DIY RX/Servos Power Booster

[gonper]

I do not know if "RX/Servos Power Booster" is the correct name but hope you understand.
(They told me on posts below they are called Glitch-Busters, thank you MikemcE)
Now it is possible to use the battery that feeds the motor, to feed as well the RX and servos because there is already lots of high voltage options on RX and Servos, and that is what I plan to do on my Super
In other words I am not using a BEC, I am just connecting the battery to the receiver.
But there is an issue on electric RC cars, acrobatic electric planes and 3D electric helicopters, that there is big current surges that can droop the voltage that is received by the RX system and that can cause problems like loose of control or servos power loose and glitches.
Sometimes even with a BEC this device is need.

So this is a cheap and simple device that fixes that possible issues.
It is just a electrolytic condenser/s that plugs in any of the receiver free channels ports.
The cost of this kind of DIY devices: connector + condenser/s heat-shrink tubes is less than 6€

Notes:
- This is a quite small unit (3300uF) but enough for my case.
- Depending on the the size and use it should be smaller or bigger. The bigger the better.
- To make it bigger it is possible to connect various condensers in parallel.
- This condensers are polarity sensitive so make sure to check polarity.
- This condensers are voltage rated so use one/s always above the voltage you plan to use (i.e. I plan to use 2S or 3S battery so I choose 16V)
- The cable lead should be as short as posible.

[mikemcE]

Sold as glitch busters by many sources


Hang up and Drive

[Rekreant]

Great example of a DIY glitchbuster. The nice thing is you can buy capacitors in bulk from China for dirt cheap, then solder em and sell em on ebay lol.

[Ninomaniac]

I will rudely add a couple of notes:

it's good practice to keep the leads as short as possible. That's why I don't like ESCs with external caps on 2 in. of wire.

And you mean uF, not pF. Just a million times different

Make sure the voltage rating is a bit above your full battery voltage (i.e. for 4s a 20V rated cap would do, for 2S a 10V). Nothing wrong with going higher but it will be physically bigger.

[Hydrocarbon92]

Usually 1-2 "steps" above working voltage is all you need with a regulated power supply or battery, as caps get bigger with higher voltage ratings. Higher is safer, that's about it.

Another important spec is ESR, essentially internal resistance. The less resistance, the faster it can charge & discharge. I recently got some caps that are rated at several amps due to such a low ESR. They'll be cap banks for my two 150A esc's.

[gonper]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

I will rudely add a couple of notes:

it's good practice to keep the leads as short as possible. That's why I don't like ESCs with external caps on 2 in. of wire.

And you mean uF, not pF. Just a million times different

Make sure the voltage rating is a bit above your full battery voltage (i.e. for 4s a 20V rated cap would do, for 2S a 10V). Nothing wrong with going higher but it will be physically bigger.

Originally Posted by Hydrocarbon92

Usually 1-2 "steps" above working voltage is all you need with a regulated power supply or battery, as caps get bigger with higher voltage ratings. Higher is safer, that's about it.

Another important spec is ESR, essentially internal resistance. The less resistance, the faster it can charge & discharge. I recently got some caps that are rated at several amps due to such a low ESR. They'll be cap banks for my two 150A esc's.

Thank you Ninomaniac and Hydrocarbon, I will edit the post adding this info.