Shock Oil... Who's tried other weights?

[Damnir]

Wondering if people could chime in with their experience changing shock oil weights. I am running the stock 30wt front / 10wt rear in the kit, and like most others, I'm glancing at my arsenal of thicker oils and debating the switch.

It's not a hard job to switch, but it's messy and time consuming.

Please share your thoughts/advice/experience.

Thank you!! Looking forward to learning and sharing on this forum.

** Yes, I made a thread about differential oils, thought it'd be easier to keep topics separated! **

[redsawacs]

I used 30 wt frt and rear (stock kit set up pistons). I like the rear once I moved the shocks to the rear mounting holes. The front springs are too soft for me to get any testing with the front shocks thought.

[chewie]

I built it stock piston setup as well however installed no stock fluids...used 20wt up front and 30wt in rear..also increased spring preload some.

[Interlock]

It depends on how and where you want to run it.

For a mix of trailing, crawling, FOFF style climbs and occasional speed runs (on 4S) on VERY mixed terrain with small jumps (not high speed or deliberate ramp use, mainly terrain-based when climbing at slow to moderate speed) I have been happy with 30Wt front and rear. Stock RTR piston setup, springs and mounting positions. 3/4 pre-load in front and 1/2 in the rear.

It tends to give a plush ride that soaks up the bumps easily without the rear-end bounce in the RTR Axial videos, while also keeping it planted on moderate and low speed climbs, and at speed over rough and mixed surfaces.

Only other thing was increasing the size of the front bump-stops to prevent digging in of the front skid under full compression (but still allowing slap) and to save the front drive cups and axle shafts from breaking due to binding on heavy one wheel front landings under power (I noticed that when fully compressing only one side of the suspension at the front with stock bump stops, the drive cups and dog bones bind which could be the root cause of bent axles or blown output cups (I have encountered this problem before on other RCs I own with excessive suspension travel under one sided compression, and when the axle shaft is at too great an angle in relation to the drive cup and strikes the edge of the cup, potentially even striking into the slot for the drive pin. Under load, something has to give)).