questions but I would bet that the 35t motor from Hh has way more torque and better quality that whatever came in your kit. I would not consider that a loss at all. Secondly where is this axial blog you are talking about? I just bought a scx10ii kit and would love to read about upgrades and tricks. I agree with you on the shocks, just poor quality. I think in will either use my old losi xxxt shocks or buy some boom racing piggie back shocks.

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Totally missed this. Did you find the blog on Axial's website?

[lszomb]

Originally Posted by Flattie

Totally missed this. Did you find the blog on Axial's website?

I believe this is the link to the blog:

Axial Racing - SCX10 II Handling Adjustment – $3 Shock Mod

I did not try it personally 'yet'

[revin9k]

Originally Posted by Flattie

Totally missed this. Did you find the blog on Axial's website?

I did actually go hunting for it. Thank you for putting the blog out there

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[Flattie]

Originally Posted by lszomb

I believe this is the link to the blog:

Axial Racing - SCX10 II Handling Adjustment – $3 Shock Mod

I did not try it personally 'yet'

Yes there is that one, and this one:
scx10 II suspension mod | Axial Racing Blog

If you read through them in order
($3 mod, then the free mod) you can do them both at the same time.

I put the longer links in the rear to extend the wheel base to the same as the Honcho. I think this makes the rear shocks lean too far. So I moving them rearward one hole.

I also lowered the body posts, after I sucked the bumper in by trimming it. Then basically cut the front of the body even with the grill sticker. I then trimmed the "doors" level with the side skids. So there is a lot less body now and sits more "real".

I have found a lot of good info reading and watching on youtube about the SXC10ii Honcho budget builds. I DO NOT have money to toss at it right now. So I am going to use it as is and go...

[Bubba02STi]

The shocks on my deadbolt leaked pretty bad as well. So much so l, that once I got around to rebuilding them, one of them was nearly dry. Get fresh oil, new o rings and some green slime.

The o rings are AXA1179 $3.99
25wt oil for the front $5.99
30wt oil for the rear $5.99
Green slime $2.49

The rebuild is cake, and has made a huge difference as the shocks don’t leak anymore. I’ve also swapped my front and rear springs. Undecided on how I feel about that right now but you may want to give it a shot. I also added a small washer (not sure on size) to the top mount of the shock to help take stress off the rears, as I noticed they were slightly bowed in after swapping and pushing the mounts forward. This is going to get me by until I decide to drop the $100 on the set of 8 big bores or something else. Especially now since I’m replacing the transmission and motor with a torque masters as well.

Sounds like we are at similar points in our builds. One thing that really helped with lowering my COG was a set of metal beadlocks and adding wheel weights. I’m still running the factory tires as they seem to work out well enough for now.

[Flattie]

Originally Posted by Bubba02STi

The shocks on my deadbolt leaked pretty bad as well. So much so l, that once I got around to rebuilding them, one of them was nearly dry. Get fresh oil, new o rings and some green slime.

The o rings are AXA1179 $3.99
25wt oil for the front $5.99
30wt oil for the rear $5.99
Green slime $2.49

The rebuild is cake, and has made a huge difference as the shocks don’t leak anymore. I’ve also swapped my front and rear springs. Undecided on how I feel about that right now but you may want to give it a shot. I also added a small washer (not sure on size) to the top mount of the shock to help take stress off the rears, as I noticed they were slightly bowed in after swapping and pushing the mounts forward. This is going to get me by until I decide to drop the $100 on the set of 8 big bores or something else. Especially now since I’m replacing the transmission and motor with a torque masters as well.

Sounds like we are at similar points in our builds. One thing that really helped with lowering my COG was a set of metal beadlocks and adding wheel weights. I’m still running the factory tires as they seem to work out well enough for now.

Can you share what metal bead locks you used ?

[Bubba02STi]

They are injora 1.9’s. $40 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDG4X5P..._4dM6BbAHN15WA

The center caps don’t don’t fit over the axle nut but the facory caps will and it still looks pretty clean. Be careful with tightening the bead lock ring down and use plenty of loctite.

[Flattie]

Originally Posted by Bubba02STi

They are injora 1.9’s. $40 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDG4X5P..._4dM6BbAHN15WA

The center caps don’t don’t fit over the axle nut but the facory caps will and it still looks pretty clean. Be careful with tightening the bead lock ring down and use plenty of loctite.

I have been following your build as well. Nice work! I love those wheels.

[Thloftus]

I’ve had really great luck with Traxxas shocks for the TRX-4. Well made, use x-rings rather than o-rings (never had any problems with leaks), and have a variety of spring sets. There are decent deals on eBay, probably from kitted out trucks. Here’s one example, I’ve seen them for $5-10 less from other sellers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-TRX...MAAOSw~jpbMVQX

I think the big bores are nominally for the Slash. I used the plastic-bodied version on a v1 SCX10 and was really happy with the performance. The aluminum bodied versions and only slightly more - probably the better buy, but I didn’t understand this at the time.

Good luck with the mods! It’s a great platform and has been a lot of fun for us.



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[Thloftus]

Originally Posted by Col_Sanders

2. Big Bores are the best bang for the buck. DLux Fab sells some that are modified and they are awesome. Pro-Lines are popular, but expensive and mine have all leaked.

Can you give a link for the modified Big Bores at DLux? I searched their website and found big bores, but none called out as modified. Probably just missed it, I’m not the greatest internet genius ever, Lol!

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[Bubba02STi]

Originally Posted by Flattie

I have been following your build as well. Nice work! I love those wheels.

Thanks.

I’ve since switched up my shock set up. I’m now running these.