Driveshaft Suggestion

[UNIDEKE]

I just bought a Axial SCX10 G6 Falken Edition; love the thing! Btw, I'm a total rookie really...anyway, the front drive shaft broke or the screw (AXA0286) holding the shaft shell (AX31114) came out, and I was unable to find the pieces. I needed some hardware, so I bought a G6 Stainless Steel Screw set (axi00. Hopefully this will help keep me running. As far as the drive shafts go, should I be upgrading them or stick with the factory specs? Also, what other things should I pick up to limit down time? Don't really have a hobby store near by so, I'm stuck ordering online.

The picture below is the drive shaft, the screw I am refering to is not visible and resides inside the shaft- it screws in to the ball.

[crockins]

From all accounts I've heard, those drive shafts are very strong. Especially if you are sticking with the stock motor you should have no problems with those for a long time. When you replace the screw just be sure to put a little blue loctite on it and you should be good to go. There are a lot of relatively small upgrades that you'll probably want to do before long. Some of the first for most people are metal steering and suspension links. The plastic ones are pretty flexible which gets annoying. But really most of those things can wait for a little while if you want, again, especially if you are sticking with stock electronics. The only thing I'd say is an absolute must have is an aluminum servo horn. Even with the stock servo, the plastic servo horn will strip out probably sooner rather than later. If you get aluminum links that servo horn won't last more than a few minutes at best. Mine stripped out the first time I turned the wheel with the truck sitting on the ground! That was with aluminum links and a servo that is only slightly higher torque than stock.

[new2rocks]

Welcome to RCC. I have a G6 kit that I've been running a lot for the past 5 months or so. The list of preventative upgrades can be almost as long as you want to make it, so a lot will depend on how you plan to use it and your budget. Apart from the plastic servo horn (go aluminum as crockins suggested), other potential failures include c-hubs/knuckles and lockouts (lots of good choices out there from Axial, STRC, RC4WD, Vanquish, etc), steering and suspension links (I recommend titanium from Vanquish or Blue Monkey, though aluminum from Axial is okay), plastic tranny gears (I recommend Robinson Racing), and stock lockers (several good options out there), and a hardened steel spur/slipper combo. Knowing that I would be running brushless in 3s, I went with upgrades on all of these except for the lockers out of the box, and the only mechanical failure I've had on the trail was the lockers.

A lot of this will depend on how you use it (I don't baby mine), whether you decide to go 3s or upgrade your motor, and your budget. If you don't want to spend a lot now, I'd suggest staying with the stock motor and 2s for now and getting an Amazon Prime membership as the best way to limit down time for now. They have a surprising selection of spares/upgrades available (not quite RPP, but pretty good), and free 2-day shipping in the CONUS on most orders without a hefty minimum. Good luck!

[yotapower07]

A high torque servo (over 300oz/in) and more steering angle. Check out the xr10 steering mod. Warpig has a great write up on how to do it. Doing that will get you a very solid front end. I run a roc412 3100kv on 3s and I drive it like I stole it. At the end of the day though it all depends on how much money you want to throw at it.

[Wade]

Welcome,

As others have stated, stick with the stock driveshafts, but if they start breaking, you can't go wrong with the MiP driveshafts.

Cheers,
Wade

[UNIDEKE]

Thanks for the suggestions! I am interested in upgrading items to make my rig better. I am, for now, sticking with stick drive shafts. I think it wast a fluke that the shaft/sleeve/screw fell out. I actually found them (after I had it fixed), so all is good.