Everest 10 twist

[D-Dub]

How can I reduce or eliminate the torque twist on this truck?

I've moved the spring spacers around to reduce it, but I put a larger motor in it and a lipo and its gotten worse.

Kid likes to go fast and climb hills.

Should I just look into a different vehicle or is it possible to move anything around to eliminate or further reduce the torque twist?

[ferp420]

sway bars are the easyest way to reduce torque twist but there are some ways to do it that cost a bit more like a skid plate that moves the lower links inbound and down making the link geomitry alot better you can move the upper links were they mount to the axle further apart about the same as the lower link at the skid plate and then theres the pen spring mod were you remove the spring on the shock and replace it with the tiny spring out of a pen i cut mine in half so i only needed 2 pens
but dependihg on how fast and.how.big the hill sway bars might still be needed on top of everything else the e10 is a clone of a vary old truck and redcat never bothered to improve it but making it better is half the fun and theres so much to learn from the e10

[D-Dub]

Thanks for the ideas! I will look into them. Yea I have been playing around with moving the shocks out, swapping the links in and out, I took the shock spacers out, and that at least keeps it from rolling over on a hard launch or bounce.

Also moving the links to the outside holes on the bottom seems to have lowered it slightly and given it a little less roll. Less angle on the drive shafts too.

[D-Dub]

I noticed there is next to no torque twist when going in reverse. Would flipping the motor and transmission around provide any benifit?

[Screwfly]

With my E10, moved the top of the shocks about an inch towards the center to lower the height and soften the spring rate. Also replaced the skid with one from Road Dog RC to move the links in. I was running a 35t and lipo. Still has some twist but really performed well.
Any aftermarket skid for a Gen 7 will work too.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

[D-Dub]

Originally Posted by Screwfly

With my E10, moved the top of the shocks about an inch towards the center to lower the height and soften the spring rate. Also replaced the skid with one from Road Dog RC to move the links in. I was running a 35t and lipo. Still has some twist but really performed well.
Any aftermarket skid for a Gen 7 will work too.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

Thanks! I can print a different skid plate out, I think that is the direction ill go.

Did you jus drill new holes for the shocks?

[Screwfly]

Originally Posted by D-Dub

Thanks! I can print a different skid plate out, I think that is the direction ill go.



Did you jus drill new holes for the shocks?

I did. I also notched the chassis so I didn't need spacers to keep them from binding.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

[D-Dub]

Awesome, I used a couple M3 nuts for spacers on the shocks.

I was just playing around and used the body mount post holes, about 1.5 inch in from the factory locations and it flattened everything out and no more torque twist AT ALL.

Did some test driving and holy cow, this thing will crawl over anything now that the cg is about 2" lower.

Only issues I have now, is the driveshafts rub on the links, and the links hit the battery tray on the end. Ill have to see if I can swap them around to keep that from happening and cut back some of the battery tray.

Ill probably do what you did and drill another hole about an inch in to mount the shocks out a little more so I have more travel down.

Thanks for the ideas!

[D-Dub]

Flipped around the front and rear inner links to bow out instead of in to clear the drive shafts.

3S just ate a drive shaft on my first run in the dirt. Looks like I'm doing something right.

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by D-Dub

Flipped around the front and rear inner links to bow out instead of in to clear the drive shafts.

3S just ate a drive shaft on my first run in the dirt. Looks like I'm doing something right.

your heading the right direction if you want more performance your gona need a different chassie

and if you want to run 3s your gona want to swap axles the redcat axles dont like 3s but will last a life time on 2s well maybe not but you get the idea but there still vary limited so differnt axles are a good idea

[DrIsotope]

No idea why, but Redcat is selling the entire front axle assembly from the Gen7 Pro for a whopping 25 bucks. Including CVAs, servo mount, even half of the center driveshaft. I mean, the Redcat CVAs by themselves are like $17-18 a pair.

[ferp420]

i used one of those axles on a project it broke in 3 places in seconds the axle shaft snaped the chub broke and the shock mount broke off i think it was a bad run and some one is just dumping them

[D-Dub]

Originally Posted by ferp420

your heading the right direction if you want more performance your gona need a different chassie

and if you want to run 3s your gona want to swap axles the redcat axles dont like 3s but will last a life time on 2s well maybe not but you get the idea but there still vary limited so differnt axles are a good idea

This is my kids crawler, I have a SCX10 that I beat on.

Replacing the driveshaft and will be sticking to 2S.

[bgredjeep]

Originally Posted by D-Dub

Thanks! I can print a different skid plate out, I think that is the direction ill go.

Did you jus drill new holes for the shocks?

I drew these if you have a printer. I had the road dog rc plate for around a year and ended up stripping one of the mounting holes so I drew and made my own now that I have a printer.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4874315