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-   -   Can you use JB weld to construct a tube frame? (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-crawlers/83944-can-you-use-jb-weld-construct-tube-frame.html)

Barillms 09-05-2007 02:45 PM

Can you use JB weld to construct a tube frame?
 
Not to sound too hillbilly here, but I was curious... has anyone ever tried making an aluminum tube frame using JB weld at the unions to connect the pieces? JB weld is some strong stuff... if you did it right, it might work.

For those who can't weld or braze aluminum...

I think using brakeline isn't a good idea... isn't it too soft?
Too soft to weld? Sounds like it wound bend really easy.

Mikekx65 09-05-2007 02:49 PM

Well first off i dont think jb weld would hold up to all the beatings that crawlers go through. second brake line is fairly soft as a 5' rod but it gets to be VERY strong after its brazed or welded into a frame...some guys i know have drove off 10-15' ledges landing on just the tube frames and there was minimal damage.

'83 chevy 09-05-2007 02:52 PM

Yes brake line is soft, but if you add the proper bracing to it, it can be very strong. I can stand on all my frames whether brazed or MIG welded together.

Grizzly4x4 09-05-2007 02:55 PM

I once used 3/16" aluminum tube to build a roll bar. I threaded 3mm all-thread into the ends of the rear down bars. I then drilled holes in the main hoop for these "pins" to sit in at each joint. I filled the holes with JB weld and spread it around the joint.

It actually lasted longer than I thought and I think if you used 1/4" thick wall tube or solid 3/16" it might work pretty good.

If you didn't pin the joints and just used JB, I don't think it'd be much good for more than a shelf queen. 8)

grapegoat 09-05-2007 03:09 PM

I was bored one rainy Oregon day and started hacking up a bunch of extra plastic clothes hangers I had in my closet. The initial idea was to make a mock up of what I want my (steel) tube frame to look like. I just used hot glue and started gluing and bracing. by the time I was done, I had a sweet lookin mock up, then I wasn't paying attention and stepped on it. nothing. didn't brake or crack or anything. So I picked it up and squeezed it with all my might and still couldn't tear it apart. I was slamming it against a concrete wall, everything I could think of. It was immensely tough If you brace it just right. I had the slight thought of using it as a cage, but I came to my senses and realized how ghetto that is. :lol:

Barillms 09-05-2007 04:48 PM

83 Chevy guy, how can you MIG break line without burning holes in it like crazy?
Obviously lowest setting, but thats gotta be hard to do!

Grizzly4x4 09-05-2007 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barillms (Post 837391)
83 Chevy guy, how can you MIG break line without burning holes in it like crazy?
Obviously lowest setting, but thats gotta be hard to do!

Guido's tube structure is all MIG welded 3/16" brakeline.;-)

It takes practice but once you get the hang of it it's really pretty easy. I don't use the lowest setting on mine either. I like it set hot.8)

badltl510 09-05-2007 05:14 PM

I was bored one day at work and built a tube chassis with 1/16th" steel filler rod for tig welding. I tig welded it all together and when I was done I was able to stand on it. I am 220 lbs. This was just .060 welding wire not tube which is stronger then wire.

'83 chevy 09-05-2007 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barillms (Post 837391)
83 Chevy guy, how can you MIG break line without burning holes in it like crazy?
Obviously lowest setting, but thats gotta be hard to do!

Thin wire(.023) and medium heat. Just do a bunch of little spots. I had it set so good that I was able to burn little beads on 3/16" brake line, it was very hard to do, but it can be done.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e3...R/frame2-1.jpg

Big Mike 09-06-2007 07:03 AM

Quote:

Not to sound too hillbilly here
Ha - that's funny. Thinking about it a bit, I don't see why you could'nt pull this off successfully.

Quote:

If you pin the joints
Griz made the point there - add extra mechanical advantage. It would'nt even have to thread into the rod ends, straight pins would suffice IMO. I've used JB for a lot of weird stuff (non-rc) and I'm here to tell you it's some STRONG stuff.

Anybody ever seen the old-school JB counter displays? With the old Coke bottle with stuff stuck all over it? Try to break any of that stuff off. (without going totally bananas on it of course)

If you pinned the joints like Grizzly is talking about, my bet would be that you'd end up with a workable chassis. Provided your design was properly braced. Tube length, diameter, wall thickness, and geometry plays a very important role, materials and methods aside.

