The weak link?
 

I have been building and running RC's for many years. Back when a Gold chassis RC 10 started. However this is my first Wraith 'style' build. I am on the waitlist for a UCFAB PRT. Just cause the look good. I have built the Vanquish F9 Currie Axels and Vanquish 105 2.2 Wheels. Throw in Voodoo U4's and CI Foams. That part is complete. Now my question is where do you build in the weakest link? The part that you prefer to break because it is both cheaper and easier to repair? Just thinking out the rest of my build

Re: The weak link?
 

Just build everything bomb proof. That's what I do and nothing really breaks certain parts wear out over time such as cvds and I'm always replacing bearings.

Re: The weak link?
 

The craptastic plastic Susp./Steering links need be steel or aluminum.
Specifically the lower susp. links and steering links.
The servo needs be strong enough and have an alloy clamping servo horn.
And the internal plastic transmission gears should be upgraded to steel.

Upgrading those pieces is a good idea from the start.
And will hold up acceptably to the abuses of most users.

After that...
it really depends on how much power is run thru.
and if you drive it like you stole it.
will determine if you need upgrade to stronger parts.

If yer a WFO person or heavy fingered...
then you will need spend the money
and make it all bombproof.

I say don't fix it 'til it's broke or you'll need spend another fortune
all at once... rather then a little bit at a time.

The upgrades never really end btw

Re: The weak link?
 

My setup is causing broken hex pins occasionally and I stripped one plastic spur gear. I'm running a HH Puller Pro 3500 standard on 3s, AX2 tranny with upgraded output shaft, MIP drivelines, HD diffs, VP VVD up front, stock axle in the rear and VP clamping hexes. I don't regularly beat the snot out of it but I don't shy away from the trigger either "thumbsup" I couldn't be happier than to be replacing hex pins at 50 cents apiece.

Re: The weak link?
 

I run all the toughest parts except for a nylon spur. I don't like gear noise and steel spurs are noisy. Not that a spur is an easy fix on the trail but, if the mesh is set right, they last. My trucks run Tekin Pro4 HD, MMP ESC and 2.2 Rock beasts.
Just my weak link.

CG3

The weak link?
 

I run Robinson steel spur, bombproof trans, mmp, Pro4 3300 and 3000hd, my weak link is $20 Tmaxx driveshafts that are fairly strong but quick and easy to replace on the trail...


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Re: The weak link?
 

You could look at upgrading to the 8mm stub shafts that I offer. They have 2.5mm hex pins. Your hex pin/stub shaft breaking days would be over.

Re: The weak link?
 

Build it bomb proof and have fun. One huge key is maintenance. After every day of running my rigs I'll give them a once over and check all the key screws such as drivelines, c hubs, links etc. If your junk has loose hardware it's going to break.

Weak links have no place on any of my rigs. From 4 bolt motor plates on steel geared trannies (alloy cases on the bigger power rigs) to mip drivelines feeding HD gears and steel spools. My crawler has dlux heat treated cromo shafts with 8mm stubs and brass knuckles. Pure beef and even at 70* steering angle being powered by a brood axle buster on 4s I don't worry about breakage.

There was a time that I couldn't go out without some tools in my pocket at the minimum since something would always fail. Those days are over now that I learned to build them right. Now I toss my crawler in my truck with a few batteries and run it for an hour or more every day coming home from work.

Re: The weak link?
 

Thanks for the product plug Erik, but I'm saving up for a set of your MOA axles. I think my next project is going to be a comp crawler, heavy on Dlux parts "thumbsup"

Re: The weak link?
 

Man, thats the smartest thing I have ever read in this part of the forum. LOL.

:mrgreen:

Cant wait!