RCCrawler Forums

greaser · 02-06-2010, 10:27 AM

where is everyone running there shocks? i moved mine from stock to about a half inch from the front end of the links and the botom forward hole in the chasis. it is better than stock im just wondering if anyone else is playing with the placement and what you have found.

Santa Cruz Jeff · 02-06-2010, 10:52 AM

Run them upside down to lower thc cog.also move them all the way forward to lower the car.I have mine that way and it works well.Also put Heavy oil I use 120 weight.Also shock limiters will make a huge difference.I cut the plastic sleave of a pen and put it in the shock under the valve to limit the travel.too much articulation is no good.Mine has very little in the rear and about half of stock in the front and it crawls crazy stuff.

BADASSPONY · 02-06-2010, 11:28 AM

Heres my setup, Im still waiting for my new chassis to get everything dialed in, Im also going to be installing internal spring that will be setup in half droop half sprung.

Mr. Make it Work · 02-06-2010, 08:44 PM

i had set the uppers further from center on the first cross brace and it raised the truck 1/2" then i slid the lowers away from center to re lower to 3-1/4" ground clearance. i found that doing this had limited the flex to about 80 ish degrees that helped alot with not fliping over or getting a wheel wedged under rocks. when i slid the lowers all the way i ended up with 2-3/4" clearance and limited flex even more so.

i have only tried the stock height so far. worked much better with shocks further out, less binding. as stated above the 2-3/4" would be the way to go un smoother terrain. i have a home made broken brick course and jaged terrain.

being a total noob, i will post pics when i figure out how.

so far so good. limiting your RS-10 seems to work better!

Mr. Make it Work · 02-07-2010, 01:02 AM

upper mounting location

new flex angle

good ol soda can shot

the final with "new" "old" body

hope you like the tip, oh and if you havent tried the bic pen on steering linkage... do it !!

PrivateerConcepts · 02-07-2010, 08:13 AM

Believe it or not... the stock shocks are pretty sensitive to change. I've spent way too many hours trying to nail down a formula. If you look at the video I did (don't laugh at my test course) you'll see a couple 45 Degree mesh ramps that I use. (Videos of the RS10 in action) With the stock suspension, I noticed a slightly nose high set-up gave me the least wheel spin. Even with my new shocks I am running (not seen in video) the same way. Rear upper mount (shock) in the top holes, more forward - Front uppers lower row and forward of the rear positioning. I am finding the RS10 gets better bite with a slightly lower stance and some type of travel limiter is good up front to keep the twist fro going too far (forgive me RC Gods for saying such a thing). Exact Numbers seem to be subject to change with tire mods (working the foams and treads as well as different tires) and temperature. Biggest thing - messing with the back effects the front handling most (and opposite front to back). Basically opposite of what you'd want to think. But, a crawler is looking for traction... not shock absorption like a stadium style truck.

jsowens · 02-07-2010, 08:20 AM

I'm running 4'' aluminum shock bodies with white losi springs and 50wt oil all around on a custom chassis. The shocks are mounted to the axle housings at roughly a 50 degree angle and it seems to be a really good setup (haven't got to test outside due to almost a foot of snow on the ground). I have about a soda can of flex and my shocks move somewhat slow, which I like. Previously I was running full droop with medium springs and 100wt oil and that setup worked well also, I just didn't have the flex I wanted.

greaser · 02-07-2010, 11:53 AM

thanks for all the options guys i think im going to move the rears a bit i think it will help as privater said. the front i think i like where they are but i am sure it will change when i move the rears lol.

jsowens · 02-07-2010, 12:29 PM

Another thing you might wanna consider is messing around with shock oil setups. It kinda sucks disassembling the shocks everytime you want to change the setup, but changing the oil does make a difference. Shock oil is cheap enough to pick up a couple of bottles in different weights and experiment with it.

