Zero ****s scx10 ll

[Six20]

New to the scale crawler hobby. Didn’t even know it was a thing. Bought used honcho and starting messing around with it in the garage after work. I work at a full scale fab shop building chassis’ and hot rods so it’s all the same, just scaled down. It came with g transition shocks and steel tranny gears. Made some links on my mini lathe and, tig welded a rear cage and some rock sliders. Ordered some china bead locks and China super swamper tires. Squirted on some paint I had laying around and there we go. Eventually I’d like to make a full tube frame for it but I like the scale looks of the ladder frame for now. Need to make a front bumper / stinger. I’d like to up grade the axles and possibly a 2 speed tranny. Any recommendations?

[JatoTheRipper]

Welcome to this awesome hobby! A lot of us are or were 1:1 vehicle nuts.

Leave the axles alone until they break. No reason to upgrade them. If you insist then checkout SSD. They have nice options If you want aluminum places like Boom Racing and other, typically lower quality Chinese outlets have aluminum parts.

If this was the Honcho you're going to have to upgrade the entire transmission instead of just adding a 2-speed kit. SSD makes a nice 2-speed kit that has been out long before Axial's recently released kit. You don't need 2-speed though if you have a good brushless motor system.

[Six20]

Thanks for the info on trannies The front axle seems awfully sloppy, the left side (king pins? I don’t k ow what they are in RC terms) are striped on the actual housing and the one of the rear shafts has a wobble to it. But I’ll for sure keep them until they fall apart then run something else.

How much does a brushless motor set up run? Would I have to change the speed controller as well?


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[Six20]

Here’s a few pictures on the pile of dirt behind the shop.




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[HumboldtEF]

I know you said you're replacing the tires but the Proline Hyrax tires you have on it now are really good performing and very popular, they aren't scale, theres no real world version so its lacking in that respect if you care.

I have no idea what you've got coming from China but just remember if you're not satisfied that the original tires are great performers.


Oh and when I read the tittle I immediately thought of the Zero F**** Given RX-7

[Six20]

Tires-

4PCS Super Larger 4.7 Inch Outer Diameter RC Crawler Tires,1.9 Inch Tires for Axial SCX10 90047 RC4WD D90 D110 TF2 Tamiya CC01 Traxxas TRX-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S221P5..._o1.rBbS0BVG71


Wheels-


RCLIONS Aluminum 1.9inch RC Beadlock 12 Spokes Wheels/Rims for 1/10th RC Crawler Axi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6YVWUG..._XX.rBbGN2CRE8

These are what I replaced the stock wheels with. I’m assuming they are copies of the tires you mentioned. I was impressed with the quality of wheels.


And that’s exactly what I was thinking. I noticed a lot of people naming their rigs so the ZFG rx7 came to mind. I work building $200k cars for customers but all my personal builds are shoe string budget make it work. That’s what I’m going for with this truck.

[HumboldtEF]

Damn they fooled me, I didn't look close enough.

[Six20]

It was worth the $25 gamble for 4 tires. I think they work well.


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[TheLetterJ]

There was a youngin' at our last local comp (timed/scored, but really just for bragging rights 'til the next one) that had those same Chinese tires and similar wheels on an otherwise stock 10.2 Honcho. I was surprised how well they worked, and he was able to finish mid-pack out of 17 entries. I have the 2.2 version of the Hyrax, but I'd totally rock those Chinese tires... shave the sidewalls and nobody would know the difference!

One of the downsides to the one piece Honcho axle housings is that you have to replace the entire housing once you've stripped a c-hub (the part that the kingpin screw threads into.) Other versions of the "AR44" axle had separate c-hubs. Consider it your golden opportunity to switch to SSD's Pro44 housings and aluminum c-hubs: Diamond Pro Axle Case for SCX10 II or just go the tightwad route and put a drop of superglue on the threads right before you drive the screw home.

Yes, when going brushless you will need a new esc as well. If you still intend to crawl with it, you'll want a GOOD sensored system, or just stay brushed, or you'll just end up frustrated. Honestly, crawlers are one of the last forms of rc where brushed motors are still the norm, and perfectly adequate. A 550 sized brushed motor on 3s can give you enough oomph to easily find the chassis' limitations, but still be buttery smooth at small throttle openings. What kind of budget do you want to put on your power system?

[dacaur]

I agree, there is no good reason to go brushless on a crawler. You will just break more parts, and have less throttle control. put the money into a good servo and tires.
Tires are, IMO, the #1 most important part of the crawler (other than the nut that holds the steering wheel) The best brushless setup, bling axles, pefect link geometry, all usless if you skimp on the one part of your truck that (is supposed to) touches the ground.....

[Six20]

Thanks for the info, maybe I’ll hold off on upgrading electronics until these shit the bed. Messing airing with it I did notice that a rear axle shaft is bent and a few bearings are trashed. Going to order some part. In the mean time put together a rear shock tower brace and mounted a spare to it.




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[Six20]

Last time I was at the LHS there was a bargain bin with a bunch of helion parts. Found some trailing arms for $7 and figured why not, I wanted to put them on my wraith when the new chassis comes in. They were way too short so I ended up putting them on my SCX10. They ended up fitting with some adjusting. Made some new upper links and played with the mounting points. I know loads of flex isn’t the best but it looks cool wrapped out on a PBR none the less.








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