RCCrawler Forums

CHEETAHRON · 06-11-2009, 10:30 AM

I'm getting ready to bend and build my first tube chassis, If anyone has any tips or what to watch out for's i would appreciate it.

I think im gunna use 3/16 break line and braze it together, What do you think?

im planning on making flate plates with holes to use as gussets / mounting points.

ok im a big boy, tell me how i Should do it!

Thanks Guys

robsdak · 06-11-2009, 12:18 PM

go to rc4wd.com and buy one. best advice i can give.

TBex · 06-11-2009, 12:58 PM

Its simple once ya get started, learn as you go. First one wont be of best quality unly you spend around 2 weeks on it 6 hours a day and pay attention to detail like I did. I would suggest using 1/4 for the main cage and use the 3/16 for the in betweens. Just my .02 because it looks more proportional and realistic.

dieselfuel · 06-11-2009, 01:05 PM

don't just go buy one, you'll have more fun building your own.

brazed up 3/16" brake line is the way guys have been doing it for years. personally i think 3/16" with 1/8" solid rod for the smaller parts looks much more scale. 1/4" tube scales out to 2" that's kinda big.

TBex · 06-11-2009, 01:13 PM

Yeah 3/16 or 1/4 either one as long as you use the next size smaller tube for the smaller stuff will look good which ever way you go. 3/16 scales to 1.5 and 1/4 scales to 2 and on 1:1 99% of people, me included, use 1 3/4 tubing for the main chassis and 1.5 for the rest

bob1961 · 06-11-2009, 01:17 PM

it really isn't hard to braze once ya have the right stuff and practice a bit....here is my first ever tube frame i made, took bout 6 weeks but look how it came out

................bob

....

Robbob · 06-11-2009, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robsdak

go to rc4wd.com and buy one. best advice i can give.

what fun is that?

Measure 3 times, cut once, dont rush, red means HOT, be sure to knotch and clean your tubes well.

but best thing i can say after doing some is just take your time, its not a contest to see how fast you can build it. and best recommendation i can say is try to clean/file your joints as you build, makes it easier then trying when its all together.

Good Luck

gadge · 06-11-2009, 01:44 PM

I've been using 5/32 solid for most tubes and smaller for details
It scales out almost perfect with paint or powdercoat
3/16 in both n tube from there up
...good luck trying to kink or dent the solid rod

>for 1/10th scale
3/32 = 1".....
1/8 = 1 1/4"
5/32 = 1 5/8"
3/16 = approx 1 7/8 - 2"
etc.
>for 1/8 scale
1/8 = 1"
3/16= 1 1/2"
1/4" = 2"
5/16 = 2 1/2"

CHEETAHRON · 06-11-2009, 01:54 PM

thanks for the input, i can't wait to get started. here at work we just made some links for some guy across the pond in 2"x36" for his 1:1 climber
with 1 3/4 hiems. Ive never seen any that big before.

keep the sugestions cummin, i'm takin it all in!!!!!

philthewrench · 06-11-2009, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbob

what fun is that?

Measure 3 times, cut once, dont rush, red means HOT, be sure to knotch and clean your tubes well.

but best thing i can say after doing some is just take your time, its not a contest to see how fast you can build it. and best recommendation i can say is try to clean/file your joints as you build, makes it easier then trying when its all together.

Good Luck

If you didn't build it, it's not really yours

Phil

Lonewolf · 06-11-2009, 07:56 PM

Here is a build thread I did for my 1st tuber. hopefully there will be something there that will help or give ideas.

I advise getting some see thru type paper I used velum(a kind of drafting paper) Reason being is that you can copy around a shape then flip it over and see the exact mirror of the shape for the other side.

I learned this in hindsite........... My main frame would have been much easier to build.
Try and get a good look at the brakeline try and make sure it does NOT have any kind of lining and try to avoid the heavily galvonised brake line.

My thread shows exactly what I used I just followed the recomended procedure I got from here and all went smoothly

Good luck Dave

Here is the link to my thread Lonewolfs Tuber

wonder squirrel · 06-11-2009, 08:01 PM

My tip.

Get the right materials to do the job. It will take alot of headache out of the build.

Harris Safety Silv 45/ 56 brazing rod is pretty much the standard. Its strong, its proven, it works well for what we do with it. Theres other stuff out there, but again, this is proven reliable and available online if not local.

Harris white brazing flux. Again, works well with the safety silv and what we do with it. Its also highly likely to be at the same shop you get your brazing rod from.

Mapp gas in the yellow bottle. I'd recommend the torch end with the operators button. The tip is adjustable and your less likely to waste fuel or burn yourself if you have to hold the button down to keep your torch lit. I've built 4 tubers so far on the first bottle.

Goodluck.

