My AR60 Axled Super Class Shafty. Ready To Run! So, I've been accumulating some parts, and thought this would be a fun Way to introduce my nephews into the crawling scene. It's both a simple formula, with some good technical bits to be a crash course in crawlers. Plus, the rocks in their back yard is a bit tough for a 2.2. Above all, uncle can still play with it:mrgreen: Here's some of the parts. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/5433fd66.jpg Here is the short list of what's the plan of attack. - Wraith axles set up for 4ws - AX trans with HR gears, CDW 6mm long output up front, Eritex dig, Maxx shafts - SuperShafty.com BombProof top shaft w/ RRP Gen3 slipper - HH 10t - East Coast RC cut n shuts (Super Sedonas up front, Super Rovers back side - 1" wide Blast wheels from Carter Fab - CDW 1.0 old school chassis for that low slung stance - XR shocks with a cap mod - Hitec 7954 getting 7,4v from a CC BEC up front - Hitec 5955 running 6v off the esc out back - BRXL & RX bypass adapters sourced through CREATIONFAB - MT4 Links will most likely be delrin or aluminum solid rod. More to come once the rest of the goods show up. |
Re: My Super Attempt. Looking forward to seeing this come together "thumbsup" |
Re: My Super Attempt. Quote:
This thing should be fun when it's done. Surely not as capable as an MOA Super, but i'm confident it'll exceed my expectations and put some smiles on the kids faces"thumbsup" |
Re: My Super Attempt. Very cool! I would keep the tires and wheelbase a little smaller to keep the axles and shafts happy. Like 16" Wb, 12.5" TW, and 6.5" od tires. |
Re: My Super Attempt. Quote:
I was thining of keepin the WB on the shorter side of 17" and I'm pplanning on using Maxx shafts. Not sure wha the track width will be, but I'm gonna use the Pro-line 17mm adapters for the 4x4 Slash to widen it up a little. The tires are at home, but I imagine they are at least 7.5" tall:mrgreen: edit: Found a pic on my phone. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/bc292fc2.jpg |
Re: My Super Attempt. Those are every bit of 8" tall I imagine. I think that size tire is going to give you hell with those axles. I've seen quite a few broken universal stubs on 2.2 cars. I hope I'm wrong. But I would really consider smaller tires on 3.2" plastic wheels. "thumbsup" Here is my 16er I built for an example of the proportions I am talking about. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/super...6er-super.html |
Re: My Super Attempt. Quote:
On the 16er, are those TLT type shock mounts on the lowers? Did you machine a flat into the link first or just bolt them on? Since i'm gonna be running a 2.2 chassis, I've been pondering how i want to mount my shocks on the bottom end. So far, I have those old style clamp on's that I can put on some 1/4"(?) aluminum rod I have, or I was thinking of making some delrin lowers out of a stock pile of 5/16" rode i've accumulated and maybe try some of those TLT looking mounts. Unfortunately i don't have a "precise" way to grind a flat on them for TLT's. |
Re: My Super Attempt. I don't know if the dog bones are any stronger or not. The ones that I have seen break broke at the stub and lost a wheel. They are tlt brackets. I "machined" the flats with my dremel...:ror:. Those links are 3/8" delrin rod. The fronts were straight and held up well, but the rear lowers broke a few times near the bend at the rear most bolt on the tlt bracket. I ended up switching to 3/8" sheet links in the rear. So definitely don't use 5/16 delrin. I would say best bet would be making them out of delrin sheet, or aluminum, steel, or ti rod. |
Re: My Super Attempt. Those tires are 7.7" at most on a NARROW wheel. If you mounted them on anything wider than 1" like a 1.5" you'd be sitting at around 7.5" or just under that. 8) |
Re: My Super Attempt. Quote:
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Since this is a shafty, I don't think I'll be able to run the kind of high clearance links as I'd typically want, so I want as much GC I can get from the tire/wheel setup. 7.7" tall sounds like my kind of tire:mrgreen: |
Re: My Super Attempt. :shock: Nice start to a "Super Shafty" ;-) Subscribed !! Regards V8 |
Re: My Super Attempt. Quote:
Small package came in the mail today. OG CDW 1.0:mrgreen: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/faa4bd06.jpg I had gifted this to Gunnar quite a long time ago, and when this project came to mind I thought I'd ask him if he still had it. Well, he did, and he was kind enough to send it back to Hawaii. Thanks Scott"thumbsup" Main concern is that I'll be running some long ass shocks on this thing, and the 1.0 was designed around some much shorter shocks. Because the WB is so long, I think I'll be able to keep the overall height pretty low by laying down the shocks. I'll probably have to externally limit them to keep things in check though. |
