Just ordered the FJ40!

[kmrunner]

I have never owned a R/C before but after reading these 17 something pages and loving the FJ40, I decided to place an order with tower hobbies. Can't wait to start the build.

I have some pretty simple questions regarding the esc, servos, batteries and paint.

I am not looking to break the bank on a controller or servo. Just gonna use it for a play crawler so I was thinking of something like this initially.

Futaba 2PH 2-Channel AM/1 S3003/1 MC230CR

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXASX4**&P=7

DuraTrax 6-Cell 7.2V DTX4600 NiMH Stick Std Plug

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVBD0&P=7

Also, i am thinking of painting it the desert tan but can't seem to find a good polycarb paint close to that color? Or maybe a dark metallic grey??

Thanks in advance.

[860Crawler]

If you can afford it try to get a radio thats 2.4ghz. You'll be up in the $200 and up price range though. You'll have less interference with other people if you run with others, less interference with other electronics in your rig, awesome range, and you won't have a big antenna sticking out of your rig. The one you selected would be fine for simple crawling around though. Just keep your Rx antenna and ESC away from each other by a few inches so you dont get any glitches.

I've got one of those Duratrax batteries, I think its called Pirhana 3000mAh. It works well enough, lately its been lasting about an hour and 15 minutes which seems like forever when you're rock crawling and going slow. Compared to driving a buggy with 20 minute runtimes, its a lifetime. I've also got an 6 cell Elite 1500 pack as well which is good for its small size and light weight.

For ESC, if you are doing any hilly rock crawling get one with a drag brake so you wont roll on hills when you let off the throttle. There are crawler specific ESCs out there, I'm sure you've read of a few in all these threads. I got mine through TH for like $89, Novak Rooster Crawler. If you just want to bash you can get a standard forward/reverse ESC.


For paints there is Tamiya PS-52 Champagne Gold which is like a desert tan color though it will be shiny metallic in color. Tamiya PS-23 is a gun metal grey color.

[kmrunner]

Thanks for the info. I will look into a 2.4ghz radio and the Novak rooster crawler. I'd rather not have the big antenna sticking out

I really like the Gun Metal but I wonder how that would look with the smoke windows?

[crunky]

congrats on your purchase, you will love it.
i have fun beating on mine, and i still have yet to break anything... not even a shaft. take time putting it together, as there are a few tricky steps that are key to having it perform properly. i also took off all the cantilever style suspension off mine. it limited the travel a little bit, but to me that was a good thing. otherwise it road kinda floppy to me.

another little hint would be to check into going to a three channel radio.
as you get more into it you may find you want to add something like a winch or control your lights via your radio.

i have that radio for my trailbeater blazer, and wish i had the same radio that i have in the crunko.
the 3PM.
congrats and enjoy !
take plenty of photos to share.

[99b4c]

+1 on the Tamiya PS-52 paint, for a radio I would go with an FM for a cheap radio, like a Airtronics MX-3 or Futaba FM.

[minijosh]

Just make sure you read and reread before you do it. I'm upgrading mine to the rc channel axles and I'm having to take apart the chassis just to install new parts. It's a beast but if you go slowly you'll get it. The cantilever parts were tricky at first. Just make sure you put one side on first then the put the other side on. You'll see what I mean. Stupid little rod pissed me off until I slowed down and did it right.

[emidyl]

The rooster combo with the 55T is what we have. Pretty good set up.
For servos, we are running the 645mg. For the money they are right up there. Cheap and cheerful.
I use this servo in the rear steer as well. Heck I use it in my racing buggies and trucks.
Batteries you can use whatever you like. My son runs both stick pack lipos and
the eflite 2cell 1600. We haven't timed the eflites yet but the sticks are getting well over 1hr plus runtime.
You might want to upgrade the tires for better performance.

[kmrunner]

Thanks for the info!

Quick question on painting the lexan bodies. Are you painting the inside of the body or the outside? Does it matter? Everything I've read online about painting the lexan bodies says paint the inside. Seems like a PITA to mask off if that is the case??

[crunky]

it all depends what look you are going for, and how much you want to spend in paint.
one of the ideas i like that i have seen is painting the inside a rusty brown color, and then painting the outside of the lexan.
as the paint gets damaged, the " rust " starts.
if you want to try your hand at painting i would say grab some liquid mask and apply 4 or 5 heavy coats.
score and peel.
good luck.

[HDMM]

Congrats on the FJ, good choice!

[Joat]

I would look at a futaba fasst 3pm 2,4ghz , this will give you 4ws, which you will need with locked or unlocked axles, unless your gonna put a dig then go witha 3pk or 4pk or a similar spekturm
Also a Castle sidewinder esc will allow you to run brushed or brushless motors, also getting a Castle bec is a worth,no matter which esc you get ,but if you go all castle get the programmer too.
As for motor, you may want to look at a 35t hand wound ,it will give a bit more speed then stock, but alot more torque.

[kmrunner]

So I'm thinking the fj body is going to take awhile to paint Has anyone been successful in putting one of the fj bodies on the cr-01? Only problem i see is it is 1/15 scale.

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...t_adv_XSB10001

[860Crawler]

Masking the inside of the lexan is easy if you take your time. I took a few hours to cut/finish the body and mask and made sure there were no unsealed edges so there were no leaks or overspray. Its a real pain to mask the edges of the roof/raingutter area. I think thats why Tamiya provides white sticker strips to apply on the outside of the body in those areas. Then I hit the inside with color like 5 light coats, then I unmasked the roof and hit the entire inside with a crapload of thin white coats until the can was empty so the roof was white and the color was backed with white to make it brighter. When I pulled all of my masking I found I didn't need to use the white sticker strips on the roof/rain gutter area. If you do paint the outside make sure you pull off the protective overspray film first or you'll have some trouble. I've seen where people have applied all their stickers only to find they hadn't pulled off the overspray film

I'm torn on my next body paint scheme. I want to do a forest ranger type scale look, but then I also want to try some thing crazy like a translucent color shot over with a metallic. Might have to buy two new bodies

I've seen the FJ body used successfully. I don't know what scale they used though. New Bright makes that FJ truck in a few sizes, one of them is way too small for the CR-01, that may be it. One is super huge as well. I haven't seen a 1/10 scale one in any stores recently.

[kmrunner]

Choices, choices, choices. I figured this would turn into an expensive hobby

I think I have pretty much decided on the Futaba 3pm 2.4ghz

I am thinking the Novak Rooster Crawler ESC with possibly adding the Novak 55t (not real sure on the motor..may keep the motor that comes in it). Another option I've considered is the Castle Sidewinder ESC.

I think I am going to go with the Futaba 3305 Servo.

Anybody see any problems with this setup for a newbie Cr-01 owner?

[860Crawler]

Looks pretty good.

I have nearly the same setup, Novak, stock motor, Hitec 645MG servo, Spektrum 2.4ghz and its been mechanically/electronically fine. The only issue with these parts is, I thought the stock servo saver Tamiya provides was too weak. I was tired of it popping when the wheels were in a tight area so I just put a straight arm on the servo.

It required some finagling to make work. You have to use the provided spacers, they look like a figure 8, to bump the servo forward more on the axle. Step 13 in the manual shows the servo mounting but they don't show using spacers or even a picture of them but they are there in the kit. You have to use 4 15mm screws instead of 12mm screws so you can get all the way through the servo and the spacers and part B7 & B8. Then I shaved some off the front of the servo tray so nothing would hit when the servo arm swings.