Sidewinder SV2 setup issue.

[meatmonkey]

I've been running a Castle SCT 3800 system in my bash car for a few weeks now with good results so I thought I would try a Sidewinder SV2 in my SCX.

Heres my story. I foolishly waterproofed it by filling it with dielectric grease BEFORE I installed it so there is no way Castle will warrentee it. My bad.

It didn't want to setup with my GT3B, I had to try several times to make the red/yellow leds blink correctly to indicate setup.

I wasn't able to get the ESC into programming mode, no matter how long I held the throttle WOT when I turned the esc on I never got the second set of tones that acknowledge that programming mode has been entered. After trying the prodedure outlined in the owners manual several times the ESC would just flash the red LED when turned on, regardless of throttle position. Then it stopped doing even that. The receiver still has power, but no LED's light up on the ESC. No magic smoke released, no burning electronics smell, no anything.

I initially set it up without a motor attached, because I knew that I had to switch the ESC over the brushed mode to work with my Axial 27T. When I couldn't hear the "tones" I figured I had to attach the motor so I could hear them. Well, as soon as I did that is when the RED led flashed, and I could hear the tones. Right after is when the Sidewinder quit functioning. Did I kill it by hooking it up to a brushed motor? Even for a few seconds while trying to program it, I didn't try to drive it at all. I have a Castle link, though I'm not quite sure how to use it yet. What are the odds I can reload the Sidewinder's software and it'll work?

Any ideas as to why my ESC wouldn't go into programming mode? Anyone else have this problem.

If I need to hear the tones to program the esc, but I can't hook a brushed motor to it until it is reprogrammed, then how the heck to I switch it to brushed mode without the Castle link?

Starting to think that maybe I should have just spent double the money on a Tekin FXR...

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

[TexasSP]

The brushed motor definitely did not kill the ESC. The ESC uses the motor for it's tones, without a motor, there are no tones period as the ESC has no sound output device on it.

It sounds to me like you shorted something when applying the grease too it. Are you sure it was dielectric grease and that no moisture was present?

One thing to note is that Castle puts a protective coating on their circuit boards so the have a bit of water resistance built in.

I would call Castle and explain to them what happened and see what they say. Make sure to talk to a tech. If the tech doesn't help you contact Joe Ford or Thomas Porfert. Both of them are great guys and I would bet if the ESC is fairly new that they will take good care of you. You will probably have to leave a message for them and wait for call back and but they will get back with you.

As for the Tekin FXR I sold mine to go with a SV2 and couldn't be happier. The SV2 is much smoother and more adjustable than the FXR not too mention that FXR's are known to go up in smoke too.

[The Violator]

I would clean all the grease out of everything with motor spray. That should get things cleaned up and then start over.

[meatmonkey]

I'm positive that I used clear Permatex brand dielectric grease, no moisture, no air pockets. I've waterproofed a few Hitec servos and an HPI esc with the same stuff and they are all still working strong. I occasionally dunk my SCX completely underwater so I figured I better be safe than sorry with my new Castle ESC. The esc was brand new out of the box, I hadn't even powered it up before I dielectic greased it.

Thanks for the help, I'll call Castle and see what their advice is. I just didn't want to call up sounding like an idiot: "My esc won't work with my brushed motor, wtf?" I'm sure they get enough of that as it is.

[HaSharetz]

You should try the Castle Link first and see if the ESC will let you program it.

[meatmonkey]

Window's vista is not very installer friendly IMO.

Despit this, I managed to reprogram my SCT system to tame down the wheelies a little and increase drag brake so that is cool.

But when I hook the programmer up to the SV2 it won't recognize it. And only the red LED comes on the programer instead of both flashing. When I try to read settings it pops up "no controller or invalid controller connected. Probably not a good sign... Time to call Castle.

[WIDELOAD]

If its not being recognised by the programmer it sounds like a DOA one. There's been a few of those with the SV2/SCT sidewinders...you're on the money though. Give castle a call and see if they can help out.

[Charlie-III]

Stupid question....is the throttle trim set to "0", EPA's set to 100%.....have you tried with throttle deadband, switching the throttle to reverse (should be "normal" usually)??

