Went with a 10.2 builder KIT for my first 1/10. Help with plans?

[93civEJ1]

Ok, so I brought home a 10.2 SCX builders kit earlier and some Pro-Line Hyrax tires on some wheels.

at this moment I am planning on doing a pro-line gladiator body, but not 100% sure due to it being a lot smaller in scale size than most other 1/10 scale bodies. Only reason I want to do it, is because i drive a 1:1 gladiator and want to try to mimic what I drive.

For electronics, that is where I need a little help and guidance. I am trying to do a budget friendly build if at all possible. Here is what I am thinking so far:

Hobbywing 1080 for ESC.
Flysky GT5 with Flysky receiver many of them come with online.
holmes hobbies crawlmaster or trail master motor.
no clue on battery, thinking 3S

Here is where I need help.
For the motor, can a 550 fit on the SCX10.2 chassis? Why would a 550 be more beneficial over a 540, or is it? What works well with turn size? I get a little lost here when it comes to the sizes and gears.

For the battery, it looks like the HW 1080 has a XT60 connector. Do I need to find a battery with this style of connector or do I just change the plug out to whatever I end up with?

What about battery size? I want to run 3S just for a little more umph when I dont feel like always crawling. what MAH is a good one for playing a good while? WHat about the C rating?

The scx10.2 build kit looks like the battery is a little on one side and forward biased, is there a certain body size of battery that works best for these 10.2 kits?

What is a good cheap charger that will work well for the battery choice?

Any help would be appreciated. Ill probably start bolting things together tonight on the chassis build.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by 93civEJ1

Ok, so I brought home a 10.2 SCX builders kit earlier and some Pro-Line Hyrax tires on some wheels.

at this moment I am planning on doing a pro-line gladiator body, but not 100% sure due to it being a lot smaller in scale size than most other 1/10 scale bodies. Only reason I want to do it, is because i drive a 1:1 gladiator and want to try to mimic what I drive.

For electronics, that is where I need a little help and guidance. I am trying to do a budget friendly build if at all possible. Here is what I am thinking so far:

Hobbywing 1080 for ESC.
Flysky GT5 with Flysky receiver many of them come with online.
holmes hobbies crawlmaster or trail master motor.
no clue on battery, thinking 3S

Here is where I need help.
For the motor, can a 550 fit on the SCX10.2 chassis? Why would a 550 be more beneficial over a 540, or is it? What works well with turn size? I get a little lost here when it comes to the sizes and gears.

For the battery, it looks like the HW 1080 has a XT60 connector. Do I need to find a battery with this style of connector or do I just change the plug out to whatever I end up with?

What about battery size? I want to run 3S just for a little more umph when I dont feel like always crawling. what MAH is a good one for playing a good while? WHat about the C rating?

The scx10.2 build kit looks like the battery is a little on one side and forward biased, is there a certain body size of battery that works best for these 10.2 kits?

What is a good cheap charger that will work well for the battery choice?

Any help would be appreciated. Ill probably start bolting things together tonight on the chassis build.

I just did this build. The stock battery tray has to go. I ended up getting this awesome battery tray.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It puts the servo in a better place. It lays the battery down lower. But it makes the 540 a tight fit. You could use a smaller battery and cut some of this tray off to make room for the 550, but the 540 seems fine for it.

Id get that tray and a holmes hobby 540 with that 1080 and be done.

[indybama]

Nice choice! As for a motor, id go with a trailmaster sport in a 540 otherwise youll have to turn the trans around to fit the 550 motor. If i remember correctly, the 550 is a lil more torquey. But it may b the other way around lol

The xt60 connector has become rather popular. Its easy to get ahold of to connect/disconnect.

Battery wise, 3s will do just fine. I use ovanic batteries. I have a couple 3000 mah 50c n they last better than a hr each.

The flysky gt5 is a good radio. U can also use the flysky fs-ia6 reciever with that radio. Theyre a bit cheaper than the fs-bs6 ones.

[93civEJ1]

Thanks for the info all. I think i had read that some people run a 550, just gotta trim some of the corner of the stock battery tray. Ill probably start an amain order soon, the battery ill prob hit up amazon unless you can get something decent as cheap from the hobby store?

Any thoughts on charger?

[lonleycreeper]

Battery life depends on how you drive...

3s or nothing... I like 2200mah 30c packs to keep weight down.

A 540 size 35t or 27t HH trailmaster or 16t crawlmaster... imo it give a good balance in speed and run time...

A 550 motor is longer and has more torque than a 540, but it isn't that noticeable....In reality.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

A 550 will 100% fit, I have one in my 10.2. Just had to trim a little bit of my battery tray, but no big deal.




_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[twade984]

IMO, do yourself a favor and install this when you build the kit. It helps stiffen the front chassis up a lot, holds your servo in there solid and it’s a lot cleaner/less parts than the stock setup.

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/bow-bsx-0060c-v2.htm

That will give you clearance to run a 550, definitely get a Holmes sport to start off with. I would recommend either an 8t, 10t, or 12t Crawlmaster. Crawlmaster because of improved low end control. The 8t is pretty quick, but still very manageable when crawling. Can always adjust pinion size to fine tune after that.

Definitely 3s, I also use ovonic air packs from Amazon, buy them with xt60 plugs for around $15 each. I usually get 2 packs of 3000mah. 50c I believe is sufficient for crawling.

I used the dynamite passport charger, it’s about $45 on Amazon. I liked it while I had it. I have a protek prodigy charger now, don’t really like it.

Don’t forget a servo! I’ve used the popular budget Amazon/eBay servos, ds3218, ds3225 and ds3235. Much prefer the ds3235, it’s smoother/quieter than the others. You can use the included aluminum servo horn, but it may require some sanding to clear the frame rail. You’ll most likely want to upgrade later, but any of those will get you going.

