Losi Pro shock fluid question. Please input.

[mmatthews]

Changed the fluid on my Losi Mini Pro shocks today. After putting them back together they leak. I'm not sure how much fluid do you put in these when you refill them. I tightened the caps well but they all seem to leak. I'm sure they are overfilled but I don't know how much to put in them. Please give me your input. Thanks.

[2500hdon37s]

I always fill my shocks up just below the top of the shock body (with out cap). and use green slime and dont have leaks on any shocks, if you use the Ascociated green slime.

[mmatthews]

Originally Posted by 2500hdon37s

I always fill my shocks up just below the top of the shock body (with out cap). and use green slime and dont have leaks on any shocks, if you use the Ascociated green slime.

Green slime? As the fluid or as a thread coating for the cap?

[2500hdon37s]

Originally Posted by mmatthewslosiminipro

Green slime? As the fluid or as a thread coating for the cap?

the thread/ O-ring coating.

[mmatthews]

Originally Posted by 2500hdon37s

the thread/ O-ring coating.

Thanks for the input. I'll give that a try. I did the same as you and filled just below top. I was affraid maybe it was to much, but I'll try something on the thread (super glue), just kidding. My Traxxas Slash shock have a nice rubber bladder, I wish these were the same way.

[Slaughter]

There is a bladder in the cap. Some will leak out when you put the cap on, which is good since you don't want air in there.

Originally Posted by mmatthewslosiminipro

Thanks for the input. I'll give that a try. I did the same as you and filled just below top. I was affraid maybe it was to much, but I'll try something on the thread (super glue), just kidding. My Traxxas Slash shock have a nice rubber bladder, I wish these were the same way.

[Gfresh]

Be careful with the very thin seal on the shock cartridge (i.e. the bottome of the threaded barrel area which uses a thin clear plastic seal, it either tears or bunches up if tightened too much)
I ditch the seal here and smear the threads of the plastic shock cartridge with sealant ( automotiv RTV sealant s great here).
- Mine always leaked from here (this would show as a leak from the bottom of the alloy body when in use)Now sealed perfect for about 18months!

They can be great shocks if carefully built - I built mine up with 45w oil about 18months ago, been sweet since!

I tried them upside down (wieght lower and less chance of leaks) but didnt like it - I have a tiny amount of air in them, and being upsdie down allow th air to be at the top - so no damping at normal ride height.

Also - if you have not already tried : use losi Mini T springs (fronts) pink being the softest and makes the min beuthifully soft and supple.

[mmatthews]

Originally Posted by Gfresh

Be careful with the very thin seal on the shock cartridge (i.e. the bottome of the threaded barrel area which uses a thin clear plastic seal, it either tears or bunches up if tightened too much)
I ditch the seal here and smear the threads of the plastic shock cartridge with sealant ( automotiv RTV sealant s great here).
- Mine always leaked from here (this would show as a leak from the bottom of the alloy body when in use)Now sealed perfect for about 18months!

They can be great shocks if carefully built - I built mine up with 45w oil about 18months ago, been sweet since!

I tried them upside down (wieght lower and less chance of leaks) but didnt like it - I have a tiny amount of air in them, and being upsdie down allow th air to be at the top - so no damping at normal ride height.

Also - if you have not already tried : use losi Mini T springs (fronts) pink being the softest and makes the min beuthifully soft and supple.

Where were you ealier my friend. I crushed all four seals. Spent the day running around trying to replace them with no luck. RVT? RVT sounds like a good idea. I'll give that a try. Thanks for the information.

[mmatthews]

I've applied RVT. Going to let the sit for a while. Lets hope for no leaks.

[MRCCRAWLER1.9]

Seems like you may need to replace your o-rings since they seem like they are good for trash right about now, even with grease.

[mmatthews]

Originally Posted by MRCCRAWLER1.9

Seems like you may need to replace your o-rings since they seem like they are good for trash right about now, even with grease.

Don't know where to get the o-rings. Looked all over today.

[Slaughter]

Not positive but LOSB2903 might be the rebuild kit for them.