[meatmonkey]

Yup been doing this long enough that the first thing I check when an ESC won't program is that the trim is 0, no exponential, proper endpoints, etc.. Tried the channel reversing both ways.

The only thing I figure I could possibly have done wrong is to hook it up to a brushed motor before I switched it to brushed mode.

[cartronicshn]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

Yup been doing this long enough that the first thing I check when an ESC won't program is that the trim is 0, no exponential, proper endpoints, etc.. Tried the channel reversing both ways.

The only thing I figure I could possibly have done wrong is to hook it up to a brushed motor before I switched it to brushed mode.

Sounds like a doa, hooking a brushed motor shouldn't have caused the esc to fail, i have a lot of sidewinders and only smoked one but that was because it was submerged in water without being waterproofed first, i definetly would contact castle as they have been great in customer service to me

[meatmonkey]

Called Castles tech. Their not impressed I dielectric'd the board. Or that I'm running 5000mah 20C Turnigy packs. Greg said that their controller's require a minumum of 30C. Go figure.

Their cost to replace it is $35+shipping. I only paid $40 shipped for it so I'm kinda bummed.

Does this mean I should be smart enough to test the next one before I waterproof it, or that I shouldn't waterproof it at all?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Test it first. I hate when I skimp on testing and get a dead controller after waterproofing.

[EddieO]

I find it funny they said their controllers require a certain C rating pack....funny stuff.

Later EddieO

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by EddieO

I find it funny they said their controllers require a certain C rating pack....funny stuff.

Later EddieO

For their intended use (fast cars), it is a sound recommendation. The lower the C rate, the higher the ripple voltage. The higher the ripple voltage, the higher the ripple amperage. The higher the ripple amperage, the higher the resistive losses.

Beyond that, it makes sensorless commutation harder to execute and amplifies inductive bounce. Both reduce the life of the controller. When running a controller near its voltage limits, ripple voltage is the #1 killer.

Run as high of a C rate (and as thick of wires) as you can afford, your controller will thank you.

[The Violator]

My sidewinder went nuts today. After hooking up a bec it would not drive without stuttering. BAD. After switching BECs, RX, servo, and re wiring everything I rolled the firmware back to 1.3 with the castle link. Problems solved. Your best bet would be to get the castle link working and try going at it that way. Check the firmware and roll it back to 1.30. At the track tonight I did it to 2 more Castle SC systems. There is a big glitch in the firmware. Hopefully castle fixes it.

[JesterSpec]

My sv2 was a waste of money. I'm using a regular sidewinder with awesome results.

Wish I had my mamba max back, it worked great.

[meatmonkey]

Well I guess I learned something from this. I had no idea that low amperage output batteries could lead to premature ESC death. Guess I'll stick to using my 30C's in the SCT system. I figure the 5000mah 20C's should be fine for a slow brushed motor (Axial 27 turn and Integy 35T), especially since I'm only running 2 cell lIpos.

And as I should have already known, assume nothing, test everything, and take your time on setup.

I've already ordered another SV2 and I'll probably send this one in for a spare. Definately going to test and reprogram the next one with the Castle link before waterproofing it. Do I have to use the red and white wires for the brushed motor even after reprograming it with the link? I know the directions say to use the red and black, but supposedly that is wrong?

Even though the Castle link won't recognize the SV2 with version 1.32, should I try it again with 1.30?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Have you updated the castle link software yet?

In a crawler your pack should be just fine. It is the faster vehicles that the system is intended for installation that need the higher discharge packs.

Try both red and black and white and black for brushed operation. I also heard they fixed it to red and black for the newest firmware, but haven't had a chance to double check it.

[simplechamp]

I agree, using 20C packs in the SCX10 will not hurt the ESC. I used an EagleTree datalogger on mine (SV2, HH Revolver Black, 3S 2200mah 20C Turnigy) and it only drew a max of 10A with an average of 1A. That's a max of 4.5C, average 0.5C, which the packs are plenty capable of handling without excess ripple.

[TexasSP]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Try both red and black and white and black for brushed operation. I also heard they fixed it to red and black for the newest firmware, but haven't had a chance to double check it.

Yes they did, mine is hooked up black and red.