Materials and dimensions.

[rockin]

I fell the need to try a build of a comp tuber (real scary right). My first one for that matter.

I have found a video of brazing and I'm pretty confident that I can do it. So...I have decided to use map gas with a self starting torch. But what do I use for material (alum., brass, steal...tube or rod)? I am also unsure of what size material to use also.

I also found a link to the official 2008 rules to try to make it as legal as possible. I see the min. required dimensions but not the max required. I do plan on using 2.2 tires if that helps, And I'm not sure what axles I am going to use just yet.


Thanks a bunch for the replys.

[chichisport]

Hello ,
This is my first post , I´m also interested in doing a tuber for my Ax10 .
It will be good to edit the name of the thread and include the words " plan request for a tuber " .I think it will atract more people and save me from opening another thread about the same topic.

Thanks

Juan

[Mriswith]

3/16th steel automotive brakeline is pretty much the standard tubing you see used. I mix it up with home center 1/8 rod which is a nice fit in the tubing I get. I use it for splicing tubing and in areas I want extra strength. Not really necessary but I'm a firm believer in that 'too much' is a good place to start. I've also use a bit of 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide flat steel stock. My Sniper build has a couple good pictures that shows what I used where but it's a scaler. Thats just kinda the common stuff. The brake line is realatively cheap and easy to get and looks about scale on builds.

As for size, why go bigger unless it's a scale project. You can go as big as you'd like but at some point it's gonna hurt your performance. I went tuber because I was tired of hanging up on bodies and wanted something a bit smaller and looks the way I like. That and nobody in my area did it.

[Venturestein]

Well I've never built a tuber (yet anyways) but as far as brazing goes, if your gonna have enough heat to braze you really might as well weld your joints. speaking from a welders perspective, and I've logged alot of hours as one. A weld is just gonna be a hell of alot stronger not to mention the fact that welds will be alot nicer to finish and paint.

Thats just my two bits, but gas welding is alot easier then brazing, does not smell as bad and is something like 4 times stronger, probably cheaper to buy filler rods as well.

[rockin]

Thank you very much for the answers guys, I would not have known about the brake line.

Does brazing smell bad? I will be attempting this on the patio of my apartment, so the smell could be an issue.

The gas wielding method sounds fine but again, the apartment is going to be an issue for that. I'm sure the apartment management would raise hell if i started using that.

[Venturestein]

Yeah brazing is just like welding save for the fact that instead of liquifying the steel you are bringing it to the verge of a liquid state, put up some heavy carboard the spatter should not burn through.

And yeah brazing flux stinks to high heaven and makes alot more smoke.

[whoodie]

You should be fine brazing on your patio, I did. But please make sure that you take the necessary safety precautions.

Brazing is better than welding because the heat affected zone tapers off whereas in welding the heat affected zone stops abruptly. Typically when a proper weld joint fails, it happens at the end of the heat affected zone, not at the joint. I also prefer brazing because it takes a LOT of skill to weld 3/16" brake line in the thicknesses we can get it. A properly brazed joint will require no sanding or filing to finish it off.

[rockin]

Wow guys thanks for the answers, You have given me great info. Now I just need to find a suitable place to do it and Ill be all set. I'm not sure the patio is a good place. I do like living here, I worry that the smell and smoke will raise a few eye brows and send some not so pleasant words my way.

Thanks agian