TD's SCX-10 II XJ

[Techno Duck]

It all started when my friend sent me some pictures of a TRX-4 at the LA Auto Show. The locking diffs, scale axles really peaked my interest. The last RC's i had were the original E-Maxx and a Associated TC-3 over 10 years ago. I was amazed how much things changed and RC crawling intrigued me. I like the slower pace now... . When i sold my TC-3, it was sporting the just released Novak SS brushless setup and NiMH packs from Ballistic Batteries were still the hot setup!

After much debate i decided to go with the SCX-10 II. Ive only put about 4 or 5 packs through it and I'm still scoping out good spots in my area.

For powertrain, i went with a Castle Mamba X and a 2850kv brushless setup from the start. Servo is a SAVOX SA-1230SG powered by a Castle BEC set at 8v. I also got some metal beadlock wheels from INJORA. They are well made and a nice part... just make sure you loctite all the screws, i lost a bunch my first time out!

Here was my first time out with it,











I ran it this way for a little while, then started getting the mod bug . I added LED's to try and step up my scale game... some of the builds on here really amazed me. The only thing i did was put some HVAC foil tape in the headlight and turn signal buckets to give it a more even light across the lenses.

I also put on a Vanquish motor plate; the threaded holes on the plastic one were cracked, my fault for over torquing. Also i did what many have probably done and cracked the threaded hole for the spur gear cover when i screwed everything together.

[Techno Duck]

I just finished up a bunch of mods to address some of the things that were bugging me.

Despite my best efforts to be careful building them, my stock shocks were starting to leak a little. After a bunch of research, i opted to replace them with a set of take off TRX-4 shocks i got off eBay. I opened one shock cap and was surprised to see some very fine metal shavings inside from the manufacturing process. I opted to take all of them apart, clean out the metal shavings (which were was a bunch!) and refilled with 30wt oil.

I put the original Axial springs on the TRX-4 shocks. My subjective opinion is the TRX-4 shocks are much smoother and i think are an upgrade over the stock aluminum kit shocks.





I also experimented also with swapping the springs front to rear, and putting the rear shocks to a laydown angle as explained on the Axial Blog. I felt this left the suspension too soft. I dont think my rig is much heavier than anyone elses, but i thought it was sagging way too much. Also, my rig leans to the left due to my electronics placement; so i really had to crank down on the spring collars to get the ride height even. I opted to move everything back to stock. I did however move the lower shock mount to the lower link mount thats also explained on the Axial Blog... this mod i liked to help lower the CG.



One of the things that bugged me about the kit were the links. It has aluminum links, but the all plastic ends i didnt like. After just a few packs, my steering links had a bunch of play in them already. So i went with all SSD chassis and steering links. The steel lower / titanium uppers are a nice touch. My only complaint is how everything is packaged. I bought the chassis links and the steering kit. At the end i was missing the pan hard bar. So i had to buy the steering and panhard kit to get that. Just an FYI, the steering and pan hard bars are the exact same part with the same rod ends used. I just wish SSD would have packaged the pan hard bar with either of those kits. Right now i have a spare steering (or pan hard link) that i have no use for. With the new links, the entire chassis feels so much more solid.





As others have experienced before, the stock bumpers catch on everything. So i modded them a little to tuck them in. The front bumper was tucked in by about .75" and the rear about .25". The rear bumper required trimming the bracing a little. This was super easy with a sharp razor blade.









The front bumper required trimming the ends to clear the tires when the suspension was at full articulation.










The stock tires left alot to be desired, they are pretty stiff and really didn't grip well on anything. I went with Pro-Line Hyrax 1.9 in G8 compounds. Ive only ran it around the backyard and the difference in traction is amazing, looking forward to getting it out on the trail.





And here is how things look now...














Will hopefully get it out this weekend. The only thing i have planned for now is replacing the center skid plate / transmission mount. I think i may have overtorqued the screws for some of the links, so they dont really get adequately tight. I was thinking of going with an aluminum replacement, but i wonder how this fares sliding over stuff vs the molded plastic? Any thoughts?

