Cut before paint?

[Bray D]

Total newb question. I'm building the Proline Ranger body that has some sizeable cutouts in the lexan to accommodate molded scale pieces (namely headlight buckets and such).

Should I paint before cutting, or cut before painting?

My concern is burning the paint using rotary tools to cut the headlights out of the lexan if I cut after paint. Similarly, I'm worried about FUBARing the overspray mask if I cut before paint.

What is the best practice?

[high plains drifter]

I used to paint a lot of bodies and for various reasons have done it both ways. I don't think messing up the mask is a huge concern as any over-spray can quickly be removed with alcohol wipes or something similar. But when using a rotary-tool ( sanding drum) to finalize the finishing, you often get a rough line of lexan that winds up having to be removed and that's why I sometimes tend to finish/ smooth all the cutouts prior to painting rather than going back in after painting. Because that rough edge eventually needs to be removed ( either with a thumbnail, x-acto, or rotary tool attachment at an angle) you can sometimes mess up either the paint or the edge of the cutout itself. That's why most of the time I try to finish everything before paint.

[Bray D]

Seems logical to me. I'll go ahead and cut everything out before painting.

[OSRC]

I always cut before paint. I painted once before and when cutting out the wheelwells and such I scratched up the paint. Lesson learned!

[Bray D]

Phew, I was hoping that comment was confirmation to cut first. I already cut up the body last night, haha. Thanks guys!

[high plains drifter]

Just make sure that any of the remaining lexan remnants ( I don't even know what to call em... those rough shards?) are completely removed so that they don't wind up contaminating the paint or creating a rough edge. I usually go all around the edges of everything with my thumb and index fingernails to feel for any rough remnants.. also visually inspect all along those edges making sure everything's smooth on both sides. You can always go back in with an xacto blade or fine sandpaper or even a sanding drum if you need to straighten up an edge ( like along the rocker panel or smooth out a curve like a fender-well) after painting and after peeling off the mask but just be really careful.

[Bray D]

I've been trying to keep it clean for sure. I was actually able to scribe the perimeter with a hobby knife, then use a reamer to punch a hole so I could get my scissors in there. The holes for the light buckets are essentially burr free.

I have a Dynamite reamer and I'm less than impressed with the burr it leaves though. Even coming in from the backside to cut the burr off doesn't work so well. It's like the grind is off on the cone so it 'smears' material rather that cutting it (machinist experience coming out here). Perhaps that's just the nature of the beast with all lexan reamers. I've been using flush cut snips and an exacto knife to try to trim up those holes.

[high plains drifter]

Originally Posted by Bray D

I've been trying to keep it clean for sure. I was actually able to scribe the perimeter with a hobby knife, then use a reamer to punch a hole so I could get my scissors in there. The holes for the light buckets are essentially burr free.

I have a Dynamite reamer and I'm less than impressed with the burr it leaves though. Even coming in from the backside to cut the burr off doesn't work so well. It's like the grind is off on the cone so it 'smears' material rather that cutting it (machinist experience coming out here). Perhaps that's just the nature of the beast with all lexan reamers. I've been using flush cut snips and an exacto knife to try to trim up those holes.

That's a shame. I've had a couple good ones and some bad ones. Ironically my Dynamite reamer is one of the best I've ever had... although it's probably 20 yrs old so they may have changed design or material since then. I've got a Duratrax reamer that's completely crap and I've had a couple of other cheap ones that suck too. I know there are good ones out there these days but they're likely not cheap. Might actually be a good thread idea here to see what people are using and what's good/ bad. I could use a new one but have been hesitant to wind up with one that doesn't work.

[Bray D]

It definitely got the job done, I just wish it cut a little easier/cleaner. I actually started with a super cheap reamer that came in a kit with a couple lexan scissors. That reamer was total garbage. Went to my LHS to get a nicer one and this Dynamite is what they had so that's what I got. A modern thread discussing everyone's favorite tools would be good for sure.

[durok]

Originally Posted by Bray D

It definitely got the job done, I just wish it cut a little easier/cleaner. I actually started with a super cheap reamer that came in a kit with a couple lexan scissors. That reamer was total garbage. Went to my LHS to get a nicer one and this Dynamite is what they had so that's what I got. A modern thread discussing everyone's favorite tools would be good for sure.

We do have a subforum for tool discussion...


RCCrawler General Tech - Tools, and Procedures at RCCrawler.com

[chevyjlewis]

Cut first

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

[godwnlo]

i always cut first it is much easier to fix a mess up from cutting before painting then after i would be afraid to scratch paint and have to try fixing it after the fact

[Col_Sanders]

I always cut and drill out body post holes before i paint. I'm too cheap to buy one of those magnet sets that lines them up for you.

[MaX-D]

Cut first, then paint.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk