RCCrawler Forums

TNCrawler · 08-12-2009, 02:34 PM

new to the cc and wondering what length the bottom links need to be to properly "clock" axles? i will be sleeving the top stock links and making new bottom links with 6/32 thread rod and sleeving as well. sleeve will be 1/4" brake line. Oh and i was wondering about the bent rear steer arm. does anyone know the length on this, and does it work well? sorry for all the questions but any help would be appreciated! thanks!

furiousgeorge · 08-12-2009, 08:05 PM

Mine had a difference of about 5mm. At first i used the all thread too, but i didnt like it very much and would advise against it. If you do go that route i would pre tap the rod ends it will make it alot easier because the 6/32 really isnt the correct size threaded rod to use.

TNCrawler · 08-12-2009, 08:53 PM

what would you suggest if the all thread is no good? and is that 5mm longer than stock?

us_scandinavian · 08-13-2009, 02:55 AM

Here is my solution, at the same time I took the opportunity to angle the bottom links 30 degree - like the alu hop ups from Duratrax.
Cut the original links about 34mm from bottom end, drill a hole 10mm in each part, thread them, use metric M3 or similar, put 35 mm length all threaded rod between them and then bend - try to bend only the part of the rod that is not inserted in the plastic. Remove both bottom links on one axle and try the new one, adjust the length of the all thread rod until it looks good.
Finally cut a part of a rubbertube to fit the visible part of the threaded rod.

The picture show the front axle finished and stock setup in the rear.
Bumper guard rised about 5mm in same operation = 5mm more ground clearance.

TNCrawler · 08-13-2009, 01:20 PM

thanks that helps alot! your links turned out nice! it looks like they came factory! is ther no need to clock the rear axle? and did you bend the rod then screw on the link pieces or after? thanks again for your help!

us_scandinavian · 08-13-2009, 03:14 PM

I took a picture as soon as I made the first axle just in order to see the huge difference, have done both!
Rear axle is as bad as the front axle, the entire chassie moved like a snake when the servos trying to turn but the wheels moved downward more than they turned.

I bend the link after I had screwed both link pieces on, one thumb in each side of the bare thread rod and carefully try to just bend the visible part of the thread rod.
Then try it and if its not perfect in length you can screw one link end of again and cut the thread rod some more or drill deeper in the linkend.

I used the same method to fix the stall in the rear steering link!

furiousgeorge · 08-13-2009, 03:17 PM

That is a cleaver setup. and it looks better than the all thread. I ended up having a guy at work turn some aluminum links for me with threaded ends and i bought traxxas rod ends and they work perfect.

TNCrawler · 08-13-2009, 03:24 PM

what about just buying longer ones for say an axial or traxxas or something? just realized you can get them dirt cheap! just have to figure length i guess.

leon · 09-04-2009, 12:26 AM

i just made some lower links tonight for my sons c.c. all i did was cut the plastic links in half i bought a piece of 1/4 inch (i.d.) brake line from autozone cut the brake line at 3 and 1/8 inch in length now use a 1/4 inch drill bit and run it through the brake line to de bure the cut ends now just push your plastic links into the brake line they fit perfect you can center drill the plastic links and use 4-40 althread and thread the plastic links back together this helps if you have cut the link to short and need to lengthen the link a bit but like i said i made lower links tonight and 3 and 1/8 inch was the perfect length

08-12-2009, 02:34 PM	#1
TNCrawler I joined the Band! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Maryville, Tn Posts: 1,198	length of bottom links to clock axles? new to the cc and wondering what length the bottom links need to be to properly "clock" axles? i will be sleeving the top stock links and making new bottom links with 6/32 thread rod and sleeving as well. sleeve will be 1/4" brake line. Oh and i was wondering about the bent rear steer arm. does anyone know the length on this, and does it work well? sorry for all the questions but any help would be appreciated! thanks!

08-13-2009, 02:55 AM	#4
us_scandinavian Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Sweden Posts: 31	Clocked axles - my solution. Here is my solution, at the same time I took the opportunity to angle the bottom links 30 degree - like the alu hop ups from Duratrax. Cut the original links about 34mm from bottom end, drill a hole 10mm in each part, thread them, use metric M3 or similar, put 35 mm length all threaded rod between them and then bend - try to bend only the part of the rod that is not inserted in the plastic. Remove both bottom links on one axle and try the new one, adjust the length of the all thread rod until it looks good. Finally cut a part of a rubbertube to fit the visible part of the threaded rod. The picture show the front axle finished and stock setup in the rear. Bumper guard rised about 5mm in same operation = 5mm more ground clearance.

08-13-2009, 03:14 PM	#6
us_scandinavian Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Sweden Posts: 31	Both axles are clocked! I took a picture as soon as I made the first axle just in order to see the huge difference, have done both! Rear axle is as bad as the front axle, the entire chassie moved like a snake when the servos trying to turn but the wheels moved downward more than they turned. I bend the link after I had screwed both link pieces on, one thumb in each side of the bare thread rod and carefully try to just bend the visible part of the thread rod. Then try it and if its not perfect in length you can screw one link end of again and cut the thread rod some more or drill deeper in the linkend. I used the same method to fix the stall in the rear steering link!

08-12-2009, 08:05 PM	#2
furiousgeorge Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 48	Mine had a difference of about 5mm. At first i used the all thread too, but i didnt like it very much and would advise against it. If you do go that route i would pre tap the rod ends it will make it alot easier because the 6/32 really isnt the correct size threaded rod to use.

08-12-2009, 08:53 PM	#3
TNCrawler I joined the Band! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Maryville, Tn Posts: 1,198	what would you suggest if the all thread is no good? and is that 5mm longer than stock?

08-13-2009, 01:20 PM	#5
TNCrawler I joined the Band! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Maryville, Tn Posts: 1,198	thanks that helps alot! your links turned out nice! it looks like they came factory! is ther no need to clock the rear axle? and did you bend the rod then screw on the link pieces or after? thanks again for your help!

08-13-2009, 03:17 PM	#7
furiousgeorge Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 48	That is a cleaver setup. and it looks better than the all thread. I ended up having a guy at work turn some aluminum links for me with threaded ends and i bought traxxas rod ends and they work perfect.

08-13-2009, 03:24 PM	#8
TNCrawler I joined the Band! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Maryville, Tn Posts: 1,198	what about just buying longer ones for say an axial or traxxas or something? just realized you can get them dirt cheap! just have to figure length i guess.

09-04-2009, 12:26 AM	#9
leon Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: ogden Posts: 66	i just made some lower links tonight for my sons c.c. all i did was cut the plastic links in half i bought a piece of 1/4 inch (i.d.) brake line from autozone cut the brake line at 3 and 1/8 inch in length now use a 1/4 inch drill bit and run it through the brake line to de bure the cut ends now just push your plastic links into the brake line they fit perfect you can center drill the plastic links and use 4-40 althread and thread the plastic links back together this helps if you have cut the link to short and need to lengthen the link a bit but like i said i made lower links tonight and 3 and 1/8 inch was the perfect length

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Thread: length of bottom links to clock axles?