[soze]

Looking great! Mine is mostly stock right now, but I'm definitely getting the mod bug for it.

[hickwheeler]

Hello I've also been away from this stuff for awhile. I'm in the process of building my kit now. Waiting for upgrade parts to come in to finish the initial build. I hate the axial shocks. Tried doing the bladders in them. But still can't get them to feel right. So I also decided to get trx4 take off shocks.

[intheworks]

great suggestion for shock upgrade. I saw a set of trx 4 shocks this past weekend and they are very smooth!!

[JatoTheRipper]

Welcome back to RC! It's even more awesome these days. Beware, scale trucks are so addicting. I'd be shocked if you don't also buy a TRX-4 at some point. I started out with "just" an SCX10 and now I have more than 10 scale trucks.

Great looking Jeep! You are correct. The TRX-4 shocks are awesome and much better than the Axial shocks.

[Techno Duck]

The new tires were a huge improvement! The stock rear bumper still gets hung up and digs in often even after being tucked in a little, will start looking around for a replacement.



This link is a video from yesterday;
https://imgur.com/UjMD7W4

I realized yesterday my choice of the Castle 2850kv motor was way overkill for a crawler rig. While crawling i'm probably only using 10-15% throttle and even while walking on a trail only about 70% max. This is on a 2S pack and the stock kit gearing (15t pinion / 56t spur).

I am going to try tweaking the settings with the ESC. I have the AUX channel setup for drag / no drag brake. So i think i may be able to limit the power output on the drag brake profile. Ill keep full power on the no drag brake profile for just moving quickly along a trail. Ill also maybe experiment with gearing the pinion down to a 13t or 14t.

Ill probably be tweaking this for a long time, i wonder if its easier to just get the 1900kv motor...

[Jboucher]

Just use a lower pinion and program a nice throttle curve.
You can get 20% of max power in the first 50% throttle range for exemple.

John Holmes made a nice video about radio settings and throttle curves.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Techno Duck]

Thanks for the heads up! Just watched the video which is really helpful; this would have been really helpful when i set this up a few months ago, i didn't know what the heck i was doing...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wvH4A_VqTs

[Techno Duck]

Installed a set of GRC fender liners purchased from AsiaTees. Showed up 7 days after ordering.









Had to do some minor trimming due to my ESC mounting location. Other than that the fit was spot on.



Adds a nice scale touch. After running them on the trail, the chassis internals still get dusty...so don't buy thinking it will keep it cleaner!

[Techno Duck]

I mapped the ESC throttle curve based on the video from Holmes Hobbies posted above. This improved throttle control a bunch. I also picked up a 13t and a 14t pinion to try out.

Also trimmed the fenders a little for clearance around the Hyrax tires.

I visited a new spot with some other local people... this is the best of the places in my area by far, cant wait to go back again. If i do anymore night runs i need to get a light bar!

My rig did pretty well. I was able to get through most of the tough spots with careful lines, but i really need to add some weight down low. Up next will be SSD brass HD knuckles and probably SSD Pro44 axles. I want to avoid adding rotational weight, so no Beef Patties or wheel weights. Will add a little at a time to see how things go.

The other trouble i had was with the XJ body. The roof rack is pretty tall, so it gets caught pretty often on stuff. Also i am surprised the side mirrors are still attached! They pretty much get caught on everything. Still trying to decide if ill take them off or not.

[Techno Duck]

Click the image for a few clips from yesterday. The first one was a really tricky section that took me awhile to get.

[Techno Duck]

I made the mistake of over tightening the screws for the chassis links in the skid plate / trans mount. Some of the screws wouldn't tighten after i changed the links. I got an aluminum replacement from Integy. Quality is pretty good, but i did find the rear links were a bit of a loose fit. I was able to get a .004" feeler gauge in the gap. Doesn't seem like much but it definitely attributed to a lot of side to side movement of the rear suspension.


