ElectroTech's XR10 Build

[ElectroTech]

Picked up my kit today at the LHS and started building on it. I have ordered my motors and servo (LHS doesn't carry ones I wanted)

Motors I ordered are HH TorqueMaster 540 Experts 45T

Servo is Hobico cs170 and also got robotronics horn

I was going to do a BRXL and punk dig but after reading a lot of reviews I think I'm going to go dual ESC.

So things I still need to get:

Dual ESCs (I was thinking Mamba Micro or FXR, I'd prefer the Mambas but everywhere I read says for brushless motors and 1/18 scale, they are a little cheaper than the FXRs and better UI from reviews)

BEC: CC 10A of course

TX/RX: Futaba 3PL transmitter with R2004GF receiver

Tires/Foams: Hot bodies Sedonas/Crawler Innovations 5.5" double deuce


Anything I forgot or anything look off?

[Highlucks]

If you like castle products grab some micro side winders. They can be set to brushed mode via the castle link. As can the micro Mamba's. Best of luck with your build.

[ElectroTech]

what are the advantages of the mamba micro over the sidewinder micro? I've seen a lot of people run the micro ESC, just trying to figure out whats the difference in the micro (1/1 vs. the regular ones (1/10).

[pastrana#199]

They are smaller. The 1/18th micro sidewinder is the same as the 1/18th micro pro except the pro has a heat sink.

[ElectroTech]

well I have a rolling chassis, my wife went to a bachelorette party last night and it took me about 6 hours but It's complete minus all electronics and motors. My motors and servo are on order and then it's hurry up and wait till I get paid again to order the ESCs and Tx/Rx. Stopped by the LHS today and picked up the Boss Claws, I had planned on the HB Sedonas but the LHS doesn't carry them and I wanted to get the wheels mounted. Getting the beadlocks set right was a royal PITA (stripped 4 screws and had to drill 2 of them out) I did however cut the standard Losi pink foams that came with them into the star shape to soften them up a little bit.

Should I put the stage 3 high clearance links on order or just give it a go first without them? Most all of the rigs I see on here have them. As it is now with the stock flimsy rear upper links they hit the shocks and the RX tray under full flex. They just bend though and still get full travel.

[Wicked Monkey]

Those damn weak ass screws that come with the kit for the beadlocks SUCK. I had to drill out my holes a little, then clamp the beadlocks together with a C clamp in order to set the screws and still stripped a couple out. I can't understand why they used .5 hexes for something like that.

[Curcal]

I didnt have that much trouble with the stock bead locks. Had to work on the tires and wheels a few times and only stripped out one screw. I've since upgraded to .7" wheels.

[ElectroTech]

I got some 4-40 x 1" stainless 100 degree countersunk mil-spec Phillips head screws from work today. Replaced all the crappy axial screws, much better and they sit flush with the beadlock. No more worries.

I got the Hobico cs170 and robotronics horn in and installed today. Originally had the link mounted on the forward side but it seemed to bind under full left steer so I moved it to the back side of the horn inbetween the horn and axle and its much better there.

[ElectroTech]

Pics of the new beadlock screws and he servo mounted.





I've seen a few people invert their shocks, what advantage does this have, or is it just looks?

[pastrana#199]

It gets the majority of the weight of the shock a bit lower but it also keeps the piston in the air pocket in your shock when it is fully extended so it can make it more unpredictable at the start of its stroke.

[Curcal]

Honestly I didn't see that much difference with the shocks inverted. i then tried running my rig with full droop. It brought more weight down but I was getting a tad hung up on easier stuff. Only benefit I saw with inverted shocks was those bushing on the shock cap were between two pieces of plastic while at the axle end instead of the chassis and a lock nut. (I still need to change out those shock caps)

[ElectroTech]

Just a little side note, if anyone also runs a SCX10 and you have addded the high clearance links to your XR10 the stock lower aluminum links for the xr fit the lower links of the SCX10 Honch wheelbase very nicely if you change out both the ends on the front links to the shortest ones that came with the XR10 kit and change one of the rears to the short ones.

[ElectroTech]

So a friend and I got the OK from our boss to build a crawler course out back behind the building. Started working on it yesterday, defiantly still a work in progress with only 1.5 truck loads of rocks, we still probably need to get another 2 loads.

[ElectroTech]

Got all my parts in and finished building the XR10. Still waiting on the high clearance links though. Took it out for some testing on the practice course and it did pretty well. I need to make or get a front axle battery mount though the 1300mAh Venom 3s battery I bought is too big and only place to put it is on top of the electronics tray.

[dduddyjr]

Hello Newbie here,
This may be dumb question but i was wondering, the 3pl is it able to do dig and if so will it work with a dig switch or only duel ESC's.
-Dave

[ElectroTech]

I'm not 100% sure but I believe you can use the 3pl but you don't get the ability to vary the esc power like the 4pl. It's either on or off. I ended up going with the 4pl. Verry happy with it!

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by highlucks

If you like Castle products grab some Sidewinder Micros. They can be set to brushed mode via the Castle link, as can the Mamba Micro Pros. Best of luck with your build.

Originally Posted by ElectroTech

What are the advantages of the Mamba Micro Pros over the Sidewinder Micros? I've seen a lot of people run the Micro ESC, just trying to figure out whats the difference in the Micro (1/18 ) vs. the regular ones (1/10).

Originally Posted by pastrana#199

They are smaller. The 1/18th Sidewinder Micro is the same as the 1/18th Mamba Micro Pro except the Pro has a heat sink.

+1, I'm running dual Sidewinder Micros in my XR-10 with 3S & 35T motors. No issues with heat thus far (lots of packs through them).

As to the 3PL, for others that may read this thread, you may be able to run a LosiKid/OverKillRC WantAmix to get front/rear dig & proportional with dual ESC's. I use one on my 2.2 Bully with dual FX-R's and a Futaba 3PM-x. The WantAmix works well with the 3 channel.

You will end up replacing the upper links, as you noticed, they bend easily. I made my own rear uppers and did the machined Axial front uppers.
Also read the XR-10 sticky, you WILL want to do the axle bearing shim mod.