Stripped Hex Screws

[Den72]

It seems to me that a stripped hex screw is a common occurrence. Can this be eliminated by upgrading everything to stainless? How do you avoid stripping and furthermore how do you extract a stripped screw?

[MrAwesome987]

Originally Posted by Den72

It seems to me that a stripped hex screw is a common occurrence. Can this be eliminated by upgrading everything to stainless? How do you avoid stripping and furthermore how do you extract a stripped screw?

Stainless will strip too. Upgrading to good hex drivers will help a ton, and in some cases even extract a stuck screw.

If the stuck screw is accessible, one option is to grind a flat in it with a Dremel and extract using a flat blade screw driver.

[Panther6834]

I've run into this same problem several times. One way to avoid it is to purchase higher quality. I'm not saying you purchased something 'cheap', but certain brands (Vanquish, XRAY, etc) are known to use higher quality metals (part of why they cost more...tho, to a certain extent, I'm guessing we're also paying for the 'name'). It sure would be nice if the manufacturers offered Ti hex pin screws.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Den72]

Any links to a higher quality set of tools? Is there a different set of screws that are better than stock?

At this point my son has resorted to using a Dremel to cut off the shaft from the gear in the transmission, and has plans to just replace the gear. To me this seems extreme and would like to find solutions so when I go to replace the drivelines I can avoid this problem.

[Panther6834]

MIP is one of the best options for tools...not exactly 'cheap'to bite outstanding quality of and longevity. A great alternate choice (slightly less expensive, and almost as good) would be the TruTek SL tools through Amain.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[MrAwesome987]

I have a set of these and they work great. Much much better than using hex keys. https://www.amazon.com/OFNMY-Driver-...265085&sr=8-20

[indybama]

When i have a screw strip out, i use a torx bit. It tends to bite what lil bit of the hex is left. I think ive only had to use a dremel 1x to get a screw out.

But as mentioned above, a good set of tools helps to prevent stripping. As for hardware, i use team knk stainless

[WHITE-TRASH]

Black oxide steel are the strongest screws and less prone to strip. Stainless is softer than regular steel and tends to strip easier and will gall running your day if you aren't careful. Titanium and aluminum hardware is ok for weight savings but it isn't strong enough for some uses and it is very easy to strip the hex right out of the head even with good tools.

That said slotting with a skinny wheel on a dremel is my go to move. Even on motor pinions and drive shafts it will usually work.

Torx bits pounded into stripped screws works well too if you can find one small enough.

Mip tools are pretty precise, vanquish are nice, I have a bunch of their replacement tips in old integy handles so I have their quality at a cheaper price. Associated has their tools that are probably one of the better bangs for the buck.

[Den72]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Black oxide steel are the strongest screws and less prone to strip. Stainless is softer than regular steel and tends to strip easier and will gall running your day if you aren't careful. Titanium and aluminum hardware is ok for weight savings but it isn't strong enough for some uses and it is very easy to strip the hex right out of the head even with good tools.

That said slotting with a skinny wheel on a dremel is my go to move. Even on motor pinions and drive shafts it will usually work.

Torx bits pounded into stripped screws works well too if you can find one small enough.

Mip tools are pretty precise, vanquish are nice, I have a bunch of their replacement tips in old integy handles so I have their quality at a cheaper price. Associated has their tools that are probably one of the better bangs for the buck.

So if I can find a black oxide screw set that would be the way to go?

[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by Den72

So if I can find a black oxide screw set that would be the way to go?

One thing you don't see too too much of when researching or see stuff is referenced to the term"snug".

It's very hard to fully grasp what you and I may consider snug while working on our full size vehicles, and 1/10 of the torque isn't realistic I believe so it really comes down to feel and making sure that everything you tighten the tool is centered and sunk completely into the head of said fastener, also tool etiquette such as not using a "wallering out motion" well tightening or loosening any fastener, simply always making sure your conscious of the way your hand and tool is moving can prevent a lot of stripped fasteners. You might be blown away at just how tough these little screws are considering how often I've had to replace them due to their heads being rounded. A lot of factory parts also come with loctite on them if it's a metal fastener threading into a metal object. Sometimes touching the tip of a hot soldering iron for a few minutes or a minute tops, is enough to loosen up the loctite and allow you to after having slotted the screw use a flat head to unscrew it.

