wider stance from a spacer up front??

[53 willys]

since modding my steering/XVD's and getting TONS more I want to be able to use it...so I'm looking for a way to widen the front end without buying new wheels...?
I searched around the forum and online to try and find what I need...but I cant find any except TCS has some 1/2" spacers witch I think are to wide...(and out of stock)

any help would be great!

thanks

[53 willys]

this is the only one I can see/find...any smaller versions?

http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php...4b7896071d132b

[rmdesignworks]

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...products_id=91

these are the ones listed at the bottom of the Bully axle page on RC4WD

[53 willys]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...products_id=91

these are the ones listed at the bottom of the Bully axle page on RC4WD

those are even WIDER then the ones I listed...:-(

[Mr Glassman]

I run a thick washer between wheel and hex it's not much but every bit counts Depending on how deep your hex hole is sometimes you can fit 2.

[slowngreen]

Originally Posted by Mr Glassman

I run a thick washer between wheel and hex it's not much but every bit counts Depending on how deep your hex hole is sometimes you can fit 2.

What wheels you running? apperently you still have plenty of room for the hex to grab in there?

[Mr Glassman]

Originally Posted by slowngreen

What wheels you running? apperently you still have plenty of room for the hex to grab in there?

I was running DNA assasins (I also run washers on my MRC you'd be suprised how little the hex needs to grab a hold of and still doesn't slip). I've since switched to Vanquish SLW's with wider adapters best move I've done!

[slowngreen]

Something I was thinking is if you had an extra set of hex's, you could stack two together, drill and tap them in one or two spots for like 3mm or even smaller and then just grind of any excess screw head that sticks out off the side...

[53 willys]

Originally Posted by slowngreen

Something I was thinking is if you had an extra set of hex's, you could stack two together, drill and tap them in one or two spots for like 3mm or even smaller and then just grind of any excess screw head that sticks out off the side...

Dude that's a great idea!! If I want narrow I could even grind a 12mm bolt head off and use that!!
I like this idea more then buying $25 spacers or
new wheels!!
Thanks!

[53 willys]

Originally Posted by slowngreen

Something I was thinking is if you had an extra set of hex's, you could stack two together, drill and tap them in one or two spots for like 3mm or even smaller and then just grind of any excess screw head that sticks out off the side...

tried this tonight....there just is not enough meat on the V4 hex to allow drill and tapping:?

guess I'm gonna need to come up with something else???

[Diamond D]

I was also going to try and widen up my stance mostly for the steering. I was thinking about buying some 12mm hex stock and just making my own along with making some barrel nuts. You should be able to go about .060 or maybe a little bit more on each side thicker without using a barrel nut and still be able to grab the nylock nut. I know its not much but every little bit helps.

[moes670]

Ok forgot all about these hexes but will give them a shot in the morning. The stock Rock force hexes are pretty wide. Problem is they are plastic but again never had one fail so..... They use a larger diameter pin that is longer as well. Not a bad thing though. They should give another 1/8-3/16" per side. Anything will help though. Any more than that and I am going to run out of threads...

If the weather is good enough and you want to come out we can try them on your rig as well dave....Not sure you will be able to live with shafty parts on your ride though

Will update tommorow hopefully with pics

[Culetto]

if you have no problem drilling andf cutting the slot just order up some 12mm hexagonal aluminum stock from mcmaster or another place and cut them yourself. rc4wd sells different lengths of barrel nuts so you have a bit of tuneability there.

[slowngreen]

Originally Posted by Culetto

if you have no problem drilling andf cutting the slot just order up some 12mm hexagonal aluminum stock from mcmaster or another place and cut them yourself. rc4wd sells different lengths of barrel nuts so you have a bit of tuneability there.

I was thinking about that too but Im sure I couldnt get them drilled perfectly in the center....

[moes670]

Ok adding the Rock Force hexes will only get you about an 1/8 wider per side. You could put some washers in the bottom of the hex too I guess. The RC4WD wheels have a relief cut at the bottom so there is no hex there anyway you wouldn't be loosing much hex engagment. Any more than that and you will need to go to a barrel nut. Just not enough lenght in the stub axle.










Took some before and after pictures but hard to see any change The wheels are the stock RC4WD's that came with the ARTR kit 1.25 wide 1.50 with rings. Tires are Chisels with stock foams.











Also here is the difference in the pins so you would have to drill out your stubs. Maybe just going to a longer pin would work for testing.








Much better steering than before!!! Wish a had a before pic:-(










Also took some pics with some naked wheels to give you an idea of the change. Measuring outside of tire to tire is just not going to show the true change.







There you go.

[slowngreen]

Very nice, thanks for the heads up!

[wingnutcrawler]

the mip cvds for a tlt used to have a 1/4" long hex. if you have enough threads you could give that a try. rcp was selling them seperatley awhile back.

[Culetto]

Originally Posted by slowngreen

I was thinking about that too but Im sure I couldnt get them drilled perfectly in the center....

If you have a drill press its pretty straightforward. Even with a hand drill you should be able to do it with a punch and a sharp bit. Just do the first hole with a bit smaller than your final by at least 2mm, then when you do your final hole you have a second shot to make sure you are perfectly straight through the middle.

[slowngreen]

Originally Posted by Culetto

If you have a drill press its pretty straightforward. Even with a hand drill you should be able to do it with a punch and a sharp bit. Just do the first hole with a bit smaller than your final by at least 2mm, then when you do your final hole you have a second shot to make sure you are perfectly straight through the middle.

Yeah, Im gonna give it a try. I can go out a fair amount too, I have plenty of thread right now with my BWD Ulocks.

[53 willys]

those plastic ones look perfect!!!! just wish they were not plastic:?
thanks for the great pics and description moes670