I run Integy 75T motor with AX10 tranny,

Towerpro has a new 10T 13kg version servo,
I hope the quality is better than the past.

Could you tell me where can I get the piano wire?
If your BMV TLT has larger tires, Can you run your truck while it flip over?
Thanx!

I bought this rig, then totally rebuilt it. Longer and stronger.

I would have to measure what dia wire I used. 0.125" Too thin and the overall backbone is flimsy. Too thick and it won't flex.

Spacing of the wire is crucial too. Too wide and it won't flex. Too narrow and it will twist 180 deg. and have shaft torque twist.

I buy my music wire at the local hardware store, but MSC carries it. not sure if the thicker dia is really rolled up in a bundle. I buy mine in straight 3ft lengths.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...0147&PMCTLG=00

Torsion rigs, especially this one, have a high center of gravity (COG).
They are stiffer so you pick a differnt line from other rigs. It gets me accross some openings that others cannot do.
Trans and servo sit high on it. Now with my RC4WD and DIG it sits even higher, so it won't ride on its back too well.

Be sure to report back on the tower pro servo. Include some pics.

Thank you sweli,

I can find a 3mm piano wire here, is that OK?
Do you have a picture which can show me how you holding the piano wire with f/r axial?
Thanx!

Best pics I found of it. This shows just the chassis.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...&highlight=bmv

3mm wire is OK.

You need five (5) rod clamps (I will get you the right name) They are a metal sleeve with a tapped hole and set screw that slide over the 3mm wire.

1/4" or thicker Delrin plates (acetal copolymer). Aluminum might work also.
Cannot be weak plastic.

Holes through plates have to be very perpendicular to the plate and parallel to each other.
Holes must be just big enough to allow the wire to turn in it, but not wiggle with slop.

I will measure how far my wires are appart.

I built a BMVII style rig once and my best advice is get a thicker plastic if possible. It will help with the drilling of the holes for the wire. 1/4" will probably work but the one I did was made from 3/8".

I made my plate from a kitchen cutting board which is 9mm thick, is that OK?
thanx!

Cutting board material is probably HDPE. Should work OK. Holes may elongate over time.

Spacing on my Piano wire was 60mm.
You can play with going narrower, but will reach a point that it can roll 180deg, and can also allow the axle to slop left or right more easily.

Thicker is fine.

The problem comes in drilling and then machining a square hole through the material for the rod clamp (wire spacer with set screw). IF that is sloppy in the hole, then the axle will be sloppy on the chassy.

Note in the pictures of the thread I noted above. The trans plate in the middle only gets a rod clamp on one side, not both.
Front and rear plates get both wire ends clamped.

Thank you very much for the info.

What is rod clamp? What is it original purpose of use? It's hard to imagine what is looks like from the picture shown in the thread you provided. If possible could you give me a link from ebay?

What is the reason only one side using rod clamp on plate? Just to hold the plate in position?
Thanx!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-clamps/=3z1207

I used to have a BMV2 and mine used the type of clamp in the upper left corner of the link. I cant remember what size. As long as you get the correct ID for the size of piano wire that you plan to use, it shouldn't matter.

The purpose of these clamps is to keep the wire from sliding through the mounts.

BTW, if you are interested, here is my build thread on my old BMV2:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-tlt-crawlers/84732-lotus-bmv2.html

Crap I could not remember what these were called!?!?!

Plated Wheel Collars!
Great planes makes SAE sizes. 1/8 would be just slightly larger then 3mm.
Model F-GPMQ4304
My LHS has them, but cannot seem to find them a lot online.

Dubro also makes some, that Tower Hobbies carries.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD833&P=0

Hopefully you can find the near you.
You need 5 of them, so might want to buy more as the set screws can strip out or the hex drive end can round out.

Thank you JeremyH for the info,

It's a nice looking truck, I like to build one too, hope I can do it.
This is the kind of truck I saw in the forum, then asked you about the flip over driving capability question.
What is the pros and cons compare to the normal shocks chassis?
What is BMV and CVDs stand for?

You put motor and battery pack on the same side (left),
don't you worry there are more weight on the left side wheels than the right?

I don't see a motor plate in the picture, it's because of the picture angle?
If there is no plate, how did you manage to hold the motor and tranny with wires?

Is there a capacitor on the motor? 104 or 103?
I put 3 104 capacitors on my 75T, is it too much?

I asked the length of the 3mm wire (packed in a bundle), the guy who sell it on the internet here only know it weight about a pound, a bundle cost about US6.00. Is it the same thing in the state? Do you know the length?

Sorry for asking so many questions.
Thanx!

The motor was bolted directly to the stampede transmission...no need for a plate.

BMV2 = Blue Meanie Version 2
CVD = Constant Velocity Drive (axles)

I dont really ever use capacitors on these crawler motors. I dont experience much glitching with the higher turn motors, but it doesnt hurt to have the caps installed.

Not sure about the length of the wires....I'd guess about 30-40cm.

A torsion chassis does take some getting used to when you switch from a sprung chassis. With torsion, a lot of times, your tire will float over a hole as opposed to dropping in like with springs. Also, without shocks and links in the way, you can get quite a bit of steering angle before your tires contact the suspension. Also, with the BMV2, your truck will be quite a bit lighter than with a sprung chassis.

I'm sorry I didn't notice your post,
thank you very much for the info.

I'm sorry I meant tranny, I don't see a plate for tranny on your BMV2?

As you recommended, I got a set of Traxxas E-Maxx shocks but facing a problem, when turning to the extreme angle, my Proline moab 2.2 tires will scratch suspension a bit, even I switch the shocks to inside of the chassis,is that OK?
Thanx!

There's a center plate that the transmission bolts to. You can see it in the first picture in my buildup thread. The piano wires run through the plate.

Yeah, it's ok to have the wheels touch the suspension. Not optimal, but acceptable. If you can set the shocks inboard on the chassis to keep the tires from hitting them, then that should be good.

Thank you JeremyH,

Forgot to ask, I got 3mm stainless steel wires (not piano wires),
are they OK to build BMV2 chassis?
Thanx!

I'm not sure....I always used the piano wire. The stainless might not be as flexible, but you might as well give it a shot!

BTW, since it seems as if you have decided on the BMV style chassis, you wont be needing those shocks! I too seem to change my mind quite a bit on my setup...

Well, I need to find the collars and delrin plate first,
I don't even know how collars call here,
I'd probably print out the picture shown in sweli posted link then ask local hardware store.

Which truck you consider to change the setup? May I ask why?
Thanx!

I am always fiddling with the setups on my truck. I liked the BMV!

Thank you JeremyH,

About the collars, can I place them on the outside of the plate (red circle)?
Thanx!
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/4856/plate.jpg