Tire/rim size?
 

Okay, first of all, yes I used the search function and couldn't find a definite answer. I waded through the cheap tricks and many other threads and think the tire and rim size is 2.2 for the RS10. Never saw the number, but deduced the size by looking at tire size links and crossover Axial parts too. Am I right? From what I've read, the stocker tires aren't even worth putting to dirt and I want new meats before I even receive my Crawler. Can anyone confirm this? I'm very fond of BWD wheels too and would like to drop the hammer on those as well. It would be a great self Father's Day gift to myself! Thanks guys!

you are correct , they are 2.2 you can use the rs10 wheels just get better tires.

Thank you crawlhog! Are the stocker wheels beadlocks or fakielocks? I'd assume the latter for the buy in price.

there beadlocks, and they work pretty good for plastic wheels. ive used them on several different trucks and never had a problem"thumbsup"

Awesome! Thanks again. I guess they'll just need some weight added then. Wow, alot of bang for the buck with this rig! My Sumo Crawler is nicknamed The Terd :roll:, hopefully this rig won't be The Terd II.

for sure with the weight, i just wrapped some solder around the wheels,and ran the rovers HUGE IMPROVEMENT. its a fun little truck but it took some work and upgrades to get it to crawl the way i wanted. you might aswell order a servo or 2 the stockers just suck. also 4 link it and get rid of the bat wings.
go to ZNO.com theyve got great products for the 10 & are good guys to deal with.
good luck"thumbsup"

I've already prepared for out of the box suckness and read up about the servos and batwing/4- link mod. Already have the 4-link parts and aluminum for the new upper mounts. Can't decide though whether to use rod ends or ball studs/cups for that one, I have both that use 4/40 allthread. All llinks are getting carbon fiber sleeved and upgraded ends. Hitec servos will be my upgrade path for steering (HS565MG?). Rc4wd will likely get my business for tires, they have an awesome selection. I might consider the Rovers, but they remind me of the Losi stocker claw tires, which I've typically ditched right away.

Anyhow, I have some thread/forum wading to do.......I promise not to post a jackass question in the Tips and Tricks Thread! :flipoff: :lmao:
Poor OP asked only "tips and tricks" be posted, and it's waay cluttered by asshats who obviously cannot read/search! Lol. Fawkin' Dolts!

try the traxxas rod ends , super tough i havent broken one yet. just a thought"thumbsup"

i guess i am one of the unfortunate guys who messed up the stock wheels :) they were quite good for a time but after some hard crawling i noticed the left and right tires wont rotate at the same time. looking at the issue it was the stock wheel's hex hub that gave way must be when i was trying to get out of tight binds. not to alarm you since i think this aint a common issue for rs10 users.

I'm starting to get that issue ever since the 540's. guess some trick aluminum wheels are is the near future.

Thanks for the heads up on the wheels guys!"thumbsup"

Does anyone comp with their RS10's? Would it be like showing up with a Nikko ride?:lmao: Just getting into the big guys FWIW and didn't do my homework on that aspect.

i went to a few comps with mine , but its hard to keep up with the big boys.

Here's something from the Video section. 2 modded RS10's in a comp. they seem to be holding their own!

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/videos/307070-ctccv-2011-comp-vids.html

btw, I wouldn't write off your stock wheels before you even get them. I got 4 months of abuse and a 540 swap in em before I had an issue. Just know they aren't bomb proof. This is extreme 4x4. $hit breaks!

The biggest thing I don't like about the stock wheels, or any plastic wheels for that matter, is the fact that constant unbolting the beadlocks for foam tuning, weight tuning, or changing tires can lead to stripped out screw holes if you're not careful. Nicer wheels remedy that problem. If you just bolt a good set of tires/foams up and don't mess with them, they hold up decently well.

Thanks Jackalope! I'm all too familiar with breakage in the 1:1 wheeling world......typical breakage cost $500, more or less. I've even made a statue out of broken Toyota shafts. I've been building my tons and expect to even break those running 42" tires. I break ujoints on my micro crawlers constantly and expect breakage on my '10 too!:shock:

I'm gonna stick with the stocker wheels for now, but those tires gotta go......just for the looks alone! I thought about grooving and sipes, but they'd still be not what I want. This thing will be modded out in short order and get comped. I went to a comp in Montana back in '09 (1st and only) and was amazed how capable and cool the rigs and folks are, just like 1:1!"thumbsup"

Duly noted! Your rig is fawesome! Haven't found your buildup yet, but gotta know.....what chassis is that in the picture archive? I'm a huge fan of body-less chassis crawlers. The one the '10s come with NEEDS to be gone asap.

Thanks man! The bodiless chassis I posted in the picture archive is a homemade chassis I built based on the beetlejuice chassis. It worked well, but I've moved onto different ventures now and have a new build thread going on. Here's a link:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/300922-jsowens-rs10-hellstrom-rebuild.html

If you like the bodiless chassis', I highly suggest checking the classifieds often. It's pretty common to see lightly used beetlejuice and t1e moonbuggy chassis kits in there for fairly cheap.

Yeah, I found the new build in your signature. Sexy!"thumbsup"

I will definitely be looking in the for sale section for stuff. But, more likely than not, I'll end up with a roll yer own made of CF, I'm all about fabbing stuff. Of my 3 micros, 2 are body-less. Just love the simplicity and low profile. I also ordered tires, HPI Rock Grabbers! I just love the pattern and sidewalls. I will end up with Rovers and alloys too eventually for comping. I'll definitely catch those in the sale section or Egay.

Thanks for the beta Man!:mrgreen:

another heads up, i just changed to topcad alum wheels and they dont seem to sit well on the stock hex nuts becaused of the small protruding part on the wheel hub. it just barely reach half of the nut when the wheels are mounted. bummer :(

My MSD wheels were exactly the same way. It's a super easy fix, though. If you have a pair of pliers or a vice and a dremel tool...just hold the hex and dremel down the protruding part, then it should work like a charm.