Mr. Make it Work · 02-07-2010, 11:46 PM

i picked up some 60wt today and pulled an old associated rc-10 out blew the dust off and robbed the shocks off it. i now have vavious sets to work with.

ill probably go back to the O.G. upper mounting point and experiment with 3.5" and 4" i have a few on other rigs so ill keep posting with pics and set ups.

jsowens - could you elaborate on the internal droop set up and a 1/2 and 1/2 style?

also thanx for the pics "how to" helped alot. you have my respect for your involvement on this site.

BADASSPONY · 02-08-2010, 05:31 AM

The internal spring eliminate the externals, depending on how you set it up you can have it one of 3 ways.

1. Sprung, which the spring would be sitting on top of the piston
2. Droop, which the spring would be installed under the piston
3. Half droop, half sprung, which you would have springs on both above and below the piston. Most people will use different weight spring to get the perfat setup or use a shorter spring under or on top.

The way you run your setup is all about your driving and liking, everyone prefers different setups and its a matter of find that sweet spot that works with your rig and your driving. Internal spring can be found at TCS, they do work in the stock RS10 shocks. Heres a link.

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/search.ph...=search&page=1

jsowens · 02-08-2010, 08:09 AM

BADASSPONY nailed it with that explanation. The hardest thing about suspension in general is getting it setup in the best way that works for the terrain you crawl on. So ideally my setup might not work as well for someone else. When I ran droop, I changed spring configurations a few times and ultimately settled on medium springs and 100wt oil and that worked well for me, but it prevented me from doing certain lines that I could do previously with a sprung setup. I suggest doing a search on droop and read some of the posts about it. Simply messing around and experimenting with your suspension is how you'll be able to find the ideal setup for you.

Mr. Make it Work, thanks for the props...glad I could help.

02-06-2010, 10:27 AM	#1
greaser Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: moose lake Posts: 62	shock mounting where is everyone running there shocks? i moved mine from stock to about a half inch from the front end of the links and the botom forward hole in the chasis. it is better than stock im just wondering if anyone else is playing with the placement and what you have found.

02-08-2010, 05:31 AM	#11
BADASSPONY Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Huntertown, In Posts: 776	The internal spring eliminate the externals, depending on how you set it up you can have it one of 3 ways. 1. Sprung, which the spring would be sitting on top of the piston 2. Droop, which the spring would be installed under the piston 3. Half droop, half sprung, which you would have springs on both above and below the piston. Most people will use different weight spring to get the perfat setup or use a shorter spring under or on top. The way you run your setup is all about your driving and liking, everyone prefers different setups and its a matter of find that sweet spot that works with your rig and your driving. Internal spring can be found at TCS, they do work in the stock RS10 shocks. Heres a link. http://www.tcscrawlers.com/search.ph...=search&page=1 Last edited by BADASSPONY; 02-08-2010 at 05:41 AM.

02-06-2010, 10:52 AM	#2
Santa Cruz Jeff Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Santa Cruz Posts: 244	Run them upside down to lower thc cog.also move them all the way forward to lower the car.I have mine that way and it works well.Also put Heavy oil I use 120 weight.Also shock limiters will make a huge difference.I cut the plastic sleave of a pen and put it in the shock under the valve to limit the travel.too much articulation is no good.Mine has very little in the rear and about half of stock in the front and it crawls crazy stuff.

02-06-2010, 11:28 AM	#3
BADASSPONY Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Huntertown, In Posts: 776	Heres my setup, Im still waiting for my new chassis to get everything dialed in, Im also going to be installing internal spring that will be setup in half droop half sprung.

02-06-2010, 08:44 PM	#4
Mr. Make it Work Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Monterey Bay Posts: 60	i had set the uppers further from center on the first cross brace and it raised the truck 1/2" then i slid the lowers away from center to re lower to 3-1/4" ground clearance. i found that doing this had limited the flex to about 80 ish degrees that helped alot with not fliping over or getting a wheel wedged under rocks. when i slid the lowers all the way i ended up with 2-3/4" clearance and limited flex even more so. i have only tried the stock height so far. worked much better with shocks further out, less binding. as stated above the 2-3/4" would be the way to go un smoother terrain. i have a home made broken brick course and jaged terrain. being a total noob, i will post pics when i figure out how. so far so good. limiting your RS-10 seems to work better!