So naturally as someone who is probably borderline OCD, i bought some .001" shims from McMaster Carr. These were a major pain to install with the links because they are literally paper thin. But they tightened the links up so the only play left now is in the rod ends... . If i were to do it again, i would get the .002" shims... .

Ive got some other goodies coming this week to install, looking forward to some more crawling this weekend!

[Techno Duck]

Finishing up on some more tweaks;

Installed the Vanquish top shaft and a Robinson Racing 14t pinion. I measured .75mm of play with the stock setup. I didnt even bother measuring with the Vanquish shaft, but the difference was significant. I am hoping to get a bit more throttle control with the 14t pinion.

These two pictures show the play in the top shaft.



Vanquish shaft ready to install


Ready to go back in with the 14t pinion



I also put on a set of SSD brass knuckles. Everything fit perfectly but due to my beadlocks i had to grind part of the knuckle down a bit. I noticed it had rubbed a little even on the stock knuckles, so it was all the wheels. It only took a few seconds with a carbide cutting bit and a dremel.

Rubbing from the beadlock ring on the stock knuckles.


Removed the original bearings using a right angle pick

A few sockets and a vice to press out the outter bearings




Bearings installed in the hubs, perfect fit!



Rubbing on the beadlock ring.



After a few seconds of grinding and a couple of test fits.


Colored the ground down area with a Sharpie, sorta matches the original finish


I also put on brass lower spring perches from Samix. Remember to buy the ones that match your shocks! In my case, the TRX-4 shocks.

[Tufftf2]

Nice work on the build! After running my 10.2 fo almost a year i completly agree with all your criticism about the stock platform... Imo the shocks are by far the weakest part of the kit. Im love my traxxas big bores with mini t springs. The stock rod ends are a joke but atleast most of the ball ends are captured. My steering lineages made it all of 4 packs before they fell apart.. I also went with the bent ssd titanium links for that fix. Im also running the 2850 mamba combo, but with an 11 tooth pinion and on 3s im pretty happy.

keep up the good work

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Traulus]

SSD rear bumper is the way to go

[Techno Duck]

I opted to get the CCHand bumpers, they were expensive but really the only ones i liked the look of. The silver was significantly cheaper than the black, so i just painted it myself. I expect it to get pretty beat up quickly. The front bumper should be here next week.





Patiently waiting for the paint to dry yesterday


The bumper mounts directly to the frame rails rather than the stock posts. So i had to modify the GRC fender wells a little to make it fit. To my surprise, this only took a few minutes with a razor blade and a sharp pair of dykes.



The front fender well uses a red clip in the back to secure it tight against the frame. I wasnt too crazy about this and after only removing it once, one of the clips was beginning to split. Its just a 3D printed part, so not too surprised. To secure it better, i drilled a hole through the frame so that i could just run a 3mm screw and nut to hold it on place. This is also much easier to take off, taking the clips off was a pain!



Charging my pack now, looking forward to some more crawling later this afternoon.

[Techno Duck]

The extra weight up front really helps it stay planted in the tougher sections. The rear would benefit from some weight also, not sure yet how ill add it on. Id like to avoid rotating mass, so that rules out the Beef Patties. Options look like the Samix lockouts that accept brass weights or the SSD weights that slip over the lockouts.


After i got home i finally decided to ditch the side mirrors. The body was starting to crack on both sides around the mounts. They just get caught up on everything in tight areas.








Paint on the rear bumper didnt last long . Ill repaint it again at some point with bed liner.

[Rekreant]

Awesome! Great photography as well!

[Techno Duck]

Took advantage of an eBay coupon and got some Samix lower brass chassis link mounts. Like some of the other reviews, i had some trouble using the original mounting hardware. I couldn't thread the original Axial M2.6 screws in all the way; not sure if its the coating or perhaps the threaded hole is done with a M2.5 tap. The other M3 hardware for the link and shock threaded in without issue.

I took a trip to Home Depot and got some M2.5 x 10mm long cap screws which worked great.