02-04-2011, 12:58 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
Posts: 479
| motor improvement
might be a really dumb question... but..... is there a way to improve power output of a motor.... lets just say a stock LNC motor....is there modifications you can do to improve power and torque of a motor, with little to no cost involved???? Flame suit on |
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02-04-2011, 01:05 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicago/Bloomington
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Other than breaking it in by water dipping with toothpaste there isn't too much you can do. Just for clarification, this stock motor is a sealed can (closed brushes). Use it up and toss it out, by another one for $15-20. The best improvement is to replace it with a good 35T crawler motor like either the Tekin, Integy, Novak or Venom. Last edited by AreCee; 02-04-2011 at 01:10 PM. |
02-04-2011, 01:32 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 2,303
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Water dipping isn't needed.....Wtf are you using toothpaste for? The bushings? That's an old wives tale that doesn't work. The bushing are pourous, you will never get that crap out of them either.....after winning 20+ national titles in stock classes, I can tell you, we NEVER polished a bushing in one..... There is not much you can do to make it faster for free or even spending money on it. You could crank the comm but that's not something for a novice motor guy to be trying.... Later EddieO |
02-04-2011, 01:33 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
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You are past breaking it in......at this point, not much will make it any faster..... Later EddieO |
02-04-2011, 01:34 PM | #5 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
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LOL.... how is that done, even if I wanted to try it with thoughts if it messes up, it messes up... | |
02-04-2011, 01:39 PM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 2,303
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Cranking a comm is different for most motors.....but in general, you want to hold either the comm or the arm itself, and rotate the other to advance the timing....comms are usually set around zero, so you can put 15-20 degrees in them pretty easy with just a slight cheat.... And yes, I know how to do this because back in the day, when some people were still figuring out what a motor lamination was, this was LEGAL to do on stock motors before they locked timing at 24 degrees. Later EddieO |
02-04-2011, 01:44 PM | #7 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
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02-04-2011, 01:55 PM | #8 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicago/Bloomington
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02-04-2011, 02:12 PM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Albans
Posts: 507
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02-04-2011, 03:21 PM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicago/Bloomington
Posts: 1,505
| NFW, I wouldn't want anything he touches with that adolescent attitude. There are plenty of good motors and tuners out there. He's too full of himself, I'll stick with people like Deiter.
Last edited by AreCee; 02-04-2011 at 03:27 PM. |
02-04-2011, 03:56 PM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
Posts: 479
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who cares, quit trashing up my thread.....take it up in PM's
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02-04-2011, 04:32 PM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
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I guess we can call it whatever type of attitude you want....but the simple fact is you are giving very bad advice to someone......water dipping a used sealed can motor? Using toothpaste? Water dipping is not for the novice.....if done wrong, you destroy the motor..... Make sure you say hi to Jim for me, and ask him if he uses Toothpaste on a bushing.....let alone using water break in.... Mudn1, to go faster at this point, you will need to replace the motor. Even if I could describe to you how to crank the comm, you would more than likely toast the motor your first time trying it. Its not a simple process. Maybe ask around the local track, see if you can find a used 27t Stock race motor. Those are rebuildable and will be a good amount faster than the stock losi. I would imagine you could find a used one for $5, though you may find a nice racer who just gives you one.....they are obsolete in racing now.....work perfect for bashing. Later EddieO Last edited by EddieO; 02-04-2011 at 04:35 PM. |
02-04-2011, 04:38 PM | #13 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
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02-04-2011, 04:45 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
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The Sealed Can stuff in all honesty is junk. It's just not worth the time. You are better off with a machine wound integy lathe motor for $20, as at least with those, you can adjust the timing, cut the comm, replace brushes, etc....sealed can basically allows none of this really in a normal scope (me being cocky here, I am sure I could hack the shit out of it and make it faster.....but were talking something that maybe 2-3 people on this board know and understand how to do).... If its your comp rig and not a basher, sounds like its time to pony up for a better motor. Green can motor is probably a trinity green machine stock, which would be a pretty decent upgrade from the sealed can. You won't be able to adjust timing still, but at least its got timing in it (24 degrees) and you can rebuild it..... Later EddieO |
02-04-2011, 07:48 PM | #15 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
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02-04-2011, 10:02 PM | #16 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Thornton
Posts: 82
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On a cheap budget honestly integy makes a decent rebuild-able motor and they are $20 brand new. You can get new brushes for them and have someone with a lathe turn the comm when needed if you are really that tight on budget. But $20 for a brand new motor isnt bad, and as someone stated above they are decent motors. On a side note, the water break in is old old school, i havent done it or seen it done since sometime in the 90's and you cant just hook it up and hit full throttle. The idea behind it since you were asking was that it makes for a clean contact point when breaking the brushes into the exact shape of the comm. It keeps debris out of the contact surface and helps the brushes seat better. If you search around enough im sure there is an old article on that and the a fore mentioned motor timing and the how to of both on either here or rccaraction. |
02-04-2011, 10:55 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
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here is the crappy little green can I got, would this be an improvement over the stock losi motor???? |
02-04-2011, 11:13 PM | #18 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: St. Albans
Posts: 1,441
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I do believe that's one of the original speed gems line. Not sure what wind it is though. I remember the light blue one was called the saphire and was a 17x1. I'll see if I can dig up an old RCCA and find an ad for them... EDIT: Have you looked at the comm? I'm pretty sure those actually had the arm marked with the wind. |
02-04-2011, 11:14 PM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: too close to LRC.... Jealous????
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02-05-2011, 12:10 AM | #20 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
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It could be a speed gems emerald, or a Green Machine 1 or 2, been so long since I looked at either....they all looked pretty similar....if the timing is adjustable, then its a speed gems....I believe they were like a 15 or 16 turn triple or quad.......if it has a timing tab, which is a notch in the can to lock the endbell from being rotated any way, then its a GM1/2....also any sign of ROAR 91 or what means its a GM 1/2... The GM will be faster once rebuilt and such.....if its a Speed Gem, it will blow the Axial motor out of the water.... Later EddieO |
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