02-23-2006, 09:52 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan
Posts: 19
| PTI Goliath Sniper
The Avalanche Engineering Sniper has always been one of my favorite crawlers, and i wanted to make a crawler, so it only makes sense to build a mini Sniper. I have already made a crawler using PTI axle before, i liked them, so i will use them again. there are a few things that i had to change from the beginning on them, first servo location. must move. second, the extremely limited motion of the steering knuckles. ez fix, replace the drivelines with Hpi part #A553, Super nitro Rs4 dogbones (6x57mm) stock length dogbones are 6ishX59mm, too long and they bind. (I can give you lots of other little tricks, just ask), another cool thing about the pti is that they use mip center drivelines (or similar) which makes it easy to put on longer drive shafts, i used MIP's rs 4mt center driveline kit to extend my truck. I am using the stock transmition, just regearing it lower. The rest from there i don't know yet. i will keep you posted as i go. enjoy -NewT Last edited by onesmoothtranny; 03-10-2006 at 11:38 PM. Reason: need to add pics |
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02-24-2006, 06:38 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 684
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Dangit! You beat me to it. I have planning on building a sniper for the longest time. Oh well, yours looks good. I am assuming your not done. Should look killer when it is.
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02-24-2006, 10:06 AM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville
Posts: 169
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there are some goliath fans out there.....i posted about my goliath and only got bashed or flammed |
02-24-2006, 10:16 AM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: The Haunted Forest
Posts: 3,586
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That's too bad you got bashed and flamed. The Goliaths are pretty cool, but we've had a couple people complain about the parts fit and finish. I'd love to see one out at a comp against all the TLT's just for fun... Great looking truck so far- nice cage work! |
02-24-2006, 10:30 AM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,107
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Looks good so far. You should do a PTI Tips and Tricks write up too!
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02-24-2006, 12:04 PM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 2,048
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Looks like a good start. It is nice to see a few more PTIs on here. I'm bound and determined to find CVDs that I won't have to cut to get a 12-12.5" wheelbase. What's your's at?
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02-24-2006, 12:17 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: The Great White North
Posts: 465
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If you guys like the PTI axles, instead of using the dogbones, you can use the traxxas sliders and pede tranny even easier than you can with TLT axles... lookie here... http://www.one18th.com/forums/showth...hlight=sliders |
02-25-2006, 01:25 AM | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan
Posts: 19
| simplicity is key
when they designed the mini goliath they used a lot of "off the shelf" parts. just look closely at the kit you will see what i mean. So far my wheelbase is just under 11 inches, but that is whats cool, it will look "real" for the size of frame i built. p.s. tlt's are cool and all, but i'm out there to show them that there other ways to get up the same pile of rocks. p.p.s. i am trying to figure out a drive system that allows front wheel drive, 4 wheel drive, rear wheel drive on the fly shifting. i have a couple solid works drawings and i am wondering if it would be worth persuing further. side note: bashing and flaming is a cheap way to say "i'm jealous" and "why didn't i think of that" |
02-25-2006, 10:42 AM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville
Posts: 169
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so are you going to use a kind of lock out hubs or some kind of transfer case? oh i didn't let the bashing get to me, my goliath crawler is pretty sweet in fact i've order some of these to put in the axles in place of the ball diffs because despite how good i had them locked the outdrive cups just broke but this is a great hop up....not sure if it will be a direct drop in but i know that the goliath axles barrows parts from the TC3 so ill let you know how they fit |
02-25-2006, 10:47 AM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 684
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It annoys me when poeple bash what truck you have just because it isn't a tlt. I say build what you want. ar you going to narrow the tires, or leave them as the are?
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02-25-2006, 03:56 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan
Posts: 19
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"these" spools you are trying will drop in. i have them allready. agreed, who cares what you are driving as long as you modify it. tire width will probably stay for know, i am going to glue up a set of moabs for to compete on. |
02-25-2006, 04:03 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: logan
Posts: 221
| Bring it on baby!! Old Sleepy jeep just woke up and is ready to spit rocks on your "sniper". Just kidden around, I likes what I saw in the shop today. Keep it up and lets see that thing go. |
02-25-2006, 05:07 PM | #13 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville
Posts: 169
| Quote:
oh sweet so they are a direct fit....how are they working out for you? oh and do you have the alum or steel? i just found the steel set to late i already oredrd but i wonder if it will make that big of a difference | |
02-25-2006, 07:42 PM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 109
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I would love to get some tips from you. As I'm in the process of building and moding a goliath. I'm also trying to find 90mm dog bones for it. Thanks |
02-26-2006, 08:59 AM | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan
Posts: 19
| axle updates
Here is What I have done with the axles so far. The front one is done other than lower inks (my roommate is sleeping=can't use dremel tool) changing the dog bones to hpi part#A553 is the best thing you can do for the steering. it eliminates the really annoying steering click, as well as allows a significant improvement in steering angles. Moving the steering servo is extremely easy. Just bolt the servo mount to the front of the instead of on top. I just used threadable aluminum rod available through K&S Engineering. The ends are tapped for 3mm. Threads are done my using long 3mm bolts and cutting the heads of so you are left with only the threaded part. I have used the steel spools, i don't know how the aluminum ones will hold up. The part # for the steel spools is Associated # 1703 90mm links are available from any Hpi dealer. Hpi part #HPIC8015 (Through greatplanes) or Mip, 80815 MIP Shiny CVD Rear RS4 MT. all you need is the drivline. they will bolt directly up to the existing input yoke (Almost all Associated cvd's are MIP). And Crawldaddy, your day will come. quick and with no remorse. |
02-26-2006, 09:42 AM | #16 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville
Posts: 169
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02-26-2006, 11:50 AM | #17 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,129
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Ummm... is it just me or did anyone notice how the CVD- traxxas conversion would not allow any up and down movement from the driveshafts? Or does the pin slide as well, allowing for the driveshaft to angle?
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02-26-2006, 03:01 PM | #18 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville
Posts: 169
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the barrel that the pin is in rotates within the CV stub
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02-27-2006, 11:09 PM | #19 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan
Posts: 19
| Progress!!! Last edited by onesmoothtranny; 02-27-2006 at 11:14 PM. |
02-27-2006, 11:46 PM | #20 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Murrieta
Posts: 806
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you stole my idea I was about to start my sniper. Those goliath axels look sweet I was origionally going to use tlts but where can i find the goliaths |
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