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Thread: Novak Brushless ESC lipo cutoff not working

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Old 04-14-2009, 08:54 PM   #1
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Default Novak Brushless ESC lipo cutoff not working

OK, so The lipo cutoff worked when I did not have a dig. I put in a dig and now it is not working. The setting for lipo cut off is on, but it is not cutting it off. the rig is stopping, but at 4.5V not 6V.

Does anyone have any experience with this or know what is going on? I am going to screw up all batteries. I checked the batteries in another car and the they are fine and cutting out at 6V. My next step is to go back to 2ch and see if it cuts off.

any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:28 PM   #2
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Did anything else change? Add a BEC or anything like that?

Just adding a servo shouldn't have any effect on the ESC's Lipo Cutoff.

Can you unplug the Dig Servo and the Lipo Activates?
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie View Post
Did anything else change? Add a BEC or anything like that?

Just adding a servo shouldn't have any effect on the ESC's Lipo Cutoff.

Can you unplug the Dig Servo and the Lipo Activates?
Hey, whats up Charlie. This is the guy who comes in who is not from there. I got S3R dig from you. anyway...No on the BEC, but the next time I am up there I was going to pick one up. I am going to have to switch to 2ch or unplug the dig servo and then run it to see if it will cut off. That seems so sketchy though. I really don't want to screw these batteries up.

Edit: I just went through all the settings to make sure everything is set properly, all are set correctly.

Last edited by S/X Runner; 04-14-2009 at 10:00 PM. Reason: new info
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Old 04-15-2009, 02:33 PM   #4
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Hey SX,

Couple things I've encountered. When you go to the lipo mode, you can turn it on, but not "press and hold" to save. This doesn't put it in lipo mode. It just shows you the mode.

So make sure when you go to the two blinks for the "RED/AMBER" that you press and hold to save it. Also while your at it make sure you're checking the red and amber not something else, that's super common.

You can do the testing with a volt meter handy, and just keep checking the tabs on the ESC.

Or bring it in and I'll be more then happy to take a look. Wednesday is my only day off.

I'll be gone next week from Wednesday through the weekend though, going back to Socal for a few days and a mini vacation to visit my homies and my dog and my condo.
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Old 04-15-2009, 02:34 PM   #5
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One last thing, if you are "redoing" the one touch setup after you make these adjustments, it resets the adjustments. So you have to redo your adjustments after the One Touch.

Wow, this looks sorta confusing, you can call me at the shop tomorrow. I'm there at 11 till 7.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:58 PM   #6
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Its not confusing, I understand it all. Probably because I have been messing with it non stop for 2 days now. I've got some deliveries up that way tomorrow. I'll come see you on lunch. I'm going to do all of this tonight and I'll let you know what the results are.
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:03 PM   #7
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Oh, check this out...

When I redo the one touch set-up, every setting goes to the default except for the lipo cutoff. The default for the cutoff is "off" not "on". So after the doing the one touch, i put it to profile 2, then do drag brake, then do the dead band and then I go to the cutoff and it is exactly where I had it before resetting the whole dam thing. I must have gone through all the settings 10 times last night!

<---- that is me hella annoyed!!!
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:27 PM   #8
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Ok, I checked it out with a volt meter. Here's how it went...

Put the volt meter on at 6.50v. Put the rig in the air with the volt meter attached. Full throttle, volts dropped to 6.19 and the rig slowed down but did not stop. The throttle is supposed to stop at 6.25v but still have steering. I was able to still run it to 6v. I then stopped it on my own and unplugged it. I could have still ran it more if I wanted to.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:47 PM   #9
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When you turn it on do any lights flash??

You should get a flashing yellow and red before anything starts to work if the lipo is "on".
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:54 PM   #10
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when I turn the power switch to the on position the amber and red lights blink 3 times then the ESC arms and is ready to go.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:06 AM   #11
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Well, that should mean it's on..... Odd. Maybe something has gone south.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:14 AM   #12
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Yeah, I think so. I'll me at the shop in a couple hours.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:37 AM   #13
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Charlie, I can't pm you for some reason.

Anyway I got it all back and the lipo cutoff is now working. But now the the thing is glitching really bad. If I hit the throttle to go forward, the truck will hit reverse for a split second then go forward. When it hit reverse, it hits hard. The whole rig looks like it has hydros. It's hitting so hard in reverse then to forward that it pulled my 3 link pivot ball out of the front axle housing. Now I have to deal with that.

I have it on #2 (expo), dead band all the way up (#5, 9%). By the way the dead band was set at #5 when I got it. My first one was set at #1, I think. I did the one touch set-up (multiple times), the esc and the RX are on opposite sides of the truck. I have tried a couple different batteries. The sensor is plugged in. I have adjusted the expo on my radio 100% both ways.

