RCCrawler Forums

DeaDShorT · 08-16-2006, 08:43 PM

Clod based super. Variant of a stick, have it sitting on a 17" wheelbase for starters. Started with a 1/2" aluminum round tube from Home Depot and a couple of blind nuts/nutserts. Have my links made and mounted, looks to have little bit of a clearance issue on the motor side on both axles. Looks like I'll be able to space the link mount off the spine enough to gain the clearances needed without putting some wacky bends in them to clear.

Still working on sleaving my heim/rod ends with some 13/32" brass tubing and boring the axles just an RCH for a nice tight, wobble free fit. That and it's time to try and figure out the shock mounts.

Planning on running Moab XL on narrowed Proline 40 series non beadlock wheels. Have the TTR adjustable motor mounts with 55t Integy's. New Era Clod to Maxx wheel adapters.

As for electronics....Currently own a Hitec Lynx 3D, and I know it can be programmed for reversing a Tmaxx, so I'm hoping that rear steer won't be too difficult. 3 channel receiver. Leaning towards a TR2 for speed control, and that big BEC amperage. Will likely start with the 645MG's or an equivalent, and looking @ the battery packs Kevin has suggested for his Crawler Store Stick.

What else? Thinking that 9 tooth pinions should work, but with the extra height of the XL's, maybe the 8 toothers would be better? Also planning on TTR/MIP CVD kits front and rear, as well as bearings as soon as the majority of the fab/fitting and modifying gets closer to finished. This is my first crawler, and I'm not going to be burning up the Colorado winter series anytime in the near future, although I could see hitting a couple comps here and there.

I'm looking for just a nudge off in the right direction, or should I say a reassurrance that I'm on the right line anyway.

BTW...
OHH, There is no way in H377 that I'd ever be able to turn this out with any accuracy and in enough quantity to even make it a feasible option. Kudos to Kevin on the original design, If I wasn't a cheap bastard I'd have bought his and been crawlin' by now.

Stan.

Mnster · 08-17-2006, 12:47 AM

Go with a 8t in the back and a 9t in the front it really cuts out the stall.

andrewmp6 · 08-17-2006, 06:47 AM

sounds like a good start post some pics of it if you can

dieselfuel · 08-17-2006, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mnster

Go with a 8t in the back and a 9t in the front it really cuts out the stall.

ive only crawled with a clod one time, but it seems that the stall could definetly be used to your advantage... it was kinda nice going up some steep rocks and the rear would stall and let the front end pull rather than the rear pushing and fliping the truck over.

Grizzly4x4 · 08-18-2006, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselfuel

ive only crawled with a clod one time, but it seems that the stall could definetly be used to your advantage... it was kinda nice going up some steep rocks and the rear would stall and let the front end pull rather than the rear pushing and fliping the truck over.

Running mismatched pinions does not eliminate the stall, it just keeps it more manageable.

Either an 9T/8T or 10T/9T front/rear setup should be fine with the Moabs and 55t's.

DeaDShorT · 08-18-2006, 08:48 PM

Pics to follow as time and progress allow, wifey swiped the digital for a sales conference in MN this weekend, and I'll need to buy some RCC swag so I don't have to figure too much out on posting pics.

BTW...10C Nimh battery pack will peak somewhere between 12 and 12.8 volts or so...same with 3c 11.1 lipo, will the TR2 handle that little bit of over voltage with 2 645MGs and the 55t integy's...or do I run risk of letting the majic smoke out?

Was also looking @ these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMGX0&P=0

Or maybe CBP could build me a 9C version of that. 5 on the front and 4 on the rear.

I should probably post up in the electronics threads

Stan

Rash · 08-21-2006, 07:37 AM

Hi

Hope im not hijacking this thread by posting my question hear, but hey

My question is in regards to running mismatched pinions.

If the pinions are mismatched does that mean one axle will spin faster that the other?
So would this put extra stress on the axles?

Rash

CRUSHER1 · 08-21-2006, 10:02 AM

PICS POST PICS!! i would like to see you build it, im getting my digi this weekend so i can finally post pics of my build up.

DeaDShorT · 08-21-2006, 04:11 PM

Working on that as I type...This is called the 8-ball, Lotsa Bad Karma already with this one, hopefully I'll get the demons exorcised shortly.

Anyone able to answer why the Sick chassis's I've seen have shocks on the same side of the spine and not opposing corners?

Stan.

