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Old 10-13-2011, 02:34 PM   #1
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Default What?!

WHAT?! i'm late to the party. Top Speed Challenge cancelled last year. This scx10 based sucker would have been perfect.

WHAT?! started out as my FOFF. It was scx based, and fun when it wasn't on it's lid. i haven;'t had alot of time to run it lately, so I decided it was time to make something I could run on the street & look bad ass while doing it.



I hadtried lowering the stock scx frame but I found that it had no suspension travl left. That, coupled with the fact that it was so light (maybe 4.75lbs) resulted in more time airborne and on it's lid, that actual tire time. that had to be fixed.

She now rides on a hand cut WalMart Special double decker. It has a whopping 1/4" of suspension travel, and covers alot of ground, FAST. She feels alot heavier, but the added mass seems to have helped make it stable at speed. The link setup does cause axle steer, but i'll live with it. I have some video to upload, but it looks slow on film. Sad, cause this thing is a blast.

Need to figure out how to gpd this thing for it's speed. anyone know a cheap ass way to do that?

I need a little more shock travel, and I need to vent the body, but she's pretty much done for now.

- Losi 2.4 radio
- Mamba Max Pro
- Scorpion HK-2210-8 outrunner
- Hyperion 40c 850mah 3s
- HR metal geared, slippered Axial trans w/ CDW Chromo outputs & EEM motor plate
- Maxx Shafts
- WK r&p
- 72/28 gearing
- Fuzzy servo
- 2.2 Switch tires on Epics
- ProLine Desert Rat SC body


















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Old 10-13-2011, 08:00 PM   #2
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Default Donuts.

Sadly, this thing looks slow on camera. the smooth, dusty concrete provides no traction and you can't get on past half throttle without the tires breaking loose and sending the truck in some random dircetion.

I have no idea how fast it goes, but it's plenty fast in person.

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Old 10-13-2011, 08:20 PM   #3
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Have you thought of using a 1/8 on road late model? Probably give you the right amount of down force allowing you to go lighter in weight.
Also give the streetfighter m2 a try, they are(I've been told) about higher speed like 65mph+ if glued or beadlocks properly and are super sticky in the road, plus they don't balloon as much

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Old 10-13-2011, 08:33 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by demonoid369 View Post
Have you thought of using a 1/8 on road late model? Probably give you the right amount of down force allowing you to go lighter in weight.
Also give the streetfighter m2 a try, they are(I've been told) about higher speed like 65mph+ if glued or beadlocks properly and are super sticky in the road, plus they don't balloon as much
Eh, I kinda like the look of this body though. I plan on adding a valance up front and a drag spoiler out back. that combined with some well placed vent holes should work out ok.

i'm looking into the street fighters already. I may have to pull the trigger soon, but I want to sort out the suspnsion first. I finished fabbing two new shock mounting blocks today and just nned to install them. Pairing those with some Revo shocks to help smooth out the ride.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:34 PM   #5
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Default More of WHAT?1



Once I get the suspension a bit closer to where it nees to be, I'll hit some asphalt to see if I can put the hammer down
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:22 AM   #6
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Default How disappointing

Scriptasylum.com speed calculator estimates a paltry 25.77 mph. Feels faster than that, but when you don't have space to let it's legs stretch...


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Old 10-14-2011, 02:36 AM   #7
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that looks cool as hell. you should mount up an IFS to that bad boy!
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:04 AM   #8
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Have you though of using a different tranny? Like a pede or slash? Might help get more speed since the axial one has a good amount of reduction
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:17 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by ohh EPiC FAiL View Post
that looks cool as hell. you should mount up an IFS to that bad boy!
Thanks! But that's too much work! Lol

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Have you though of using a different tranny? Like a pede or slash? Might help get more speed since the axial one has a good amount of reduction
I am thinking about it actually. But running selfOD gears in the axle gain nearly 5mph in it's self. I'm not sure how the slash and pede trans compares to the Axial's 2.6:1 though. Something like 1/8 scale direct drive would be optimal though. Probably something like the ten-scte or mt2 e-convos, but something with a slipper clutch.