Is there anything you can offer me that I haven't already done?
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:03 AM   #14
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Dude! did you try and reprogram the ESC?

Turn on your TX
Hold the set button (on the esc) untill the red light comes on and stays lit
push and hold throttle forward (green light)
let go to nuetral
push and hold reverse back until red light flashes? cant remeber off the top of my head but have the instructions at home (at work now)
release and lights should go off

Make sure all your settings are set to default on your TX before your program your esc. Trim tabs set to middle and so on.
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:15 AM   #15
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You really need someone to check your setup, seems like your LHS is not helping you out much. Some hobby shops just plain suck and keep giving you the run around.
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:28 AM   #16
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I have similar trouble with my Rooster Crawler. It worked for almost a year perfectly with 2/3A cells. As soon as I switched to lipo, I got a violent glitch. (undrivable).

I played with the mounting location of my battery and got it to go away mostly. I can not run a lipo on the rear axle for that reason. On the front axle it's fine... wierd huh?

Now I still have a glitch that is pretty annoying, but the truck is drivable. The glitch I have now is due to deadband I think. I wanted to be able to hold my truck still on a hill with the trigger... so I widened the dead band. Either my radio or the Rooster is not sensitive enough to handle the dead band I have set. When you give super slight input wit the trigger, the ESC flicks on and off instead of staying on with the finite input... and it glitches between the two.

Could be the radio though... what are you using?

I have a DX3R setup on my other truck... and as soon as I get another Spektrum receiver... I can tell you if it's the radio....
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:31 AM   #17
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LOL, yeah, SX maybe your LHS is terrible and doesn't know what he's talking about..... LOL.

I used to work at Novak, doing the tech support, and Now I work at SX's local hobby shop.

He's not really done much wrong in regards to his install, and he's very good at doing the One Touch Setup or "reprogramming" as he stated in his post.

Hard to say with out seeing the truck, sounds like you're doing things right, next time you bring it in, let me know a head of time, in the Sonoma thread as I check that before I leave each day, and I'll bring in one of my extra Goat systems and we can spend a bit of time seeing exactly whats going on.

Usually, if the install isn't the problem, it can very well be a "bunk" ESC. I've seen people have problems with new ones before, not often, but you seem to be having that sort of orange luck at this point...... Call me at the shop today if you get some time we can go over a few things super quick. It very well could the TX as much as it could be the ESC/Motor.
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:38 AM   #18
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S/X is currently in Tahoe, but im sure he'll take you up on that offer ASAP. He was texting me like crazy yesterday about his problems.
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
I have similar trouble with my Rooster Crawler. It worked for almost a year perfectly with 2/3A cells. As soon as I switched to lipo, I got a violent glitch. (undrivable).

I played with the mounting location of my battery and got it to go away mostly. I can not run a lipo on the rear axle for that reason. On the front axle it's fine... wierd huh?

Now I still have a glitch that is pretty annoying, but the truck is drivable. The glitch I have now is due to deadband I think. I wanted to be able to hold my truck still on a hill with the trigger... so I widened the dead band. Either my radio or the Rooster is not sensitive enough to handle the dead band I have set. When you give super slight input wit the trigger, the ESC flicks on and off instead of staying on with the finite input... and it glitches between the two.

Could be the radio though... what are you using?

I have a DX3R setup on my other truck... and as soon as I get another Spektrum receiver... I can tell you if it's the radio....
I'm using a m11 fhss-2.
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie View Post
LOL, yeah, SX maybe your LHS is terrible and doesn't know what he's talking about..... LOL.

I used to work at Novak, doing the tech support, and Now I work at SX's local hobby shop.

He's not really done much wrong in regards to his install, and he's very good at doing the One Touch Setup or "reprogramming" as he stated in his post.

Hard to say with out seeing the truck, sounds like you're doing things right, next time you bring it in, let me know a head of time, in the Sonoma thread as I check that before I leave each day, and I'll bring in one of my extra Goat systems and we can spend a bit of time seeing exactly whats going on.

Usually, if the install isn't the problem, it can very well be a "bunk" ESC. I've seen people have problems with new ones before, not often, but you seem to be having that sort of orange luck at this point...... Call me at the shop today if you get some time we can go over a few things super quick. It very well could the TX as much as it could be the ESC/Motor.
Thanks Charlie. I'll be back on Sunday. I'll be messing with it on Monday. Hopefully I can figure it out. I will post up in the sonoma thread before I head your way. I'm sure between the two of us we will figure it out.
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