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07-16-2005, 08:25 PM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Myrtle Beach
Posts: 73
| what happen to the sticky on how to lock clod diff
i member seen the sticky on how to lock a clod diff with pics and everything. well i remembered it on here and i was walking thru atozone and seen the jb weld. so i get some not knowin what i am doin and its not on here. n e help
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07-16-2005, 08:32 PM | #2 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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here ya go.. i didn't feel like searching for ya Part 1: I'm going to try and provide a guide on how to lock a differential on a Clod truck. I decide to do this project after searching and not being able to find a good description of how to do this anywhere on the web. I am by no means an expert on this, but my method works. There may also be other ways of doing this. The advantages of a locked diff are greatly increased traction while pulling or climbing. The disadvantages are increased turning radius, somewhat increased wear on tires and some driveline parts. I have found 2 different glues that work well for locking the gears; both are 2 part epoxies, which require mixing. J B Weld, and a new product I found at a local automotive supply store called "Plastic Welding System" it is designed special for plastics. (See pic 1-2) Next. It’s time to tear things apart. This pic shows it before I begin, and with the wheels removed. During this project, it is also a good time for a good cleaning of any off-road grime which has accumulated, check for any loose hardware, and damage which needs repair, and a time for a good oil/grease where needed Next step is to prepare to remove the steering linkages and all suspension links. Depending on your truck these may vary somewhat, but should be similar. More linkages to be removed, along with the pivot bolts. Hint: If you sometimes have trouble remembering how things fit back together, take some pics with a camera, make sketches, or even use a camcorder. It will give you an instant reference on how everything fits. (Not that I have ever had this problem!) Now you can see the steering links and pivot bolts removed. Next the wheel hubs have been removed. I find it helpful, after removing any nuts or washers from a bolt, place them back on the bolt in the same arrangement they were removed. It keeps everything together and less likely to lose any small parts. More linkages removed. Finally after removing everything necessary, the axle is free from the truck (Note! I missed getting any pics of removing the motor and servo mount. They share the same mounting screws, so it is pretty straightforward.) Now we are ready to open up the axle housing. The screws marked "a" are the ones we need to remove. The sleeves marked "b" are what the motor/servo mount screws pass thru. Use caution when opening the case up as these sleeves are a tight fit thru the case, just go-slow and you won't have a problem. Now the case is open, we can see what we will be dealing with. |
07-16-2005, 08:34 PM | #3 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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Part 2 These are the gears we are concerned with. First thing to do is thoroughly degrease them with a non-caustic cleaner, so as not to harm the plastic gears. Now that they are clean, let them dry for a while and before proceeding, make sure they are completely dry. OK, now that the gears have finished drying, we can start the locking/gluing process. The areas to apply the epoxy are indicated in the first pic. The second shows the gears assembled. Depending on the type of epoxy, the drying time will vary. If you will be using J B Weld, it would be best to allow them to dry overnight for full strength. The PWS epoxy I used for this project dries solid in about 15 minutes. I do not recommend using this PWS epoxy indoors as the fumes are very strong! Even with using the faster dry PWS, I will still allow it to set overnight before running the truck. Before the glue dries totally, take the time to make certain that you don't have any excess squirting out, check the areas I have indicated. If it has already dried some, you can very carefully use a knife to trim the excess. Now is also the time to check the 4 screws in each axle half, make certain they are tight now, because the only way to do this is with it taken apart. The last thing you want is for a screw to come out, and bounce around inside with all the gears. After waiting the recommended time for the epoxy to dry, it is time to begin reassembly. The pics show the gears back in their proper location, along with a couple of areas to apply a small amount of grease. You can use hobby type diff grease, white lithium grease or a good silicone base grease. Be careful not to use too much, as it will just work its way out and attract a lot of extra dirt. Now we can start putting the 2 axle halves back together making certain that all the gears mesh together properly, and all shafts are aligned. Be careful with the 2 motor screw sleeves as they fit rather snug. It may also be necessary to rotate one or both of the stub axle shafts to allow the unit to slip into their proper positions. Go ahead and start all the screws in, but don't tighten completely, until you are certain everything is in proper alignment. I have found it helpful to mark the motor screw hole with a little paint; it allows my feeble old eyes to align it quicker when reattaching it to the gear case. Now begin to re-mount the axle to the frame/links, starting with the sway bar mount if your Clod is so equipped. After the axle assemble is partly in position, go ahead and attach the motor and servo mount using the shared screws. The next step will be to reattach all of the upper and lower suspension links. After the suspension linkages are attached we will re-install the wheel/axle hubs. Apply a small amount of powdered graphite to the shoulder of the pivot bolt before running it all the way in. Do not over tighten the pivot bolt, as it will not allow the hubs to pivot freely. We continue attaching the wheel hubs and begin to attach the steering linkages in their proper locations, being certain to place the conical washers where they were originally. At this time we also mount the bumper back to the axle housing. Finally we finish attaching all the steering linkages, checking for any possible interference, which would not allow it to work smoothly. After this is complete, go back over everything and make sure you have it all hooked up proper, and all the screws and bolts are tightened properly. All that is left is to reattach the wheels and we are done! Ready to put the body back on, drop in a fresh battery pack, and take it out crawling! |
07-17-2005, 12:59 AM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Myrtle Beach
Posts: 73
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thanks a lot man..
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07-17-2005, 01:21 AM | #5 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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your welcome |
10-31-2005, 10:59 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Vallejo
Posts: 178
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Good post, Thank You! I figured you welded the spiders :neutral: |
03-02-2009, 06:31 PM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Sin City
Posts: 1,332
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Old thread i know. Any chance of getting the pictures re-linked?
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03-02-2009, 06:43 PM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: LOMPOC
Posts: 701
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Having pics on this would be helpful. I have a set that need to be locked.
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03-02-2009, 09:09 PM | #9 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Here
Posts: 2,320
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This thread is 4 years old, but you can stil see the how to on the main page if you go to the TECH area. Here's the link: http://www.rccrawler.com/clodlocker.htm I hope this helps | |
03-02-2009, 10:14 PM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: LOMPOC
Posts: 701
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Thanks that helps. I didn't know it was there.
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