DeaDShorT · 08-24-2006, 05:19 PM

GOT WHEELS....http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFNF7&P=0

Now a trip to My Uncles lathe to narrow 'em. Changed my link mounts a little to allow the clearance on the motor.

I'll try to get those pics up....kinda trying to hide from wifey

DeaDShorT · 09-12-2006, 10:13 PM

Talk about a dead thread...

Used some Alumiweld rods form harbor Freight to weld my revised upper link mounts to where I wanted them. The Mapp torch and that Alumiweld rod worked pretty damn nice, although I'm no master welder by any stretch. I was in the middle of putting a clearance bend in the 1/4" plated steel link when **SNAP** ARGH, you dumb *&%#. Then looked @ the rod and it had a major air pocket in it, like a manufacturing flaw. OH WELL. Another trip to the Home Depot should let me get enough to finish that link and my steering. I'm bummed that I've resorted to putting clearance bends in the links, but @ this point it's in the name of getting it built and running, I'll sort out the details later.

That, and the bad MOJO/KARMA thing keeps rolling...I can't believe how many #43 drill bits and 4-40 taps I've destroyed

.
And I'm starting to have questions again on the TR2 vs. the EVX, or even a Super Rooster if I could find one. I was after the big BEC amps but now I'm a little leary about some of the QC things I'm reading about. It does seem that Tekin stands by their products and has great customer service, though.

Maybe I should call this the slowest build up thread

Stan.

4link4eva · 09-13-2006, 08:59 AM

Dead thread? You see mine, practically the only post was Dirk saying how it is "horrible"...
As for the ESC, MOPED

And about the shocks-on-same-side-of-axle thing, grab an axle, and flex it both ways. You'll notice that when you flex it one way, the twist goes all the way down the "stick" and into the shock at the other end, then when you flex it the other way, the flex is soaked up by the shock on that axle.

Cheers, and like the rest of us, "IWANNASEEPICS!!"

DeaDShorT · 09-13-2006, 06:39 PM

thanks 4link....I'm planning on buying in soon, and get some pics in here. Guys a the LHS say I'm doing good, considering I've never seen one of these up close and personal. Mostly just looking @ pics on this forum.

What does the moped have for a bec amp rating? I may just suck it up and buy the TR2 and roll with it until it quits or I can afford brushless.

dezfan · 09-13-2006, 06:48 PM

Your thread would attract more interest if there were pics in the thread.

As for the MOPED, it's BEC is rated at 5V 3A.

Good luck and post some pics.

4link4eva · 09-14-2006, 09:22 AM

Only seeing them on this forum is how most of us start up, and since there are very few crawlers in Britain, everyone loves seeing mine round here

I'm running a MOPED in my clod crawler and it works perfectly, for $35, I recommend it.

DeaDShorT · 09-17-2006, 09:45 AM

OK, so here's some of what I've got so far. Spine and my links, the straight one needs to be tapped and the ends put back on and bent, thats the replacement for the one that snapped on me.

Also working on the shock mounting and steering.

DeaDShorT · 09-17-2006, 09:53 AM

Damn, Sorry for the small picture, guess I'll need to resize this or something

. I'll work on that.

Stan.

DeaDShorT · 09-18-2006, 06:15 PM

Well, RCmart just got $37.40 with shipping for a MOPED....DAMN YOU DEZ!!!

Thanks for the info, and I'm looking forward to getting on the Moped bandwagon. Now lets see when it gets here:-( .

DeaDShorT · 09-24-2006, 08:04 AM

Well, I got around to fabing my front shock tower and lower shock mount. These have been the most difficult and time consuming pieces to layout and make. The spacer for the lower shock mount was really interesting, one side has 3mm threads for the traxxas screw and the otherside has a 4-40 thread to mount through the plate. I'll get around to the rear later today or early in the week, then I can work on steering.

ENJOY.

Stan.

DeaDShorT · 09-26-2006, 08:58 PM

She's a roller!! Well until I take her apart and lock the diffs, round off a few rough edges and spill some loctite on everything. Used Twinset's/Gimbal's BTA steering servo bracket idea for the front steer and some brakets I bought @ RCH Thornton for the rear steer. Ended up with some shock/steering servo clearance issues, so the rear steer will be in front of the axle. Still needs body mounts, a suitable body, battery pack(s) servos and speed control/receiver. Stock Clod tire/wheels are just temporary, still working on the narrowed proline velocity 40 series wheels. They are the same color as the shock springs. Debating on Moab XL's or Mashers.