02-07-2010, 01:02 AM	#5
Mr. Make it Work Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Monterey Bay Posts: 60	upper mounting location new flex angle good ol soda can shot the final with "new" "old" body hope you like the tip, oh and if you havent tried the bic pen on steering linkage... do it !!

02-07-2010, 08:13 AM	#6
PrivateerConcepts Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Killingworth Posts: 58	Believe it or not... the stock shocks are pretty sensitive to change. I've spent way too many hours trying to nail down a formula. If you look at the video I did (don't laugh at my test course) you'll see a couple 45 Degree mesh ramps that I use. (Videos of the RS10 in action) With the stock suspension, I noticed a slightly nose high set-up gave me the least wheel spin. Even with my new shocks I am running (not seen in video) the same way. Rear upper mount (shock) in the top holes, more forward - Front uppers lower row and forward of the rear positioning. I am finding the RS10 gets better bite with a slightly lower stance and some type of travel limiter is good up front to keep the twist fro going too far (forgive me RC Gods for saying such a thing). Exact Numbers seem to be subject to change with tire mods (working the foams and treads as well as different tires) and temperature. Biggest thing - messing with the back effects the front handling most (and opposite front to back). Basically opposite of what you'd want to think. But, a crawler is looking for traction... not shock absorption like a stadium style truck.

02-07-2010, 08:20 AM	#7
jsowens RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,882	I'm running 4'' aluminum shock bodies with white losi springs and 50wt oil all around on a custom chassis. The shocks are mounted to the axle housings at roughly a 50 degree angle and it seems to be a really good setup (haven't got to test outside due to almost a foot of snow on the ground). I have about a soda can of flex and my shocks move somewhat slow, which I like. Previously I was running full droop with medium springs and 100wt oil and that setup worked well also, I just didn't have the flex I wanted.

02-07-2010, 11:53 AM	#8
greaser Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: moose lake Posts: 62	thanks for all the options guys i think im going to move the rears a bit i think it will help as privater said. the front i think i like where they are but i am sure it will change when i move the rears lol.

02-07-2010, 12:29 PM	#9
jsowens RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,882	Another thing you might wanna consider is messing around with shock oil setups. It kinda sucks disassembling the shocks everytime you want to change the setup, but changing the oil does make a difference. Shock oil is cheap enough to pick up a couple of bottles in different weights and experiment with it.

02-07-2010, 11:46 PM	#10
Mr. Make it Work Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Monterey Bay Posts: 60	i picked up some 60wt today and pulled an old associated rc-10 out blew the dust off and robbed the shocks off it. i now have vavious sets to work with. ill probably go back to the O.G. upper mounting point and experiment with 3.5" and 4" i have a few on other rigs so ill keep posting with pics and set ups. jsowens - could you elaborate on the internal droop set up and a 1/2 and 1/2 style? also thanx for the pics "how to" helped alot. you have my respect for your involvement on this site.

02-08-2010, 08:09 AM	#12
jsowens RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,882	BADASSPONY nailed it with that explanation. The hardest thing about suspension in general is getting it setup in the best way that works for the terrain you crawl on. So ideally my setup might not work as well for someone else. When I ran droop, I changed spring configurations a few times and ultimately settled on medium springs and 100wt oil and that worked well for me, but it prevented me from doing certain lines that I could do previously with a sprung setup. I suggest doing a search on droop and read some of the posts about it. Simply messing around and experimenting with your suspension is how you'll be able to find the ideal setup for you. Mr. Make it Work, thanks for the props...glad I could help.

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