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Old 10-14-2011, 03:19 AM   #10
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Thanks! But that's too much work! Lol



I am thinking about it actually. But running selfOD gears in the axle gain nearly 5mph in it's self. I'm not sure how the slash and pede trans compares to the Axial's 2.6:1 though. Something like 1/8 scale direct drive would be optimal though. Probably have to be Mod 1 like the ten-scte, bur something with a slipper clutch.
if you're wanting something that's more direct but still with a slipper, you could use the durango DESC410 center diff, it's got a slipper built in and you can use a center diff or a locker
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:28 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ohh EPiC FAiL View Post
if you're wanting something that's more direct but still with a slipper, you could use the durango DESC410 center diff, it's got a slipper built in and you can use a center diff or a locker

Thanks. Good looking out. I may have to look into that
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:40 AM   #12
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i forgot to mention, they have both mod 1 and 48p spur gears you can use with it also, so if you've got 48p pinions you could use that spur and not have to buy new pinions
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:54 AM   #13
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i forgot to mention, they have both mod 1 and 48p spur gears you can use with it also, so if you've got 48p pinions you could use that spur and not have to buy new pinions
Thanks. I was checking it out on Durango's website. With the way they designed it, it looks like it be an easy install with the exception of the fact that the center diff uses dogbones. I'd either have ti figure out how to run a half dogbone/half uni or perhaps run dogbone cups at the axle end and hope I find a dogbone of the right length
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:17 PM   #14
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Nice project.


I've used the following cups when converting to dogbones on my Stampede 2wd - HPI Racing Cup Joint 5x10x18mm TowerHobbies.com | 72108 HPI Racing Cup Joint 5x10x18mm

I've also done a few solid axle projects that would get to some serious speeds if I didn't crash them trying Direct drive transmission is the way to go to get some speed and that Durango trans is somthing I will have to look at myself being that it has a slipper.

Don't worry about dogbone lengths, there are many dogbones out there. Just search towerhobbies for they give the lengh for most in their discriptions. I've even had good luck typing in "dogbone" or "driveshaft" with the legth needed in milimetes (mm) on Ebay with good fourtune.

Scan through my youtube channel for videos of my solid axle projects -it may help you with some ideas on what to and not to try. vsci79's Channel - YouTube

May you have high speed success
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:28 PM   #15
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Shortcourse drifting, you just made a new segment for RC's.
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by S_C_I_P_I_O79 View Post
Nice project.


I've used the following cups when converting to dogbones on my Stampede 2wd - HPI Racing Cup Joint 5x10x18mm TowerHobbies.com | 72108 HPI Racing Cup Joint 5x10x18mm

I've also done a few solid axle projects that would get to some serious speeds if I didn't crash them trying Direct drive transmission is the way to go to get some speed and that Durango trans is somthing I will have to look at myself being that it has a slipper.

Don't worry about dogbone lengths, there are many dogbones out there. Just search towerhobbies for they give the lengh for most in their discriptions. I've even had good luck typing in "dogbone" or "driveshaft" with the legth needed in milimetes (mm) on Ebay with good fourtune.

Scan through my youtube channel for videos of my solid axle projects -it may help you with some ideas on what to and not to try. vsci79's Channel - YouTube

May you have high speed success
Thanks for the tips. I knew there were bolt on doggone cups but I couldn't remember where I saw them. Also the Rango center diff/trans if definitely something I want to try. I just need to price one out to see if it's feasible. Otherwise I'm thinking a e-conversion motor mount will do the trick. Slipper or not, a good gear diff in the center will still put the power down nicely, but I would probably unlock the axle duffs if that's my course of action.

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Shortcourse drifting, you just made a new segment for RC's.
Haha. Thanks but I can't take credit for that. I'm sure I'm not the first I know I won't be the last. The goal is to be an effective drift/drag truck, and I think I'm off to a good start.
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:23 AM   #17
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Nice build man
I bet the new chassis really does help keep it grounded.
My foff has the same problem... no weight.
I've been thinking of weighting the wheels or moving up to Wraith axles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S_C_I_P_I_O79 View Post
I've also done a few solid axle projects that would get to some serious speeds if I didn't crash them trying

Scan through my youtube channel for videos of my solid axle projects -it may help you with some ideas on what to and not to try. vsci79's Channel - YouTube
Yellow Cake
I stumbled on the first Yellow Cake PTI video years ago and loved it, great work. I was happy to see a part 2 tonight.
It was an insperation for my Bastard Jr, I rememberd that low slung solid axle sand dragster crazy looking rig... and wanted to build one! Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S_C_I_P_I_O79 View Post
Nice project.


