Super 300 rebuild questions I have had the Super 300s on my berg since they came out. They work so great with just a shot of WD40 now and then, that I have never given them any more thought. Last night during a teardown I noticed a fair amount of play in the CVD pin on one side. It looks like where the little pin goes through the big one. I have a rebuild kit from waaayy back so i looked up the original 300 thread. first... I know play is a bad thing... but how much is OK before breakage is a real concern? Second... How have you guys found to be the best way to get the pin retaining ring off the CVD when it's in fine shape. (not warped bent or boogered up) Thanks-"thumbsup" |
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Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Interesting... Which end gets tapped, exactly? Photos are helpful. :mrgreen: |
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I have not seen a stripper since my bachelor party a little over 8 years, so I am due for a re-education on the subject. |
Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Use a heat gun & heat the retainer ring & use a small bladed screwdriver & tap around the edge on the stub end & it should slide off. I have used a torch but it(the whole CVD assy gets really hot, really quick) & WD 40 for the stubborn rings. |
Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Jeremy's method works great, in fact years ago I asked John (SDS) about it and he told me to use the same method. |
Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Most if the slop you see is the actual pin wearing and tapering on the ends and in the middle. I've broken a few of the SDS pins but I have gotten them from another source now and have yet to even start wearing them. Hell, I even broke a 300 short shaft at the Indiana state comp in 2010 with the other pins in running! Lol! One little pointer for ya. Take this for what you will but I've owned 4 sets of 300s now and not one single one would ever spin completely bind free. I have always mirror polished the ball and cup as well as ran a drill bit through the slot on the cup to clean out any burrs and make them equal on each side. After polishing and deburring the ball end and cup I would then break them in on my drill for about 10 mins each with fresh grease. I just mocked up a little jig with my drill and a bearing and cranked em to max angle and let the drill run full speed. Moving the stub end to a different position about every 5 minutes. I did this with new 300s and after a rebuild with new pins and barrels. Makes a huge difference IMO. |
Re: Super 300 rebuild questions As slop goes, from what i've found is the pin wears the most(as posted above) & will give quite a bit of movement at the wheel. How much is up to you and we know you are a perfectionist :ror: Mine is about an 1/8 to a 1/4 & doesn't seem to have to much when the power is on. |
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Re: Super 300 rebuild questions So I went to tap a stripper on the back end. It didn't help with the CVD but it was an interesting distraction. My wife was pretty mad at you guys for the advice ;-) Finally got it though. It was a stubborn booger. I had to use a really thin knife blade to get in the groove. You were correct. The pin was worn pretty good on each side where it passed into the barrel and the barrel was grooved pretty good too. Got it all buttoned back up now and the slop is gone. I only found the problem because I put in an RCBros locker last night and it wasn't as slop free as everyone said it should be... I found a gear pin that was broken and the sloppy CVD. :shock: Thanks guys. |
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Re: Super 300 rebuild questions I just dremel disk the fkr's off and put new ones on LOLOL true story |
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Later, Farmer |
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That was my next step if I hadn't gotten them off. :mrgreen: |
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