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Old 03-14-2009, 12:13 PM   #1
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Default legion1capone's Creeper

Thought I would share with you guys my Venom Creeper crawler.

Body: Jconcepts Illuzions body (Blue body), Jconcepts Gatecrasher (black body)
Tires: Hot Body Rovers (whites)
Tire foams: Proline stage 2 memory foams in front and rear
Wheel weights: I don't think I have weights in my new wheels and rovers
Motor: Novak 55T
ESC: Novak Rooster Crawler
Reciever: RC4WD BIG OFFROADER 2.4GHZ 3-CHANNEL RADIO
Battery: 7.4V 2C 1250mah Lipo
Transmitter: RC4WD big offroader 2.4GHZ transmitter
Servo: JR DS8711
Shocks: Traxxas big bores xx long with 1/2" of fuel tubing on rear
springs: losi oranges up front and losi red in right rear and green in left rear
Shock oil: 40w
new Custom:
Custom Chassis I designed

Previous Setup Custom:
1. I have made custom upper shock mounts and moved the shock position from on top of the axle to down below with the lower link. (See pictures)
2. I have also moved the 4 link to the out side of the original placement on the axle.
3. I customized my CVDs to work with the axial lockers front and rear.
4. custom 60mm link mounts to connect each L bracket to get rid of the battery tray.
5. I'm using 70mm posts for my upper links
6. I have also switched most of the rods ends to traxxas rod ends.
7. Customized axial Integy driveshafts. I cut the inner shaft roughly 1/2" to make it work on the creeper

Last edited by legion1capone; 01-19-2013 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:08 PM   #2
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any pictures of your creeper? also, might want to fix what i quoted

Last edited by Squadfer; 03-14-2009 at 03:21 PM. Reason: quote was fixed
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:19 PM   #3
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Default pictures!!!




Last edited by legion1capone; 04-05-2009 at 10:13 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 04-05-2009, 10:43 PM   #4
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I recently changed a couple things on my truck. First I flipped my shocks and moved from a 30w to a 40w shock oil, added axial stiff springs in the rear/axial soft springs up front. I have drilled 2 1/8" holes in each wheel. I also have made my own skid plate so I don't get cought on the tranny, made a rear electronics plate mount for the upper links, and I also moved my upper links on the outside. I don't know if I mentioned before I used an axial AX10 Integy Driveshaft as a replacement for the front. All I did was cut the inner shaft about 1/2".






I am going to Les Schwab tomorrow to get some more wheel weights. I am going to run about 12-14 ounces in each front and 7-8oz in the rear. I have a lipo that helps with keeping the top end light. Unlike with the Heavy nimh battery that makes it super top heavy. I would run the lipo all the time but I am waiting for the local hobby store to get my charger in. I have used the lipo once when I charged it on my buddies charger. It makes a work of differance! Oh and as it sits right now I have 3" of ground clearance. Yeah its nice but it hopfully once I get the shocks positioned differantly it will help lower the truck a bit for a lower center of gravity.

Here is what I am working on next. I am using some corner braces to move the shocks more up and down instead of angled in like they are stock.


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Old 04-06-2009, 01:46 PM   #5
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I also want to note that I just added more weight to the wheels. I went from 3oz in the front to 9oz in each front wheel and I went from 3oz in the rear to 5oz. I really like how it helps with keeping the tires planted. I also notice it doesn't tend to flip over as much as it used to with the nimh battery up top. This is a very good useful and cheap mod.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:10 PM   #6
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I blew up my front differential earlier today. It shredded the gears.



So I decided to use the axial differential locker. Instead of making the inner hole bigger I shaved down the axle ends. You can use a coarse file like I did or a dremel. Round off the nubs and trim the middle of the locker flat. Look at the pictures to make more sense of this. Just tested it and it works! Hopefully it lasts.





Last edited by legion1capone; 04-06-2009 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:04 PM   #7
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carnage thats cool havent had a problem with mind yet.if i do i will be doin that mod.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:13 AM   #8
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Oh man, my front diff did that too. Did the same replacement. Guess it makes the lock/unlock on the diff useless, but haven't had any problems with it coming unlocked hehe.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:23 PM   #9
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Yeah I ran it all day today and it ran flawlessly! Love the upgrade for the differential. It's too bad though, at the end of the day I stripped the gears inside my servo. Owe well I need a better servo anyways.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:31 PM   #10
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is there any play in the diff after the upgrade?
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:48 PM   #11
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I don't notice any differance between the locker and the stock spyder gears.
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:16 PM   #12
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When my front diff opened up on me, I just locked it back up and tightened the screw that holds the slide switch on. Now that it's tight, the diff doesn't open up any more.
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legion1capone View Post
I recently changed a couple things on my truck. First I flipped my shocks and moved from a 30w to a 40w shock oil, added axial stiff springs in the rear/axial soft springs up front. I have drilled 2 1/8" holes in each wheel.
Do you mean White and Yellow colour coded springs?

Your left part of the creeper is also softer, that is why your collar is moved up? saw this alsewhere, also.
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:22 PM   #14
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Yes, I believe those are the springs. My buddy gave them to me since he wasn't using them. The collar in the left rear is adjusted to help with the torque twist.
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:52 PM   #15
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I finished the L brackets and have everything setup for the most part. Seems to work pretty good. I also put the internal springs back in the shocks. It went from sitting at 3 1/8" to 2 3/4" with the internal springs in the shocks.

The brackets drilled:



Finished product:


Rear View:



Front View:

Last edited by legion1capone; 04-19-2009 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:48 AM   #16
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and how does it perform?
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:42 AM   #17
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It looks so tall now? What is the belly height
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:13 AM   #18
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instead of having to change shock housing to 90-100 mils. Limit the inside of the shock with fuel tubing. It will lower your belly height helping your sidehilling and limiting flex. You will find out carrying a wheel over a crack/hole is much better than flexing through it. You can look up how to add the fuel tubing in the axial section. I use roughly 1/4 inch outside/inside of my shocks to really balance by suspension. Just a tip. Good job on getting those shocks more upright.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:35 AM   #19
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I'm going to put in the internal springs tomorrow. It sits really high!
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:56 PM   #20
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I put the internal springs back in the shocks this morning and finished the brackets. It is sitting at 2 3/4" now. Wow I am really liking this setup! It is much more predictable and with the torque twist pretty much eliminated it is going to be much more capable. I wish it would stop pouring out! I hope I have it setup good enough to do ok in the comp tomorrow. I think you all would be impressed at how much better it performs with less than $20 of hardware and a little TLC. I will post some video soon.

Last edited by legion1capone; 04-19-2009 at 12:24 PM.
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