I've used the following cups when converting to dogbones on my Stampede 2wd - HPI Racing Cup Joint 5x10x18mm TowerHobbies.com | 72108 HPI Racing Cup Joint 5x10x18mm

I've also done a few solid axle projects that would get to some serious speeds if I didn't crash them trying Direct drive transmission is the way to go to get some speed and that Durango trans is somthing I will have to look at myself being that it has a slipper.

Don't worry about dogbone lengths, there are many dogbones out there. Just search towerhobbies for they give the lengh for most in their discriptions. I've even had good luck typing in "dogbone" or "driveshaft" with the legth needed in milimetes (mm) on Ebay with good fourtune.

Scan through my youtube channel for videos of my solid axle projects -it may help you with some ideas on what to and not to try. vsci79's Channel - YouTube

May you have high speed success
Finally got a chance to check out the channel. Nice looking project. How fast did it go? It look pretty zippy.

I'm definitely going direct drive. Going with a Ten-scte center diff assembly instead of the Rango. Two reasons. 1) the Rango pieces add up to about $100 for the diff and necessary bulkheads (all ala carte) and 2) I found the complete ten-scte assembly on eBay for half that price shipped

Just need to get those dogbone cups, sort out my suspension geometry a bit more, and chop up a New chassis.

May take me a bit, but it'll get there.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:23 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by johnnyh66 View Post
Yellow Cake
I stumbled on the first Yellow Cake PTI video years ago and loved it, great work. I was happy to see a part 2 tonight.
It was an insperation for my Bastard Jr, I rememberd that low slung solid axle sand dragster crazy looking rig... and wanted to build one! Thanks.
That's awesome! Yellow Cake does look mean if I say so myself.
Glad it inspired you, I feel proud

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Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing View Post
Finally got a chance to check out the channel. Nice looking project. How fast did it go? It look pretty zippy.

I'm definitely going direct drive. Going with a Ten-scte center diff assembly instead of the Rango. Two reasons. 1) the Rango pieces add up to about $100 for the diff and necessary bulkheads (all ala carte) and 2) I found the complete ten-scte assembly on eBay for half that price shipped
Thanks, not too sure of the top speed on my latest Project that I call Sidearm (assuming that the one your reffering to) but I did roll it massively into the weeds at about 35 to 40. I did the theoretical speed calculation while building it and believe it came up somewhere around the mid 50s to mid 60s with its current setup. I need to find a better open spot to run it.

Yeah $100 is a lil steep. Your center diff choice should do you well. I've learned that having a center diff is definitely better for high speed solid axles on the road, also big heavy wheels is a no-no. My Project Mamba uses a Kyosho Rock Force direct Drive trans (no diff) and if you see my RC cartwheels video where it has big heavy Maxx size slicks you can see the outcome . In its Foff config with 2.2 sandpaws (like in my electric dune buggy vid), Project Mamba is a blast.

Anyway, keep at it Hope I can learn from your progress.

Last edited by S_C_I_P_I_O79; 10-15-2011 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:54 PM   #20
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Default SWB ten-scte

Small update.

The ten-scte parts showed up in the last couple of weeks.

First was a used ten-scte chassis plate



I kinda of eyeballed the length that i needed an marked it up with some 3/4" tape. Ny plan is to use my existing chassis sections (bulkehead and top plate) and mount it up to this plate.

Here it is after cutting. I used a air powered cutoff wheel to make quick work of it.



Does someone need a SWB ten-scte chassis? Electronics packaging may pose a challenge, but it should turn on a dime.



This is the actual piece I need. The driveshaft won't be centered, but it'll do for now.



My main concern will be finiding apporiately sized dogbones. One will need to be about 3" long and the other about 4" long. the length isn't the concern as much as finding bos that fit in both the Losi dif outdrive and the HPI cup joint.
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