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11-27-2011, 08:09 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
| 90% Sure I Am Ordering A Wraith Tomorrow. ?'s...
I really want to get a Wraith, but the $315 will fully eat up my allotted budget. Are their any components on the Wraith that are flat out debilitating out of the box like the SCX10? I love my SCX10, but I would rather that it hadn't even come with driveshafts than the garbage that it was shipped with (The new models remedied this I see). I see the Wraith has the new style shafts as well, but it has a ton of new parts, just wondering if any are this bad? I am not talking about plastic links and stuff, I know I will be upgrading this stuff, I am more concerned with stuff that is going to break and leave me immobilized. I need a truck that won't NEED any immediate upgrades with my current budget. Pic of my SCX10 for fun: |
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11-27-2011, 08:19 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: BFE, NV
Posts: 2,324
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The tie rod is the only part that need immediate attention. Your getting the kit or rtr?
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11-27-2011, 08:55 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: the first state
Posts: 218
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i broke the knuckle right away but if you watch the screws and make sure they stay tight you will be ok for a while. i put about 10 packs thru mine before the motor finally went up and i stripped all the stock plastic servo horns.
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11-27-2011, 09:17 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
| RTR. Is it known to break (The Tie rod), or just flex excessively?
Last edited by NFA Fabrication; 11-27-2011 at 09:24 PM. |
11-27-2011, 09:45 PM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: 808
Posts: 136
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The stock steering link has quit abit of flex. Its not all that bad, especially on jumps it kinda helps with the impact on landing, then again it jus seems weak.
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11-27-2011, 09:54 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
| Ahh, I am more concerned with stuff that will break and leave the truck immobile. I know things like that will need upgrading. Look at my SCX10 build thread (In Sig.), I am not afraid to upgrade stuff as needed, I just need something that is not going to absolutely NEED immediate upgrades. I can only really justify the $315 for the RTR shipped for a while.
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11-27-2011, 10:22 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Groningen, The Netherlands
Posts: 528
| AFAIK the only thing hat needs immediate attention is checking if all screws are tight( really! ), and putting a bit of 6mm aluminium tubing inside the punisher shafts. They have a habit of twisting, and then collapsing, yet, with an alu tube inside they keep on going. I only upgraded the motor after the first two packs( too slow for me), and the punisher shafts were, indeed, starting to twist. However, the RTR has some spare punishers on the parts-tree that comes with it, so, no big " immobilizing event if they twist and snap. |
11-27-2011, 10:29 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Georgetown, On
Posts: 345
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soft tie rod plastic servo horn strips links break very easy when cold (plastic) stock motor stinks thats about it. they are a great truck. check screws after every run! |
11-27-2011, 10:46 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
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11-28-2011, 04:19 AM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Groningen, The Netherlands
Posts: 528
| Nah.. It's the plethora of cheap, crappy "snappage-prone" self-tapping screws. I replaced almost every one of them with 3mm fine-thread, when the self-tappers came loose. Never lost a c-hub, or other parts again. |
11-28-2011, 04:29 AM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Rockland, ontario
Posts: 19
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The hardware falling out is a pain and yes you have to check at least the front steering/diff screws every run, especially the knuckles and hubs...I would also suggest upgrading to the universal style axels, as the stock dog bone ones tend to cause your knuckles to brake...
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11-28-2011, 04:37 AM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Chezzetcook Nova Scotia
Posts: 537
| I replaced my knuckle screws with 3mm fine thread as well. No more problems.. You can make your own links from threaded rod and Brake line. I broke my front bumper where it connects to the rest of the chassis and I hear its common, but definitely not immobilizing. I guess the screws in the knuckles falling out are the cause of a lot of broken knuckles.. So like all the other fellas said " Check em, or replace them" |
11-28-2011, 11:51 AM | #13 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Katy / west houston
Posts: 1,014
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rc planet has them on sale right now for $279.99 with free shipping
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11-28-2011, 12:08 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
| no. just go through and check the screws before the first run. and you're fine. the drive shafts where the first thing to go for me. but I also replaced my steering knuckles with alum. before I ever ran the rig. the electronics are pretty good, and will work for you until you feel you need to upgrade. |
11-28-2011, 09:56 PM | #15 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
| Quote:
I will probably switch out the motor, the 20T is most likely more speed/less run time than I am looking for. I have no issues with my SCX10's electronics. | |
11-28-2011, 10:04 PM | #16 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Roseville
Posts: 98
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I think everyone hit it. The only issue out of the box is things loosening up. Eventually you will want to change things out but you can run it out of the box for quite some time.
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11-28-2011, 11:00 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Seattle
Posts: 434
| Sounds manageable. I just ordered 2 Wraiths, 1 for me, and one for a friend. It's official...
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