cutnshut twin axles

[jordanator62]

i just finished cut n shutting my twin force axles, making them 11 inches wide with bft's on. but i have a problem, i need to shorten the drive shafts in the axles, but im afraid if i do, they will not be strong enough. what do you all recommend?

[TerribleOne]

so those dogbones go inside the axle?..i know nothing about force axles...

I would just look for another truck that uses smaller dogbones...maybe like hpi something..whats the lenght they need to be?

[JasonInAugusta]

I would suggest contacting RCALLOYS and have him make you a set from stainless steel.

$40 if I remember correctly.

[jordanator62]

jeez, $40 haha, i was looking for a little cheaper of an answer. uh lets see, i think the dogbones need to be about 3 3/8", and i will need 4 of them. is there any way i could cut them or anything of that sort?

thanks
jordan

[JasonInAugusta]

You could try cutting them and re-welding, but then you'd have to worry about how straight they are.

Here's something I found on Tower.

You said you needed 3 5/8"....that's 92.075mm

Here's some 92.5mm dogbones for the Duratrax Axis/Nitro Quake.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPR93&P=7

[jordanator62]

yea, i was thinking of cutting a chunk out, then sliding a sleeve over them and JBwelding the sleeve on(i dont have a welder). do you think that would hold it?
for $11 bucks i cant really go wrong, thanks for the link.

[JasonInAugusta]

If you cut them, I'd suggest a grub screw and sleeve (assuming you grind a flat spot on each half of the dogbone) if you have the space inside the axle.

Something I'm wondering....Why on earth would you cut the axles down without having a plan for dogbones ahead of time?

[jordanator62]

hahaha, i dont know, it just seemed like a good idea. i just had these axles laying around, so i decided to use them on a scale truck, and started cutting. i think ill use the grub screw, that should keep power to the wheels ha

thanks

[jordanator62]

anyone else have any ideas before i go and start cutting?

[toyofast]

Originally Posted by jordanator62

anyone else have any ideas before i go and start cutting?

Take some pictures as you go

[rcracer]

I extended some shafts by cutting the shaft and using a press pin that slides over the shaft and welded it. know anyone with a welder or go to a local shop. worst case, send me the shafts and I'll weld them for ya. FYI, I tried jb weld and it doesn't hold. good luck and test fit your lengths before you weld them up

[Trac95ker]

Take a piece of mild steel rod from the hardware store and drill into the ends. Around an inch is good. Cut your shafts in half and drop them in the holes. Braze the ends in. All you need is a propane torch and a brazing rod from the hardware store.

Its that simple. I've done this to both drive shafts and I made a short axle from two broken axles on my TF. It works very well. You'll snap the shaft before the braze lets go. When the metal glows orange the brazing rod will melt and fill the gap between the metal parts.

[JasonInAugusta]

Originally Posted by Trac95ker

Take a piece of mild steel rod from the hardware store and drill into the ends. Around an inch is good. Cut your shafts in half and drop them in the holes. Braze the ends in. All you need is a propane torch and a brazing rod from the hardware store.

Its that simple. I've done this to both drive shafts and I made a short axle from two broken axles on my TF. It works very well. You'll snap the shaft before the braze lets go. When the metal glows orange the brazing rod will melt and fill the gap between the metal parts.

If you do this, be careful not to heat the pieces to the point that they get soft and sag.

[Trac95ker]

Thats a good point but it was'nt that much of a concern after I did it a couple times. Keep the torch moving and touch the brazing rod to the piece your heating. As soon as the metal is hot enough it will melt the flux and rod. If the rod sticks, the metal is not hot enough.

[jordanator62]

Originally Posted by Trac95ker

Take a piece of mild steel rod from the hardware store and drill into the ends. Around an inch is good. Cut your shafts in half and drop them in the holes. Braze the ends in. All you need is a propane torch and a brazing rod from the hardware store.

Its that simple. I've done this to both drive shafts and I made a short axle from two broken axles on my TF. It works very well. You'll snap the shaft before the braze lets go. When the metal glows orange the brazing rod will melt and fill the gap between the metal parts.

thanks i think i will do that, question though, i just have a small propane torch (kind that connects straight from the bottle), so what kind of brazing rod and flux (i love that stuff) should i get???

thanks
jordan

[Trac95ker]

You have the right gas. If you feel that the propane takes to long to heat up, use mapp gas (yellow bottle). Thats what I use. Buy brazing rods that have flux on them. They are coated and white.

I forgot to mention sanding or grinding the finish off the dogbones. I don't know if you have to. I just did it anyway.

[clodossal]

Nice job, good luck with the axles.

By the way, you just given me an idea. Thanks.

[GRINDER]

Well on my 4 inch widened clod I used a lathe and bored the center after cutting them in half. I then silver soldered a stainless rod into them. They should hold not problem. I also used this procedure for making the driveshafts on Half-pint and after many runs and a comp. they have not broken.

[Trac95ker]

That sounds like a cool idea. The cool thing about dogbones is that they will work fine if they arent perfectly straight.

[jordanator62]

alright, thanks for all the info tracker, i havent started cutting the dogbones yet because of school, but im off for the rest of the week, and im probably going to go get some more propane/mapp tonight so i can finish them tomorrow. this is going to be so sweet when im done.

by the way, im using these axles on a scale mud bogger im making. of course this mud bogger will be capable of conquering the rocks (lol), but its going to be mainly built for scaleness and mud boggerness.

jordan