CHEETAHRON · 06-12-2009, 05:49 AM

L W thanks for the build thread , thats gunna help big time, nice work. im ready to give it a try, i start bending this weekend!

wish me luck, i'm going in!!!

06-11-2009, 10:30 AM	#1
CHEETAHRON Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Annville Posts: 35	tube frame question I'm getting ready to bend and build my first tube chassis, If anyone has any tips or what to watch out for's i would appreciate it. I think im gunna use 3/16 break line and braze it together, What do you think? im planning on making flate plates with holes to use as gussets / mounting points. ok im a big boy, tell me how i Should do it! Thanks Guys

06-11-2009, 01:13 PM	#5
TBex Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Vincennes, Indiana Posts: 123	Yeah 3/16 or 1/4 either one as long as you use the next size smaller tube for the smaller stuff will look good which ever way you go. 3/16 scales to 1.5 and 1/4 scales to 2 and on 1:1 99% of people, me included, use 1 3/4 tubing for the main chassis and 1.5 for the rest Last edited by TBex; 06-11-2009 at 01:14 PM. Reason: spelling

06-11-2009, 12:18 PM	#2
robsdak Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Crestview Posts: 166	go to rc4wd.com and buy one. best advice i can give.

06-11-2009, 12:58 PM	#3
TBex Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Vincennes, Indiana Posts: 123	Its simple once ya get started, learn as you go. First one wont be of best quality unly you spend around 2 weeks on it 6 hours a day and pay attention to detail like I did. I would suggest using 1/4 for the main cage and use the 3/16 for the in betweens. Just my .02 because it looks more proportional and realistic.

06-11-2009, 01:05 PM	#4
dieselfuel I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Henderson/Las Vegas, NV Posts: 5,032	don't just go buy one, you'll have more fun building your own. brazed up 3/16" brake line is the way guys have been doing it for years. personally i think 3/16" with 1/8" solid rod for the smaller parts looks much more scale. 1/4" tube scales out to 2" that's kinda big.

06-11-2009, 01:17 PM	#6
bob1961 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Wayne county. PA Posts: 2,507	it really isn't hard to braze once ya have the right stuff and practice a bit....here is my first ever tube frame i made, took bout 6 weeks but look how it came out ................bob ....

06-11-2009, 01:44 PM	#8
gadge Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: in the shop, of corse! Posts: 361	I've been using 5/32 solid for most tubes and smaller for details It scales out almost perfect with paint or powdercoat 3/16 in both n tube from there up ...good luck trying to kink or dent the solid rod >for 1/10th scale 3/32 = 1"..... 1/8 = 1 1/4" 5/32 = 1 5/8" 3/16 = approx 1 7/8 - 2" etc. >for 1/8 scale 1/8 = 1" 3/16= 1 1/2" 1/4" = 2" 5/16 = 2 1/2"

06-11-2009, 01:54 PM	#9
CHEETAHRON Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Annville Posts: 35	thanks for the input, i can't wait to get started. here at work we just made some links for some guy across the pond in 2"x36" for his 1:1 climber with 1 3/4 hiems. Ive never seen any that big before. keep the sugestions cummin, i'm takin it all in!!!!!

06-11-2009, 07:56 PM	#11
Lonewolf Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: N.E. Mpls Posts: 854	Here is a build thread I did for my 1st tuber. hopefully there will be something there that will help or give ideas. I advise getting some see thru type paper I used velum(a kind of drafting paper) Reason being is that you can copy around a shape then flip it over and see the exact mirror of the shape for the other side. I learned this in hindsite........... My main frame would have been much easier to build. Try and get a good look at the brakeline try and make sure it does NOT have any kind of lining and try to avoid the heavily galvonised brake line. My thread shows exactly what I used I just followed the recomended procedure I got from here and all went smoothly Good luck Dave Here is the link to my thread Lonewolfs Tuber

06-11-2009, 08:01 PM	#12
wonder squirrel Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Central Coast Posts: 667	My tip. Get the right materials to do the job. It will take alot of headache out of the build. Harris Safety Silv 45/ 56 brazing rod is pretty much the standard. Its strong, its proven, it works well for what we do with it. Theres other stuff out there, but again, this is proven reliable and available online if not local. Harris white brazing flux. Again, works well with the safety silv and what we do with it. Its also highly likely to be at the same shop you get your brazing rod from. Mapp gas in the yellow bottle. I'd recommend the torch end with the operators button. The tip is adjustable and your less likely to waste fuel or burn yourself if you have to hold the button down to keep your torch lit. I've built 4 tubers so far on the first bottle. Goodluck.

06-12-2009, 05:49 AM	#13
CHEETAHRON Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Annville Posts: 35	L W thanks for the build thread , thats gunna help big time, nice work. im ready to give it a try, i start bending this weekend! wish me luck, i'm going in!!!

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