ON TO THE PICS

Looks like I fixed my picture sizing issue,

Stan.

08-16-2006, 08:43 PM	#1
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Starting my build Clod based super. Variant of a stick, have it sitting on a 17" wheelbase for starters. Started with a 1/2" aluminum round tube from Home Depot and a couple of blind nuts/nutserts. Have my links made and mounted, looks to have little bit of a clearance issue on the motor side on both axles. Looks like I'll be able to space the link mount off the spine enough to gain the clearances needed without putting some wacky bends in them to clear. Still working on sleaving my heim/rod ends with some 13/32" brass tubing and boring the axles just an RCH for a nice tight, wobble free fit. That and it's time to try and figure out the shock mounts. Planning on running Moab XL on narrowed Proline 40 series non beadlock wheels. Have the TTR adjustable motor mounts with 55t Integy's. New Era Clod to Maxx wheel adapters. As for electronics....Currently own a Hitec Lynx 3D, and I know it can be programmed for reversing a Tmaxx, so I'm hoping that rear steer won't be too difficult. 3 channel receiver. Leaning towards a TR2 for speed control, and that big BEC amperage. Will likely start with the 645MG's or an equivalent, and looking @ the battery packs Kevin has suggested for his Crawler Store Stick. What else? Thinking that 9 tooth pinions should work, but with the extra height of the XL's, maybe the 8 toothers would be better? Also planning on TTR/MIP CVD kits front and rear, as well as bearings as soon as the majority of the fab/fitting and modifying gets closer to finished. This is my first crawler, and I'm not going to be burning up the Colorado winter series anytime in the near future, although I could see hitting a couple comps here and there. I'm looking for just a nudge off in the right direction, or should I say a reassurrance that I'm on the right line anyway. BTW... OHH, There is no way in H377 that I'd ever be able to turn this out with any accuracy and in enough quantity to even make it a feasible option. Kudos to Kevin on the original design, If I wasn't a cheap bastard I'd have bought his and been crawlin' by now. Stan.

09-17-2006, 09:45 AM	#16
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	OK, so here's some of what I've got so far. Spine and my links, the straight one needs to be tapped and the ends put back on and bent, thats the replacement for the one that snapped on me. Also working on the shock mounting and steering. Last edited by DeaDShorT; 10-07-2006 at 09:14 AM.

09-18-2006, 06:15 PM	#18
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Well, RCmart just got $37.40 with shipping for a MOPED....DAMN YOU DEZ!!! Thanks for the info, and I'm looking forward to getting on the Moped bandwagon. Now lets see when it gets here:-( . Last edited by DeaDShorT; 09-18-2006 at 07:14 PM.

09-24-2006, 08:04 AM	#19
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	more pics!!! Well, I got around to fabing my front shock tower and lower shock mount. These have been the most difficult and time consuming pieces to layout and make. The spacer for the lower shock mount was really interesting, one side has 3mm threads for the traxxas screw and the otherside has a 4-40 thread to mount through the plate. I'll get around to the rear later today or early in the week, then I can work on steering. ENJOY. Stan. Last edited by DeaDShorT; 10-07-2006 at 09:17 AM.

09-26-2006, 08:58 PM	#20
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	More Pics 2 She's a roller!! Well until I take her apart and lock the diffs, round off a few rough edges and spill some loctite on everything. Used Twinset's/Gimbal's BTA steering servo bracket idea for the front steer and some brakets I bought @ RCH Thornton for the rear steer. Ended up with some shock/steering servo clearance issues, so the rear steer will be in front of the axle. Still needs body mounts, a suitable body, battery pack(s) servos and speed control/receiver. Stock Clod tire/wheels are just temporary, still working on the narrowed proline velocity 40 series wheels. They are the same color as the shock springs. Debating on Moab XL's or Mashers. ON TO THE PICS Looks like I fixed my picture sizing issue, Stan. Last edited by DeaDShorT; 10-07-2006 at 09:19 AM.

08-17-2006, 12:47 AM	#2
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	Go with a 8t in the back and a 9t in the front it really cuts out the stall.

