A few questions about superlites Are the superlites worth the money? Anyone disappointed in them? Do loaded dice make a big difference? Will Dlux brass knuckles provide enough weight? Anyone ever break an axle? Does the narrow width cause them to be unstable? What width hubs do all of you run? How hard is it to tune your rig to work well with these axles? I'm really debating between superlites and the B2 front with KR4 rear. Thanks all. |
Re: A few questions about superlites Building a set of Dlux super lite berg axles right now. Besides the builder (myself) the build is going very well. Watch video when/if you build a set super lite axles it will help you a lot. I'm almost done with the axles.. and I have confidence that I am going to like the axles. Until I get a couple comps under the axles can't really tell you which way to go. I like my berg with the modified stock axles and hope it gets even better with my new axles. I'd pick berg over bully axles. |
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As for the Loaded Dice, I think the best testimony for them was my girlfriend. She had never seen a crawler before and I took her to a comp. After we left she asked me why when the cars flipped over that mine always landed on the wheels and everyone else's always landed on the roof. But when your in a comp and you really need it to land on its wheels, thats the time it will still land on the freaking roof! Ugh |
Re: A few questions about superlites I used to run superlites, However I went back normal bergs and I couldn't be happier with swapping back. My set had heaps of small frustrating issues that I couldn't stand anymore. I kept destroying bearings. Longest i had bearings last was like 3 months and shortest was 2 battery's. this was only ever on the rear axle. I tried a few different brands. Tried different centers Delrin and 3D printed, I even machined up my own spacers to reduce any flex in the casing. I had no reliability so wasn't going to waste the money on buying the alloy centers. Sanded the cf plates to remove any high points, which there was a few small ones around the bearing pockets. The rear long tube didn't just bolt on and line up, I had to drill it out so it didn't rub on rear axle. My biggest issue I had was the front long tube was really flexy near the flange. In a bind you could see tube move. I wasn't a fan of the overall width of the axles, for the width I like to run, You end up running way to much scrub, so the rear end of the car moves around a heap while hanging from either front wheel. Also didn't like how much the wheel was behind the axle center line when at full lock. The only thing i did like was the 8mm stubs meant no more loose wheel nuts. I like the long front gearbox and short rear. This allowed more room to run a bigger servo and gave better motor clearance in the rear. I know a bunch won't agree with me on the above points. However I'm just expressing my disappointing experiences with these axles. |
Re: A few questions about superlites what is B2 and KR4 axles ? :| I just ordered non superlite dlux axles, I hope I'll be happy with it :shock::) |
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Re: A few questions about superlites Will Holmes 540 can motors be too heavy on these axles? |
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Even if/when I have heard of issues.. a simple PM to the man, gets almost all things taken care of! Quote:
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I'm running 16t 540 HH crawlmaster motors"thumbsup" |
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Well interesting enough this is true. You have to assemble things correctly for things to work correctly. However what do you do when original manufacture has terrible tolerancing on holes and bearing pocket locations and they don't line up side to side no matter what you do.. Is this the builders fault for incorrect assembly or manufacturer fault. Worst part is when they can't own up to there mistakes. |
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