I found at AutoZone recently in automotive tool section, duralast has a lifetime warranty impact screw extractor set it was like 14 bucks and I have yet to open it but I haven't had to use extractors and drills a lot in the early months of my RC hobby. I suggest looking at every stripped fastener as a pop quiz or another way to learn to perfect your screw extracting as it is quite a critical skill to have in this hobby.

So my point is, snug means simply screwed down till the head of the fastener touches the surface it should be "clamping/securing"...then depending on the depth of the threaded hole and whatever may lie on the other side of said hole, usually a simple 1/4 of a 360° rotation is plenty though I know we all like to give it a little extra *eeek!* As I call it just to be sure, though this can lead to many other issues down the road such as fried bearings bushings etc

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[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Den72

So if I can find a black oxide screw set that would be the way to go?

Yea they are the strongest option and cheap.

[vinnieb729]

I've used these Engineer screw removal pliers for a variety of tasks. They work fantastic on stripped screws and are often much simpler and quicker than extractors. There's a few different shapes but the PZ-58's are all I've tried. Vamplier is another brand that appears to be rebranded Engineer.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-5...1389356&sr=8-2

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by vinnieb729

I've used these Engineer screw removal pliers for a variety of tasks. They work fantastic on stripped screws and are often much simpler and quicker than extractors. There's a few different shapes but the PZ-58's are all I've tried. Vamplier is another brand that appears to be rebranded Engineer.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-5...1389356&sr=8-2

Looks like those should work on just about any damaged screw...well, with two exceptions: flathead, and screws that sheared just below the head. Looks like I'll be adding another tool to my collection.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Looks like those should work on just about any damaged screw...well, with two exceptions: flathead, and screws that sheared just below the head. Looks like I'll be adding another tool to my collection.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

The link didnt work on my end, but if they are anything like these, which i purchased off the Matco truck...they are PHENOMENAL!! ABSOLUTE GOLLLD!

BUT!, They dont always fit where u need em to!

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[borlo]

In addition to purchasing quality hex drivers (Vanquish and MIP) and being very careful with tool angle and technique as already mentioned, I bought an assortment of black oxide screws in the common sizes used in 1/10 rigs on Amazon. If anything is suspect, I replace it. That doesn't help once it is already stripped, but keeping newer hardware is good insurance moving forward.

for example:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ferp420]

i use all methods above but when they dont work its drill time
i just bought 2 outrunners with the shaft sticking out the wrong side and the set screews were hoged out bad and locktighted in i had no other option but to drill heres whats left of the setscrew when im done

[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by ferp420

i use all methods above but when they dont work its drill time
i just bought 2 outrunners with the shaft sticking out the wrong side and the set screews were hoged out bad and locktighted in i had no other option but to drill heres whats left of the setscrew when im done

TBH.....id say for me, my luck, and the screws' locations where i decide to not pay attention for 2.5 seconds....it usually ends in SO MUCH this!!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Stop!

Its Drillin' time! Lmbo!

Luckily i invested in Matco Tools' fancy/bougie "Hyper-step" drill bits with the ol' "Expensive tools warranty, so when i wear em down (supposedly cannot sharpen them?), I hand em in and get fresh ones on the spot! Believe me, ive drilled some metals in my days as an auto tech. . . .some of these RC screws are the Achilles heel of even the most perfect drilling techniques/bits/experience, etc .

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[ferp420]

Originally Posted by 23drumerboy

TBH.....id say for me, my luck, and the screws' locations where i decide to not pay attention for 2.5 seconds....it usually ends in SO MUCH this!!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Stop!

Its Drillin' time! Lmbo!

Luckily i invested in Matco Tools' fancy/bougie "Hyper-step" drill bits with the ol' "Expensive tools warranty, so when i wear em down (supposedly cannot sharpen them?), I hand em in and get fresh ones on the spot! Believe me, ive drilled some metals in my days as an auto tech. . . .some of these RC screws are the Achilles heel of even the most perfect drilling techniques/bits/experience, etc .

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!

back in the day when i used to be a small engine /auto/heavy equipment mechanic before nerds took over the industry and started waring gloves and calling them selves technicians i learned just about every method of extracting broken bolts and drilling them out everytime something came in to the shop that had broken bolts it was my job to fix them i got pretty good at it

[Levi]

Get a good set of drivers, map's are great . Stripped screws, try using a torx bit or a left handed drill bit.

[MAGNUMB]

The spring steel on Hudy's drivers give better "feel' than MIP. A little pricey but worth it for me and they are lightweight and nice to use for a long period of time.