Re: My Super Attempt. 3.5" shocks would probably be best, but you could cut down the bodies of the XR shocks because they are threaded right? Do you have any shorter shock shafts laying around? Keep in mind the shock mounts on the links add more height as well. I do like using the longer skid 2.2 chassis though. Thats similar to the Chaotic chassis I used in that 16er thread. |
Re: My Super Attempt. I do have some 3.5" big bores... But I don't think I'll need them, or the link mounts. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/7b45820e.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/df28dd64.jpg WB is at 16-3/8" right now. I think I want to stretch it to 17" to get the height a little flatter but I'll wait till the wheels come in. As it is, I could externally limit the XR's by a 1/3rd of their travel. Overall, I'm pretty happy how this little mock up turned out. I do think I am gonna try the 5/16" delving lowers though, mainly because the links on here are some funky thread size that is too big for 3mm rod ends and too small for Revo ends. But since they won't have mount drilled into them, or any crazy bends, it "should" be ok. I plan to go with 4mm studs and revo ends. |
Re: My Super Attempt. Cut the 5/16" delrin rod to length. I think the slightly longer WB will bringthe ride height down a little, But i may still internally limit the shocks a tad. Link lengths (minus rod ends) aare: Uppers - 5.5" Lowers - 5.25" Front tierod - 6.75" Rear tierod - 6.5" Uppers will have a single bend for chassis and driveshaft clearance. Lowers are straight. Front tie rod will have a double bend for clearance of the long Robi style servo horn. rear tie rod will have a single bend. Just waiting on a fresh 4mm tap so that I can finish them up. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/4c936410.jpg |
Re: My Super Attempt. This looks interesting, looking forward to more updates"thumbsup" Kieren |
Re: My Super Attempt. Interesting is right. Everything seems so familiar, but so foreign at the same time. I had some time do quite a bit of mock up today. I snapped one of the uppers trying to bend it. Guess it wasn't hot enough. Surprisingly, the 1/4" aluminum rods I "had" originally used as lowers we're near perfect at getting the pinion angles correct. I did have to cheat and use a Jato rod end on one end of each of the lowers though. Squash down, the WB is 17.25" http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/f20c4b3b.jpg The 10t Holmes puller is a beast, and couldn't fit between the rails of the CDW chassis. I couldn't see myself relying on anything else to get those big wheels turning, so I had to make a big sacrifice. I had to make a spacer to raise the motor/trans assembly up about a 1/4". http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/be77bae9.jpg Sadly this does raise my COG significantly, but then again, the puller clears just fine now. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/74b28ff0.jpg When I mock up the Maxx shafts, I will see if the uppers need a bend to clear them on the axle end. If they need a bend, I'll probably swap out the Jatos on the lowers for Revo's which will maintain my pinion angles as well as shorten up the WB a tad. Front servo is off, as I will be fabricating a axle mounted lipo tray that will allows to secure a 2s or 3s 850mah lipo on each side of the servo. Running them in series will get me that 4s-6s power I desire. Plus it'll keep on that weight on the axle and far forward. I put the VP XR knuckles on to allow me to "hopefully" fit the DLux knuckle weights up front. |
Re: My Super Attempt. 4-6s power on that 10t is gona be hard on parts lol I like the idea though, has me thinking about a fun rig from all my extra parts.... |
Re: My Super Attempt. Quote:
My reasoning is I'll need some juice since I'll have to power the motor, two 300+ oz servos, and the 225 on the dig. To be safe may e I'll try 3s first. Lol |
Re: My Super Attempt. Well. She's pretty much a roller. I thought I'd share just a couple pics of the big gains I made in getting this thing running. Kydex front lipo mount. Please note the bend I added to the uppers. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/31042aaf.jpg As mentioned, I did have to add a bend to all the uppers for driveshaft clearance. At full flex, there is just enough room for free movement. WB has been shrank back down to 16-3/8". http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...r/374e3c77.jpg My second set of universals arrived, so that went in. Also, some OD/UD gears showed face, but I'm too lazy to install them. Things to do: - steering linkage (really considering just going VP on that) - rx & esc install (unsure where I want to place them all) - wheels! - body of some sort. - run it! |
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