holmes hobby cobalt question 10t

[vigilant]

i have been looking at these for some time now and plan on putting it in my ttc truck so was wondering if anyone put one of these in a truck that got muddy and went through water a lot and if the motor handled it well anyone have anything to say to that also it will be installed in a disruptor tranny can that handle the power any help would be appreciated thanks

[Grizzly4x4]

How many cells will you be running? The 10T makes a ton of torque. I ran one in front of R2 tranny for a year and it held up to 12 2/3A cells. The small cells didn't give full power like bigger cells would but I beat on it pretty hard.

Guido has run the same 10T puller for 2 years and has competed in many TTC events and been through lots of mud and water. I still have yet to even change the brushes in the motor.

BTW I also have a 7T puller that has been through the same TTC abuse and it is still running strong on 3S. I just put in Guido recently.

I believe that the key to a motor surviving is to filter the mud. Water doesn't hurt it but the mud will. I have a foam outer filter from a nitro engine on the endbell of my puller motors. I use the Dynamite DYN2610 it is a tight fit on the puller motor so it keeps the crud out well. After I wash things up I pull the filter to dry and spray the comm and brushes with WD-40.

[noremacyug]

Not to hijack here but I too have been strongly considering either the 7t or 10t puller. Currently I'm just running on 7.2v NIMH sticks and the stock axial ae2/27t setup. Will the ae2 handle the pullers? And would the speed be altered any over the stock axial 27t? I'd like some extra wheelspeed but also want greater resolution and slower crawling capabilities.

[Reflection]

Speed wise, the 7t puller will be closer to 23t motor, the 10t will be closer to a 35t. They will spool up faster allot though.

Cobalt pullers
7t - 2800 rpm/volt
10t- 1800 rpm/volt

Standard 540 motors
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt


Low end control and crawl-ability, Going from stock motors to a puller, you'll be amazed at the difference.

Power wise, a cobalt puller will pull the guts out of a stock motor and you'll see a big difference in your brake as well.

IMO, the best way to run a cobalt puller is on a 3 cell lipo. You'll have to watch the temps on a 7t some depending on gearing and weight of the car, but they will both handle it.

[noremacyug]

Originally Posted by Reflection

Speed wise, the 7t puller will be closer to 23t motor, the 10t will be closer to a 35t. They will spool up faster allot though.

Cobalt pullers
7t - 2800 rpm/volt
10t- 1800 rpm/volt

Standard 540 motors
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt


Low end control and crawl-ability, Going from stock motors to a puller, you'll be amazed at the difference.

Power wise, a cobalt puller will pull the guts out of a stock motor and you'll see a big difference in your brake as well.

IMO, the best way to run a cobalt puller is on a 3 cell lipo. You'll have to watch the temps on a 7t some depending on gearing and weight of the car, but they will both handle it.

that helps a lot. i had run a 18.5 goat combo in my honcho and didn't see much of a speed improvement. i read it was some where in the area of 2800 rpm/volt. so i knew that was close to the 7t but didn't have any specs on the stock 27t to compare it to.

so, i shouldn't be looking for any huge increase in speed then over the stocker. unless of coarse i step up to a 3s.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by noremacyug

that helps a lot. i had run a 18.5 goat combo in my honcho and didn't see much of a speed improvement. i read it was some where in the area of 2800 rpm/volt. so i knew that was close to the 7t but didn't have any specs on the stock 27t to compare it to.

so, i shouldn't be looking for any huge increase in speed then over the stocker.

Not really, but....

Originally Posted by noremacyug

Currently I'm just running on 7.2v NIMH sticks and the stock axial ae2/27t setup.

Your not running much power at all to begin with. Add a couple cells or bump up to a 3 cell lipo. You'll be VERY surprised at the difference.

For best results in a crawler, a very wise man once told me.... Gear down and volt up. It works amazing, it's true....Try it. You'll be happy.

[Reflection]

For example.....

25t = 2588 rpm/volt
on 7.2 volts, that is 18,633 rpm's
on 11.1 volts, thats 28,726 rpm's

Pretty sweet ehh.

[noremacyug]

Originally Posted by Reflection

For example.....

25t = 2588 rpm/volt
on 7.2 volts, that is 18,633 rpm's
on 11.1 volts, thats 28,726 rpm's

Pretty sweet ehh.

yeah, i was doin the math after you mentioned a 3s. that's a fairly significant increase.

i've read that with the lower turn brushed motors that the maintenance should be performed much more often than with a high turn motor. is that still the case with the pullers?

[rusty577]

Im looking at getting a 10t puller keep the info coming guys

[WIDELOAD]

Originally Posted by noremacyug

i've read that with the lower turn brushed motors that the maintenance should be performed much more often than with a high turn motor. is that still the case with the pullers?

The # of turns on a puller are totally different to a normal brushed motor.
So in effect a 10t puller compared to a 10t 540. Maintenance shouldnt be any heavier, just make sure you do it.

[Duuuuuuuude]

You'll also want to make sure you use packs with good C ratings. If you've ever wanted to be able to see the difference between good packs and not-so-good packs, use them to power a Puller.

I've got a few cheapo packs and I've got some good quality packs, all the same capacity, but with different C ratings. Its obvious which is which when you start driving...