I love my Flysky gt5, although I’ve only run rtr radios besides that.

Also, be prepared to upgrade the shocks. Traxxas GTS trx4 shocks are very popular, and can be had fairly cheap. Your stock springs will swap right onto them. Element enduro shocks are also pretty popular, but a little harder to find outside of the factory team bronze shock set, which is still a good value.

[Levi]

The stock battery tray is definitely junk. Especially if your making planning upgrading the servo and front end. The bowhouse version is alot better quality. But it was not for my liking on my rbk, probably save it for my honco build. I ended up using a atomic battery mount and love it. Your right though, the proline gladiator body is smaller and not to scale. I'm working on that same body for my build. Still like the proline gladiator body, but the axial gladiator body looks way better. That's why I bought a axial gladiator and love the looks of it.

[93civEJ1]

Thanks all. Ill look into the battery trays and other mods once I run it a bit. I made my order a moment ago to finish up my parts. I ordered a 550 27T trailmaster. 1080 ESC. a DS3225 servo, and a pack of 2 5200 50C Goldbat batteries, and the flysky GT5/receiver and Gladiator pro line body. ill run it and do it and see how it is. Just hate the mini look of it compared to most 1/10.
I am looking forward to getting this thing up and running. Once I play with it a while, i will look at changing / modding things.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by 93civEJ1

Thanks all. Ill look into the battery trays and other mods once I run it a bit. I made my order a moment ago to finish up my parts. I ordered a 550 27T trailmaster. 1080 ESC. a DS3225 servo, and a pack of 2 5200 50C Goldbat batteries, and the flysky GT5/receiver and Gladiator pro line body. ill run it and do it and see how it is. Just hate the mini look of it compared to most 1/10.
I am looking forward to getting this thing up and running. Once I play with it a while, i will look at changing / modding things.

I don't really see why people say the stock battery tray is junk. i haven't had any issues with it. Maybe once I run a metal one I'll see why? I don't know lol.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by 93civEJ1

Thanks all. Ill look into the battery trays and other mods once I run it a bit. I made my order a moment ago to finish up my parts. I ordered a 550 27T trailmaster. 1080 ESC. a DS3225 servo, and a pack of 2 5200 50C Goldbat batteries, and the flysky GT5/receiver and Gladiator pro line body. ill run it and do it and see how it is. Just hate the mini look of it compared to most 1/10.
I am looking forward to getting this thing up and running. Once I play with it a while, i will look at changing / modding things.

I don't really see why people say the stock battery tray is junk. i haven't had any issues with it. Maybe once I run a metal one I'll see why? I don't know lol.

I'm not a fan of the Proline Gladiator. It looks way too tall and small. It's just very off.

[Topher Builds]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

I don't really see why people say the stock battery tray is junk. i haven't had any issues with it. Maybe once I run a metal one I'll see why? I don't know lol.

It’s generally because the stock battery tray makes the battery have to lay on its side which causes weight to sit pretty high on the chassis. The stock plastics don’t hold up the best for high torque servos and can flex as well.

Something like the bowhouse, or the Samix tray/servo relocation helps with both.

[twade984]

What TB said ^, and it’s just ridiculous the amount of individual pieces that have to go together to make something that could have very easily been one piece. But that’s also just being a little nit-picky.

It will definitely get the op started, and that’s a big factor of having and enjoying these toy trucks. Trying things out, learning what you do and don’t like, and buying/building different things.

Look forward to seeing the final product 93EJ!

[Levi]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

It’s generally because the stock battery tray makes the battery have to lay on its side which causes weight to sit pretty high on the chassis. The stock plastics don’t hold up the best for high torque servos and can flex as well.

Something like the bowhouse, or the Samix tray/servo relocation helps with both.

Bingo, lol. I'll be running a high torque servo in my rbk and wanted something to hold up tonthe abuse. The stock one is ok, but I'm going for something durable.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

It’s generally because the stock battery tray makes the battery have to lay on its side which causes weight to sit pretty high on the chassis. The stock plastics don’t hold up the best for high torque servos and can flex as well.

Something like the bowhouse, or the Samix tray/servo relocation helps with both.

Yeah, I can see that. I’d like to get a metal one for that reason to be able to set my bodies lower because now the body hits the battery.




_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[93civEJ1]

Can someone tell me what number 4 on the trans plastic tree is from the kit? I cant see anywhere in the guide where it is used.

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by 93civEJ1

Can someone tell me what number 4 on the trans plastic tree is from the kit? I cant see anywhere in the guide where it is used.

ill take a stab at it i have 2 ideas as to were it might go i can only guess as i can5 see the oth3r parts and both guesses involve the input shaft

first guess

it could.fit the center of the spur gear alot of people put a.bearing in there cause when the slipper.clutch gets hot.that plastic collor deforms and the spur gear gets wobbly i use siesed bearings for that part myself cause it.dosent spin its just works as a metal.spacer

second guess is a filler that goes between the trans case and the slipper assembaly to keep everything inline



my memeory is a bit fuzzy its been along time since ive worked on a factory axial 3 gear transmission

[Topher Builds]

Originally Posted by ferp420

it could.fit the center of the spur gear alot of people put a.bearing in there cause when the slipper.clutch gets hot.that plastic collor deforms and the spur gear gets wobbly i use siesed bearings for that part myself cause it.dosent spin its just works as a metal.spacer

^

[93civEJ1]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

^

its not that in mine. mine had a black cirle one that was included in the bag for use with the spur gear. This one is the same color as the hard plastic gray trans case.

Notice also in the guide, there is no number "4" next to the part diagram TB posted. usually if its from a tree, it will have the single digit number with it.