08-17-2006, 06:47 AM	#3
andrewmp6 Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: louisville Posts: 814	sounds like a good start post some pics of it if you can

08-18-2006, 08:48 PM	#6
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Pics to follow as time and progress allow, wifey swiped the digital for a sales conference in MN this weekend, and I'll need to buy some RCC swag so I don't have to figure too much out on posting pics. BTW...10C Nimh battery pack will peak somewhere between 12 and 12.8 volts or so...same with 3c 11.1 lipo, will the TR2 handle that little bit of over voltage with 2 645MGs and the 55t integy's...or do I run risk of letting the majic smoke out? Was also looking @ these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMGX0&P=0 Or maybe CBP could build me a 9C version of that. 5 on the front and 4 on the rear. I should probably post up in the electronics threads Stan

08-21-2006, 07:37 AM	#7
Rash Newbie Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Norfolk, UK Posts: 1	Hi Hope im not hijacking this thread by posting my question hear, but hey My question is in regards to running mismatched pinions. If the pinions are mismatched does that mean one axle will spin faster that the other? So would this put extra stress on the axles? Rash

08-21-2006, 10:02 AM	#8
CRUSHER1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: TEMPLE Posts: 210	PICS POST PICS!! i would like to see you build it, im getting my digi this weekend so i can finally post pics of my build up.

08-21-2006, 04:11 PM	#9
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Working on that as I type...This is called the 8-ball, Lotsa Bad Karma already with this one, hopefully I'll get the demons exorcised shortly. Anyone able to answer why the Sick chassis's I've seen have shocks on the same side of the spine and not opposing corners? Stan.

08-24-2006, 05:19 PM	#10
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	GOT WHEELS....http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFNF7&P=0 Now a trip to My Uncles lathe to narrow 'em. Changed my link mounts a little to allow the clearance on the motor. I'll try to get those pics up....kinda trying to hide from wifey

09-12-2006, 10:13 PM	#11
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Talk about a dead thread... Used some Alumiweld rods form harbor Freight to weld my revised upper link mounts to where I wanted them. The Mapp torch and that Alumiweld rod worked pretty damn nice, although I'm no master welder by any stretch. I was in the middle of putting a clearance bend in the 1/4" plated steel link when SNAP ARGH, you dumb *&%#. Then looked @ the rod and it had a major air pocket in it, like a manufacturing flaw. OH WELL. Another trip to the Home Depot should let me get enough to finish that link and my steering. I'm bummed that I've resorted to putting clearance bends in the links, but @ this point it's in the name of getting it built and running, I'll sort out the details later. That, and the bad MOJO/KARMA thing keeps rolling...I can't believe how many #43 drill bits and 4-40 taps I've destroyed . And I'm starting to have questions again on the TR2 vs. the EVX, or even a Super Rooster if I could find one. I was after the big BEC amps but now I'm a little leary about some of the QC things I'm reading about. It does seem that Tekin stands by their products and has great customer service, though. Maybe I should call this the slowest build up thread Stan.

09-13-2006, 08:59 AM	#12
4link4eva RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: In England, looking for the threadlock... Posts: 1,150	Dead thread? You see mine, practically the only post was Dirk saying how it is "horrible"... As for the ESC, MOPED And about the shocks-on-same-side-of-axle thing, grab an axle, and flex it both ways. You'll notice that when you flex it one way, the twist goes all the way down the "stick" and into the shock at the other end, then when you flex it the other way, the flex is soaked up by the shock on that axle. Cheers, and like the rest of us, "IWANNASEEPICS!!"

09-13-2006, 06:39 PM	#13
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	thanks 4link....I'm planning on buying in soon, and get some pics in here. Guys a the LHS say I'm doing good, considering I've never seen one of these up close and personal. Mostly just looking @ pics on this forum. What does the moped have for a bec amp rating? I may just suck it up and buy the TR2 and roll with it until it quits or I can afford brushless.

Sponsored Links

09-13-2006, 06:48 PM	#14
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	Your thread would attract more interest if there were pics in the thread. As for the MOPED, it's BEC is rated at 5V 3A. Good luck and post some pics.

09-14-2006, 09:22 AM	#15
4link4eva RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: In England, looking for the threadlock... Posts: 1,150	Only seeing them on this forum is how most of us start up, and since there are very few crawlers in Britain, everyone loves seeing mine round here I'm running a MOPED in my clod crawler and it works perfectly, for $35, I recommend it.

09-17-2006, 09:53 AM	#17
DeaDShorT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brighton Posts: 1,015	Damn, Sorry for the small picture, guess I'll need to resize this or something . I'll work on that. Stan.

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