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

You'll also want to make sure you use packs with good C ratings. If you've ever wanted to be able to see the difference between good packs and not-so-good packs, use them to power a Puller.

I've got a few cheapo packs and I've got some good quality packs, all the same capacity, but with different C ratings. Its obvious which is which when you start driving...

Very true. Running higher C rated packs makes a big difference in power and performance.

The pullers like power. I'd recommend no less than a 25-30C rated lipo for a puller. I've seen pullers swell 15C rated pack in minutes.

These are the packs I run in our comp cars and radio's. Holmes Hobbies 35C 1300mah lipo I've also got a couple of these we run in scalers for the added mah for more run time. Poly RC 2200mah Lipo They'll handle a puller very well.

[Grizzly4x4]

I have had great luck running both the 10T and the 7T on a 2100mAh, 20C, 3S battery. Truck pulls and mud bogs, the puller motor eat well with that battery.
I would consider that the minumum though, anything less than 40A continuous draw and you risk starving the motor or swelling the battery.

With the 7T/3S setup in Guido I was catching good air off of rocks and jumping into the stream.....with a 12 lb truck.

[Onebdgti]

I really like my 7t puller. I have only used it a few times on 3s cause it seems like it looses alot of bottom end control vs using a 2s. Do you all think that if i mess with the throttle curve on the BRXL that it would help with that. As of right now I am running a 12/87 combo.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Onebdgti

I really like my 7t puller. I have only used it a few times on 3s cause it seems like it looses alot of bottom end control vs using a 2s. Do you all think that if i mess with the throttle curve on the BRXL that it would help with that. As of right now I am running a 12/87 combo.

Possibly. Even the brake curve could effect it. It's amazing what the throttle and brake curves will do. If the brake is set up with a real steep curve, it'll come on quick and lock up hard, reverse will also be real quick and snappy.

If you adjust both curves, I'm sure you will notice a change.

[Pappy]

Right now I run 6s lipo with a 55t HH handwound through a HH ESC. I bought a 7t Puller. How will the puller on 3s lipo compare to the setup I run now?

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Pappy

Right now I run 6s lipo with a 55t HH handwound through a HH ESC. I bought a 7t Puller. How will the puller on 3s lipo compare to the setup I run now?

Personally, I've never ran 6s on anything. Simple math comparing the rpm/volt between the 2 different set ups will get you close as far as what gearing changes you might want/need.

540 Motor speeds taken from averaged lots at zero timing with no load, 5mm web and standup brushes

10t = 6526 rpm/volt
15t = 4317 rpm/volt
17t = 3753 rpm/volt
20t = 3216 rpm/volt
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt
65t = 837 rpm/volt

Holmes Hobbies Cobalt Puller

7t - 2800 rpm/volt
10t- 1800 rpm/volt

[Pappy]

Originally Posted by Reflection

Personally, I've never ran 6s on anything. Simple math comparing the rpm/volt between the 2 different set ups will get you close as far as what gearing changes you might want/need.

540 Motor speeds taken from averaged lots at zero timing with no load, 5mm web and standup brushes

10t = 6526 rpm/volt
15t = 4317 rpm/volt
17t = 3753 rpm/volt
20t = 3216 rpm/volt
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt
65t = 837 rpm/volt

Holmes Hobbies Cobalt Puller

7t - 2800 rpm/volt
10t- 1800 rpm/volt

No load rpm looks very comparable....6s on 55t handwound is a beast for sure, but it is a brush and comm burner. Kind of like an electrode on a stick welder. But a couple of pulls on our TTC sled was amazing.

Now 7t puller I'm hoping will still make it a horsepower freak, but way more durable on brushes and comms...with a 3s lipo of course. I guess if worst came to worst, I could run dual pullers on one spur!

[JesterSpec]

Originally Posted by Reflection

Personally, I've never ran 6s on anything. Simple math comparing the rpm/volt between the 2 different set ups will get you close as far as what gearing changes you might want/need.

540 Motor speeds taken from averaged lots at zero timing with no load, 5mm web and standup brushes

10t = 6526 rpm/volt
15t = 4317 rpm/volt
17t = 3753 rpm/volt
20t = 3216 rpm/volt
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt
65t = 837 rpm/volt

Holmes Hobbies Cobalt Puller

7t - 2800 rpm/volt
10t- 1800 rpm/volt

With as much tq, and better life, Just have to watch temps.
55t 21911 RPM
7t 31080 RPM

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Pappy

No load rpm looks very comparable....6s on 55t handwound is a beast for sure, but it is a brush and comm burner. Kind of like an electrode on a stick welder. But a couple of pulls on our TTC sled was amazing.

Now 7t puller I'm hoping will still make it a horsepower freak, but way more durable on brushes and comms...with a 3s lipo of course. I guess if worst came to worst, I could run dual pullers on one spur!

Little difference, but I've got a few 10t pullers on 2 and 3 years of service all on 3 cells and tall gearing that have yet to see new brushes or a comm cut. I've got a 5t puller that's allot older than that that still runs good on it's original brushes, but it's never seen a 3 cell. My other 5t didn't fair to well on a 3 cell. That was an expensive 5 minute run....but it was fun.

I like the pullers cause they spool up so fast. When you want the power, just stab it and it's there. It's a hard motor to beat in a scaler or pull truck.