Quote:

then I wasn't paying attention and stepped on it. nothing. didn't break or crack or anything
Case in point - Grapegoat you must have had some good geometry going on there, it plays a very important role in overall strength. I mean we're talking plastic coat hangers and hot glue here.

Quote:

I think using brakeline isn't a good idea... isn't it too soft
Naw, brakeline is mild steel. Properly configured, it will be plenty strong. You can brass-braze brakeline, thats as strong as welding if done properly.

Now you guys have got me to thinking again - I already have everything on hand to try this. Hmmmm.....

yjwill 09-06-2007 03:00 PM

I have seen radiators on 1:1's JB Welded on that held up to Florida mud bashings...It is pretty strong stuff.

K.Gibson 09-06-2007 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '83 chevy (Post 837423)
Thin wire(.023) and medium heat. Just do a bunch of little spots. I had it set so good that I was able to burn little beads on 3/16" brake line, it was very hard to do, but it can be done.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e3...R/frame2-1.jpg

What material did you use for the frame?
Did you sand that after welding?
That is a very good looking chassis.
I just hope mine comes out that clean.

rash_powder 09-06-2007 04:28 PM

there are kits available on the internet for brazing/soldering aluminum together. some rather low temp stuff available, as well as the high temp stuff.

http://tinmantech.chainreactionweb.c...71c983b37e7478

http://durafix.com/index.html#order

http://www.muggyweld.com/pricelist.html

http://www.keep-it-kool.com/braze/braze_1.html

http://www.keep-it-kool.com/braze/braze_1.html

i was really looking into this process a while back. some pretty decent looking products there. the second link can be done with a common propane torch.

rash

Barillms 09-06-2007 07:35 PM

Now.... to make the bends in this tube and brake line material, do you need a parts bender? Or are you guys doing this with the old thumb method?

Big Mike 09-07-2007 07:37 AM

You'll definitely need to invest 20-30 bucks in a tubing bender to get clean, kink-free bends. Especially if you are looking for exact radiuses. (Radii? how do you pluralize that?) Any good auto parts place should be able to hook you up.
Or if you're savvy about it you can create your own bending forms out of wood blocks. I'd go with a tubing bender myself, just for ease of use and versatilty...

landy-ross 09-07-2007 10:15 AM

do you think if the design of a 1:1 land rover 90 hard top external cage would be strong enough in brass (soldered joints)?? (with two internal diagonals too

'83 chevy 09-07-2007 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K.Gibson (Post 838530)
What material did you use for the frame?
Did you sand that after welding?
That is a very good looking chassis.
I just hope mine comes out that clean.

Thanks, it is 1/4" brake line, its that shiny because that pic was taken after wire brushing it.

And on the topic of benders, most of that frame was built using coiled brake line and hand formed bends. I used a bender on the shock hoops and some other things.

K.Gibson 09-07-2007 07:04 PM

Quote:

Thanks, it is 1/4" brake line, its that shiny because that pic was taken after wire brushing it.
Thanks man, So the round tube is 1/4".
Is the base tubing square?
If so what size?

And do you guys notch (Fish Eye) the tubing?
If so what do you use to do the notching?
Sorry for so many questions I'm just trying to learn. : )


Thanks in advance

'83 chevy 09-07-2007 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K.Gibson (Post 839672)
Thanks man, So the round tube is 1/4".
Is the base tubing square?
If so what size?

And do you guys notch (Fish Eye) the tubing?
If so what do you use to do the notching?
Sorry for so many questions I'm just trying to learn. : )


Thanks in advance

The base tube is 1/2" square steel tubing. I did fish mount the tubing. I use a 1/4" end mill and the lathe. But a chainsaw file works well too.

steyn2 09-08-2007 12:30 PM

JB Weld?
 
sure no problem.

I don't know exactly what JB weld is, i live in holland, and we don't have it here. what i used to stick together a aluminium 'broken in half' buggy chassis is 2 component metal glue. (epoxy based) mix well, apply, clamp and heat up in the oven for ten minutes a 200 degrees celcius (pizza temp.)

worked fine for me"thumbsup"


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