[mmatthews]

Originally Posted by Slaughter

Not positive but LOSB2903 might be the rebuild kit for them.

LOSB1113 two bodies with six seals

[alexchen86]

This thread is very useful. I am in the process of rebuilding all 4 shocks on my MRC Pro. There is leaking but not excessive.

I always hand tighten the bottom shock cartridge with a microfiber towel on the plastic end to get a grip and twist the aluminum shock body. This time I applied the black RTV (after cleaning) around the shock cartridges and twisted them tight...going to allow them to cure 24 hours.

My question is do I need to apply RTV to the top rubber bladder as well? I think you want the bladder to bleed out any excess air right?

[MRCCRAWLER1.9]

Originally Posted by alexchen86

My question is do I need to apply RTV to the top rubber bladder as well? I think you want the bladder to bleed out any excess air right?

I applied RTV to mine.. Yes, you do want them to bleed out air bubbles.. But this method goes many different ways depending on how you build your shocks. with my minis, i put the oil in them, let them sit over night to let all the air bubbles to get out. Then when i do put the cap back on, i lean the shock at an angle with the shaft in 1/3 the way in. This will allow excess oil to bleed out, but once closed, have enough oil to be usable.

[alexchen86]

Originally Posted by MRCCRAWLER1.9

I applied RTV to mine.. Yes, you do want them to bleed out air bubbles.. But this method goes many different ways depending on how you build your shocks. with my minis, i put the oil in them, let them sit over night to let all the air bubbles to get out. Then when i do put the cap back on, i lean the shock at an angle with the shaft in 1/3 the way in. This will allow excess oil to bleed out, but once closed, have enough oil to be usable.

I'm a bit confused on the steps since RTV requires 24 hours to cure. I don't want the oil and RTV to be mixed together in the shock body.

Do you take the rubber bladder off the cap and put a thin layer around it and put it back in while the RTV is still wet?

Or can I just put a small bead of RTV around the threads in the cap...let it cure then screw it on?
This is of course after filling the bodies with oil.

[Gfresh]

Originally Posted by alexchen86

I'm a bit confused on the steps since RTV requires 24 hours to cure. I don't want the oil and RTV to be mixed together in the shock body.

Do you take the rubber bladder off the cap and put a thin layer around it and put it back in while the RTV is still wet?

Or can I just put a small bead of RTV around the threads in the cap...let it cure then screw it on?
This is of course after filling the bodies with oil.

You got it, a smear around the threads will prevent any leaks from the cap/threads or cartridge/threads. Make sure theres no air in (i.e. you dont want the shock to be "springy" when compressed or it may force oil out when compressed due to the pressure of the compressed air).

[KabukiCrawler]

For all my shock rebuilds, I like to leave the cap loose and then push the piston to the top and let the excess oil leak out. I then tighten up the cap. I've never had problems with leaks. And if you're talking about a leak at the shaft, then the problem may be a torn o-ring from not greasing up the threaded end of the shock shaft with one of those greases used for that purpose before sliding it through the o-rings. I'm using Associated's green slime. After that, I don't know. I'm waiting for my shock cartridges to come in for my first rebuild. If it didn't come as a cartridge unit, I would then say you need to replace the o-rings, if it's at that end. You don't say which end...

[mmatthews]

I had to replace the caps. Unable to replace just the o-ring. All the shocks but one held with no leaks. Trying to fix the leaking shock but I now have a stripped screw. I have only one compliant with the Losi Pro and that is the decision to use a 1.3 hex head allen screw.

[alexchen86]

RTV worked like a charm! Bought a big old tube for $5...basically took off all the cartridges cleaned out all the silicone oil with motor spray including the bodies as well.

With a cleaned surface I applied the RTV around the threads then put them back in slowly to make sure they were aligned properly. Then wiped the excess off. Let it cure over night.

Refilled the shocks with 40wt let all the air bubbles go up after pushing the rod 1/3 way in. Then just screwed in the top cap. A little silicone oil oozed out like the way it should be. Cleaned that off with motor spray as well.

So far no leaks!

I didn't want to use RTV on the top bladder as this will seal them up top if I ever want to change viscosities or rebuild them again.